I have been looking into a 3-link up front ever since my axle swap. For the same reasons you guys want to get rid of the 80 radius arm setup. The D2 LR front arms suck just as bad as the 80 ones, and I want something new. Im either thinking of going with a 3-link almost identical to Action Jacksons but I am worried about road manners and the possibility of the whole single point of failure thing. Which is important for a truck that sees its fair amount of 75mph highway driving. The other thing i am thinking besides a 3-link are custom arms (yes i already have ones to fix castor, but no help with flex) which use 3-johnny joints instead of bushings. I sont know about an 80, but on a D2 you can fit a johnny joint inside all 3 stock mounting holes for the radius arms. I did search and read up alot on here, but couldnt find many people who have actually 3-linked the front of their 80, or done a set of heimed/spherical/johnny jointed radius arms. If you have dont either please post up some pics and feedback. Thanks.
3-link ala Action Jackson (12 Viewers)
- Thread starter Discyota
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Not enough people wheel their 80's in places that the stock control arm setup will hold them back.
I personally am held back by money and time and a second vehicle or I would have 3-linked my 80 months ago.
I have thought of doing a Y-link setup as it seemed to work very well on the Suzuki I saw at UREs today, but am still not sure. Action Jackson's setup is a VERY good one, although I would have added a truss to the axle that integrates into his top link, and appears to be very streetable for him.
A temp. solution could be to remove the front bolt from one side's control arm to create a "poor-man's 3-link". It works very well in getting all you can out of a 12" shock, and is easily replaced for street use.
I personally am held back by money and time and a second vehicle or I would have 3-linked my 80 months ago.
I have thought of doing a Y-link setup as it seemed to work very well on the Suzuki I saw at UREs today, but am still not sure. Action Jackson's setup is a VERY good one, although I would have added a truss to the axle that integrates into his top link, and appears to be very streetable for him.
A temp. solution could be to remove the front bolt from one side's control arm to create a "poor-man's 3-link". It works very well in getting all you can out of a 12" shock, and is easily replaced for street use.
Cruiser Jimmy
Moderator
you might search through the hardcore section.
Waggoner5
SILVER Star
On an 80, the front arms are not really a limiting factor but more a stability factor. This may not be relative in the D80 becuase of weight difference. The 80 I have ridden in or watched videos of have worked much better with a 3 link but at the cost of stability. The 80s are really heavy and its high sprung weight needs to be held down in my opinion. My trucks aren't stock and I wheel them pretty hard, and so far I can't see where an even really trick 3 or 4 link would take me where I could not go with the radius arms. I am running big tires and lighter weight though.
Well I'm in a minority most likely but I'll put in my opinion since it's free 
I currently run the "original" Outback AWR front control arms and also have modified the front bushing mounts to use Toyota camber bolts to allow me to adjust caster. And I have Slee's 6" springs with 1.5" alum spacers. I've run this now for nearly a year with 37's and have about 20K miles, mostly highway of course. I've also tested the front end on numerous trails and with a forklift. I have the OME L-shocks (N73L) and the front end as it is now isn't capable of utilizing the full 12" or so of that shock's useable travel. The front end just experiences too much binding in those six bushings and mounts.
Now I completely agree that what you get is stability and maybe a more balanced ride like this. But I'm definitely an "experiential" learner so this is what I'm doing. I'm using the Toyota OEM rubber bushings from the rear lower control arms for the frame ends of the links and using the same Johnny Joints that Shawn used for the axle end. I'm using Bilstein 7100 14" travel shocks at all four corners. I have not decided whether or not I'll keep a front swaybar but will try to incorporate it with disconnects like I have now.
I do a crap load of road miles living in southern CA so I'll find out in a big hurry how bad the road manners of this setup are. Then Gary and George can say the told me so...
I currently run the "original" Outback AWR front control arms and also have modified the front bushing mounts to use Toyota camber bolts to allow me to adjust caster. And I have Slee's 6" springs with 1.5" alum spacers. I've run this now for nearly a year with 37's and have about 20K miles, mostly highway of course. I've also tested the front end on numerous trails and with a forklift. I have the OME L-shocks (N73L) and the front end as it is now isn't capable of utilizing the full 12" or so of that shock's useable travel. The front end just experiences too much binding in those six bushings and mounts.
Now I completely agree that what you get is stability and maybe a more balanced ride like this. But I'm definitely an "experiential" learner so this is what I'm doing. I'm using the Toyota OEM rubber bushings from the rear lower control arms for the frame ends of the links and using the same Johnny Joints that Shawn used for the axle end. I'm using Bilstein 7100 14" travel shocks at all four corners. I have not decided whether or not I'll keep a front swaybar but will try to incorporate it with disconnects like I have now.
I do a crap load of road miles living in southern CA so I'll find out in a big hurry how bad the road manners of this setup are. Then Gary and George can say the told me so...
