3 Link Questions

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I have been reading up on 3 links since I will be doing one soon and I couldn't find an answer to my questions. I will be using the exisitng spring set up for now (coilovers not in budget).

1. How far forward can I move my axle without lengthening the driveshaft?
2. If I move the axle forward, will the top spring perch have to move as well to keep it plumb so the springs function properly?
3. Is it even necessary to move the axle forward when doing a 3 link? Note: this rig is a rock toy.


I expect I am gonna hear to wait until coilovers are in the budget, re-tube the driveshaft, and move it forward a few inches. :D
 
My front axle moved forward 3/4" and required new drive shaft, but oddly enough, can't see much change in the perch alignment.

If limited to coil springs, don't see what the advantage of 3 link really is, and, since COs are inevitable, seems like a lot of work to reposition everything for nominal gain.

Do you have plans to lower when/if going to coil overs?
 
If limited to coil springs, don't see what the advantage of 3 link really is, and, since COs are inevitable, seems like a lot of work to reposition everything for nominal gain.

See the pics below, all are coil sprung and have a huge (flex) advantage over
a stock arm set up. This much gain should tie me over until I get some CO's.

Do you have plans to lower when/if going to coil overs?

Not sure what you mean (maybe it's the beer :D) Lower the lift?
3link2.webp
front PS flex.webp
523977_372158672819731_100000768051.webp
 
What about mine?!
image-4074472828.webp
 
See the pics below, all are coil sprung and have a huge (flex) advantage over
a stock arm set up. This much gain should tie me over until I get some CO's.



Not sure what you mean (maybe it's the beer :D) Lower the lift?

Solong as you can handle it on the road.
 
What about mine?!

I was thinking about yours but the three I posted were the first to show up in my "search".

So long as you can handle it on the road.

Why do you say that? Most of what I read is how well they handle on the road (when done right). As stated above, my rig is just a rock toy and is only driven onroad on the way to the trail.

How does the coil remain seated on the depicted rigs?

Good question, I am curious as well.

You would definitely need limit straps whether you had CO's or not

Yes, I figured these would be needed.
 
For those on here that have 3 Linked, how far forward did you move the front axle?
 
You can maybe move your axle foreward 3/4-1" without mods but be careful with how much travel you have so it Wont pop out. Also make sure you have limit straps and make bump stops.you can make coil retainers, it's pretty easy you can just weld a piece of 1/2" wide steel plate to the center of the lower cool mount, heat it up and bend it around the coil and weld it on the base of the coil bucket.
 
For those on here that have 3 Linked, how far forward did you move the front axle?

when i put the d60 in the front of mine, i moved it forward ~3". the coils are basically centered on the housing just like the stock setup and i have no problems with the coils. they seem to handle that angle just fine.

i didnt have to fool with my drive shaft but the d60 pinion is longer than the stock front pinion
 
I dont have a three link but I have moved my axle forward about 3/4 of an inch to help line the springs back up again because of the 6 + inches of lift

I do not have any issues with my drive shaft
 
Why do you say that? Most of what I read is how well they handle on the road (when done right). As stated above, my rig is just a rock toy and is only driven onroad on the way to the trail.

If your driving and braking in a straight line - they are fine. But they definitely dont handle very well on the road. If its just for off road use. And you can put up with it driving to and from its fine. But 3 links are a pig on road, 5 links are better but still very swirly. I'd be driving 1 first before you chop and modify.
 
Not true at all, a 3 link can drive great down the highway. It just depends on how it is done. The part most people don't do when they 3 link is a sway bar because they are doing it for off road, but a 3 link with the right geometry and a sway bar will drive just as good as a stock 80.

TheBigBoy said:
If your driving and braking in a straight line - they are fine. But they definitely dont handle very well on the road. If its just for off road use. And you can put up with it driving to and from its fine. But 3 links are a pig on road, 5 links are better but still very swirly. I'd be driving 1 first before you chop and modify.
 
Not true at all, a 3 link can drive great down the highway. It just depends on how it is done. The part most people don't do when they 3 link is a sway bar because they are doing it for off road, but a 3 link with the right geometry and a sway bar will drive just as good as a stock 80.

Never in a million years. What suspension are we talking though when you say 3 link. The op is talking about a tower type 3 link.

3 link
Y link
X link
4 link
5 link
Radius arm
Etc
 
I am talking about a 3 link. 2 long lower links mounted low on the axle, and frame, the third like with sufficient separation at the axle to prevent wrap as well as control pinion angle and enough separation at the frame to control dive and squat. Lower links splayed at the axle end. Engineered properly using a link calculator and with the right spring rates, coupled with an anti sway bar, a proper 3 link will drive just as well as the 80 stock arms.

Now if you are talking about some hillbilly 3 link done by Joe Bob using tractor 3 point hitch links or backyard fabricator that just welds things where he thinks the "oughta go" then yes I agree with you. But a properly done link suspensions has no draw backs but cost.

TheBigBoy said:
Never in a million years. What suspension are we talking though when you say 3 link. The op is talking about a tower type 3 link.

3 link
Y link
X link
4 link
5 link
Radius arm
Etc
 
There are hundreds if not thousands of three linked Jeeps running around. When done properly there are absolutely no issues.
 
I have to disagree with you Scott. You will never ever get it to drive as good as a stock 80. I've built all of the above except the x link. I built mine after shawn Jackson posted his. Seperation, all link lengths and number/geometry where done correctly.

The tower type like in those pics. During straight line braking, the left side dives down. Why, because the tower controlling axle wrap is further from the left. So I built another with the tower dead centre. This was fine during straight line braking. But any cornering or camber in the road and it was back to square 1. I built a 5 link (you guys call it 4 link with panhard) this controlled the braking issues. Even with tuning coils/shocks/sway bars it still floats and is squirly. I found you need to have some binding to control the amount of weight and leverage. Not to mention it flogs out bushes and joints real quick. And why all the companies here have ditched it (calbah, overkill etc).

A y link set up correctly is very good and even in regards to onroad Offroad. But the absolute best by far is flipped (and modified) radius arms. It's only just behind factory handling. And gets almost the same travel as 3/5 link. I'm maxing out 14" shocks. Even running brand new bushes.
 
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