3000w inverter wiring

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Hi all,

Picked up a 3000w inverter to charge chainsaw and cook with induction stove/charge my power bank. I want to mount it in the rear of the truck but my dual battery is under the hood. What size cables do I need and since I know they will be massive, how will I run them to connect to battery? The grommets in the firewall do not like big night for 2 massive cables.
 
Thanks both,

For routing the wires, where would I pass through?

Neverfinis, what type of house battery did you opt for?
 
I ran my 6 AWG (welding wire: fine strand, very flexible but very thick insulation) inside the lower trim to the rubber firewall plug on the front passenger firewall. My starting battery is on the passenger side due to LS Swap.

I am using a LiTime 100Ah with bluetooth, and heating. It is limited to100 Amp constant current from its internal BMS. You would need multiple to meet the needs of a 3000 watt inverter.

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LiTime does make a battery with 2560W continuous output but still not enough for a 3000 watt inverter. Need two.
 
I think there's a list of concerns here that goes beyond wire gauge.

Is it a pure sine wave inverter? Because an induction stove might not be happy with a modified sine wave.

Got a high output alternator?

What's the longest time you plan on using the stove + accessories? (You need to calculate Amp-hours).

Where will you be cooking? On the tailgate? You're going to need to have the engine running and you'll be breathing exhaust fumes.
 
My understanding is the minimum battery size for a 3000w inverter would be around the 300ah mark.
 
Don't forget about voltage drop when sizing the cables. 12V systems see significant VD due to the low voltage. You can also use parallel conductors. Just make sure you get them as close to the same length as possible.
 
Hi all,

Picked up a 3000w inverter to charge chainsaw and cook with induction stove/charge my power bank. I want to mount it in the rear of the truck but my dual battery is under the hood. What size cables do I need and since I know they will be massive, how will I run them to connect to battery? The grommets in the firewall do not like big night for 2 massive cables.
If you are looking into 120v high wattage power use in the 80, it sounds like it’s time to relocate your auxiliary battery to the cargo area. I did this 5 or so years ago and no regrets. LiFePo4 battery stays healthy in the cab. DC to DC charging makes wiring easy. Your engine bay gets uncluttered and you can repurpose your auxiliary battery box as a spare parts or fluids holder. I’ve got a 2000w inverter a couple feet away from my battery so voltage drop and cable size is optimal.
 
If you are looking into 120v high wattage power use in the 80, it sounds like it’s time to relocate your auxiliary battery to the cargo area. I did this 5 or so years ago and no regrets. LiFePo4 battery stays healthy in the cab. DC to DC charging makes wiring easy. Your engine bay gets uncluttered and you can repurpose your auxiliary battery box as a spare parts or fluids holder. I’ve got a 2000w inverter a couple feet away from my battery so voltage drop and cable size is optimal.
Just wondering how DC to DC charging makes wiring easy? Since these are older charging system not like new cars, is a DC to DC charger necessary?
 
I love my DC to DC charger.

Wiring was dead simple..one 6 AWG to the front battery (50 Amp fuse on both ends).

It sends close to 40 amps to the house battery while driving. My DC to DC also has solar input, which I still need to set up.

I have a LS engine, with a 105 amp GM alternator...
 
As mentioned above there are other concerns with what you are trying to do and I recommend running some tests before you start buying materials and installing them. Along with the list of issues to account for above I'll throw out that voltage drop will impact 12v dc more than 120v ac so you may also want to consider making your front-to-back run post inverter provided everything else is sorted and the house battery ends up in the front.
 
I ran my 6 AWG (welding wire: fine strand, very flexible but very thick insulation) inside the lower trim to the rubber firewall plug on the front passenger firewall. My starting battery is on the passenger side due to LS Swap.

I am using a LiTime 100Ah with bluetooth, and heating. It is limited to100 Amp constant current from its internal BMS. You would need multiple to meet the needs of a 3000 watt inverter.

View attachment 3899343
So your DC to DC charger can charge the Lipo4?
I’m looking at doing something similar as I have to change the location of my dual battery due to turbo. I have 100w solar and 65qt fridge, ect. I like the fact of not having to run large gauge cable, but doing the switch looks like it’s going to be expensive.