So clown, are you going 3-link too, or are you modifying the radius arm setup?
But your opinions are pretty well thought out as well.
I'd think that if Discyota is serious enough to cross over and swap in 80 axles, that he'd possibly be well served by a similiar setup. Guess it depends on the entire use of the truck (wait, can we call a disco a truck
)... if it's main goal is rock, then I'd say go for it. If it was mainly hwy, then he'd prob still have the full discoball setup like a 70's disco playing the hustle.
Waggoner5
SILVER Star
It does completely depend on what you do with your truck I guess. Everyone would have a different opinion on this and I don't think that anyones is wrong, just different. Shawns system seems to be working great and he did do a great job, and I see that on a ramp removing 1 bolt helps a bunch as does the 3 or 4 link modification, but I haven't seen anyone 3 linked on a trail where it made him go and me not. My 62 is modified to the end using leaf springs and it will run higher up the ramp than my old 80, but on the trail the 80s go everywhere I go with smaller tires and less modifications, with less drama. I guess my point is, and has always been in these 3 link discussions, that the 80 will always be to big, and too heavy to be a serious rock crawler and given that, the stock design suspension is more capable than most of us will take advantage of anyway. I would like someone who has done the 3-4 link setup to wheel with a group of 80s and document the differences, then I may change my opinion, until then I will leave my stock bushed Slee arms intact.
G
G
Gary,
agree with what you have said,
and 14" front shocks are to long for an 80, but will work in the rear.
Standard arms and 10" stroke are the most you will use, if set up to use it all, as steering arm will bind up tie rods as well, and if you go more, and/or to much height, the arm angle created on uphills prevents the suspension from compressing, and forces the arm intoi the vehicle, the same thing happens on steep downhills where the wheel cant make up its mind to let the suspension compress, or the car to pivot over the wheel, making for an ugly upside down incedent.
for 6" lift, turning the arms upside down on the housing works well, to keep the arms horizontal, but to much droop will still stop the suspension compressing on a steep downhill against a ledge.
a 14" rear shock is the max you will use with standard arms and bushes, and changing bushes out will allow the same flex more easily.
We are currently working on a long arm a frame rear kit to go with our Fox shock install kit to prevent bush wear from the extra flex, bit like below.
agree with what you have said,
and 14" front shocks are to long for an 80, but will work in the rear.
Standard arms and 10" stroke are the most you will use, if set up to use it all, as steering arm will bind up tie rods as well, and if you go more, and/or to much height, the arm angle created on uphills prevents the suspension from compressing, and forces the arm intoi the vehicle, the same thing happens on steep downhills where the wheel cant make up its mind to let the suspension compress, or the car to pivot over the wheel, making for an ugly upside down incedent.
for 6" lift, turning the arms upside down on the housing works well, to keep the arms horizontal, but to much droop will still stop the suspension compressing on a steep downhill against a ledge.
a 14" rear shock is the max you will use with standard arms and bushes, and changing bushes out will allow the same flex more easily.
We are currently working on a long arm a frame rear kit to go with our Fox shock install kit to prevent bush wear from the extra flex, bit like below.
Waggoner5
SILVER Star
Thats a really nice setup. Keep us posted on it.
G
G
Darren, that only assumes that the front arms stay the same length and use the same mounts since by the very nature of using different length arms and different mounts it will behave differently. Also, it assumes you'd keep the steering as is, which I won't, at least in my attempt.
But I do appreciate the reasons you identify as problems associated with attempting a "bolt on" 3-link or most of the other changes to front suspension.
But I do appreciate the reasons you identify as problems associated with attempting a "bolt on" 3-link or most of the other changes to front suspension.
What changes are you planning for the steering Mike?
Something along the lines of the OTT steering arm or a combination attached to the existing lower steering arm along the lines the Aussie's have done and raising the axle panhard mount to keep both steering rod and panhard as close to parallel as possible. I picked up a set of knuckle housings, pinion mounts and steering arms to experiment with and have thought about contacting Luke Porter at 4x4Labs to get his assistance in getting the steering dialed in to accomodate the 3-link w/panhard. This seems to take one directly to considering hydro-assist steering pretty quickly though to be honest as it is not too fun with the 37's now.
Some pics for ideas...
Some pics for ideas...
Last edited:
I'm assuming you're planning to mount the link arms under the tie-rod.
Waggoner5
SILVER Star
Where did the arms on the left come from? I need some of those.
G
G
Here is a shot of some knuckle steer arms that i found up in iron pig's shop. The owner of this pig is putting a supercharged V8 Toyota motor and 80 axles under it. I asked him where he got the arms and he told me, i just forgot...i'll search and post back.
those are the OTT ones.
I hate not having an unlimited budget for my 80, I want to go 3-link so horribly bad after every single post about them.
you are correct Clown, they are from OTT. The owner of the one's in my picture said they are no longer making them.