Edit, did more research in the forums and understand it better now.
 
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So your DC to DC charger can charge the Lipo4?
I’m looking at doing something similar as I have to change the location of my dual battery due to turbo. I have 100w solar and 65qt fridge, ect. I like the fact of not having to run large gauge cable, but doing the switch looks like it’s going to be expensive.

Edit, did more research in the forums and understand it better now.

Yes, my DC to DC charger can charge my Lipo4. It can also charge the starting battery if needed. This is why my 6 AWG line to the starting battery is fused on both ends, because current can be sent both ways.
 
Just wondering how DC to DC charging makes wiring easy? Since these are older charging system not like new cars, is a DC to DC charger necessary?
The wiring is easy in that you aren’t needing to run multiple large gauge cable thru the engine bay safely and securely. To me that was the biggest hassle. Instead you run an input cable from the start battery + to DC-DC , output cable from DC-DC to aux battery + and common ground. These cables are smaller since the DC to DC limits the current to a set 15-100 amps depending on the model. All together it’s just much easier of an install imo.

A DC to DC is necessary if you plan to use a lithium aux battery. They are designed around our charging system of an alternator and start battery and many good DC-DCs can work with newer smart alternators.
 
Instead of spending money on long thick cables use the funds for a bigger battery close to where the inverter will be. Charge it with a dc-dc charger.

The saw charger will use very little power over a long duration, it's the induction cooktop that will be the real load.

I'd run some calculations to see how much energy this cooktop will draw if you will be using it for a while. Like others have said it would be a drag to have to run the engine while cooking if the battery can't keep up.
 
Just another view on this - in my experience a DC-DC charger is not strictly necessary to connect an additional battery. I've connected a 100ah LiFePo4 (this one here) directly in parallel to the stock 12V system of a car ( a 2016 BMW X5). Then with thick short wires (something like 0 AWG, 1ft) connected to the Lifepo battery is a 2kw cont / 4kw peak inverter. I've had this setup now for 2 years / 50k miles, and it works really well. I can both operate fairly heavy tools via the inverter (air compressor, angle grinders, heat guns, full size vacuum cleaners, etc), as well as use it in the car for very extended periods of time to power lower smaller loads (Starlink, laptop, heating blank for winter camping, etc). The majority of the power for the inverter is coming from the lifepo, but the stock battery is helping some.
Another side benefit is that the lifepo battery also reduces strain on the stock battery e.g. when starting the engine etc.

The BMS of at least this particular Lifepo4 battery seems to be both very solid as well as forgiving. It allows for up to 150A charge / discharge for limited time (maybe < 1min), and cuts out at overvoltage / undervoltage etc. Also this is probably obvious - but these Lifepo batteries are galaxies better at providing continuous power to say an inverter than the lead/acid dinosaurs. They keep voltage much better and you can draw power out of it for much longer.

I don't think the wire gauge connecting the two battery systems is safety critical as long as the wire is long enough - which it will be if you connect a rear lifepo to a front stock battery/alternator. This is because if the voltage drop over the wire is too large, the charging current will automatically drop as well, limiting the total heat transferred into the wire to reasonable levels. E.g. empirically I'm observing not more than 50A charging current on the lifepo if the voltage is not exceeding 13V. With say a 14V voltage from the alternator, you could have a 1V voltage drop from using 10ft of 10AWG wire and would be putting 50W of heat into the wire - not exactly ideal but also not so much that it would melt the wire. This is probably a worst case scenario heat wise - if you use even thinner wires, the main thing happening is that charging rate will be very low. If you use thicker wires, charging will be faster and you will have fewer losses.

Main disadvantage of connecting directly are:
- need to be careful not to empty the starter battery
- if you use this a lot in freezing / deep freezing conditions, may damage the lifepo battery due to charging it at too low temperatures
- I don't know if the older alternator designs in the 80 series could have overload issues if too much charging current is drawn into the lifepo battery? On modern cars the alternators seem to be smart and current limited, not sure how it's in the older ones.
 
I don't think the wire gauge connecting the two battery systems is safety critical as long as the wire is long enough
The wire gauge should be sized to safely handle a short-circuit condition based on the available current. If you rely on undersized wire as a current limiting device, you're asking for trouble. Big trouble.
 
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