3" lift or lower, and 37's or bigger?

Brunt Force Trauma · Dec 17, 2012

Is anyone running this combo? Impressions? Issues?

Pictures would be highly appreciated.

Delancy · Dec 17, 2012

I wish.

In retrospect, 3" lift with 37s on 17" wheels, cutting anything that got in the way would've been a better choice for me.

No help, I realize.

TheBigBoy · Dec 17, 2012

I will never understand this

.

devildogcruiser25 · Dec 17, 2012

I'm running OME J lift, I think it's around 3" and just put on 37"s. I plan on doing 30 mm spacers and a 1" body lift. Body lift only if needed.

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warpdriv · Dec 17, 2012

devildogcruiser25 said:
I'm running OME J lift, I think it's around 3" and just put on 37"s. I plan on doing 30 mm spacers and a 1" body lift. Body lift only if needed.

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How bad are you scraping? Ive been thinking about going from 6" to 4" lift.

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devildogcruiser25 · Dec 17, 2012

warpdriv said:
How bad are you scraping? Ive been thinking about going from 6" to 4" lift.

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At full stuff I rub the rear flares, but not bad. Front I rub a little on full turn, but it's at the flare. Other than that I can't give honest evaluation as I haven't had it offroad yet. If you are flare-less I think you will be fine with 4". If it rubs do spacers or a body lift IMO.

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kidglove13 · Dec 17, 2012

I am contemplateing going down to 4 inch from 6 but here on the east coast and the stuff I wheel in I find I really need the belly clearance, I have run 4 inch and 37's and kept getting hung up underneath.

I would like to run 40's on 3 inches of lift but that would require extensive surgery I think

I know that wvlx450, I think that is his name runs about 3inches of lift and 40 inch tires, but he is also running 1 tons as well.

That is the thing I would love to lower center of gravity and run big tires but then you need to upgrade all kinds of other things

devildogcruiser25 · Dec 17, 2012

Wheel stuff pic. You can see on the rear part of the flare where it rubs.

JOHNWOHN · Dec 17, 2012

Here you go. I need to do some trimming on the rear to get more uptravel but the tires do tuck pretty nice. The front doesnt rub at all (I have left the swaybar on).

jwdlm · Dec 17, 2012

TheBigBoy said:
I will never understand this .

I'm curious as to why? Just asking because getting the viewpoint from all sides is the best part of these forums and helps us make more informed choices.
Thanks!
John

TheBigBoy · Dec 17, 2012

It's definitely good to get views from the other side of the globe. It just doesn't make sense. The whole idea of a 4x4 is to have usable suspension stroke. To not lift a wheel while driving through the terrain. 2" and 37's is seriously restricting any USEABLE travel. Sure you will have a larger footprint and grip when aired down. Eg.. 2" coils from static can compress 6" during Sus stroke. The tyre binds up at 2" = 4" of travel wasted. A 2" coil leaves its perches (no further downward force) at 3" from static height. Example only.

The more your tyre can tuck. The less it will lean out during articulation (sits flatter). 2"/37 = 5" of travel. 2"/33's= 9" of travel. I would go 6" lift with 37's. even then with some trimming. Some people then run long shocks so the tyre has a measurable 9" of travel. But that's not usable travel, as its measured by where the coil leaves the perch.

I know the argument will be about lockers. The simple fact is a tuned suspension system with 2"/33's/lockers. Will go further and easier than 2"/37's/lockers.

Tools R Us · Dec 17, 2012

37"s on a stock rig. He later put an OME heavy w/ L shocks setup. Took a bit of tuning, but it wheels very well. If I were to do mine now, would likely go with heavy rear, J front with L's, would be slightly lower than the J's w/ front spacer that I have now, but would have the same travel.

Tools R Us · Dec 17, 2012

devildogcruiser25 said:
At full stuff I rub the rear flares, but not bad. ...

Just took a little nip to the rear of the flares to make mine clear.

Sam I Am · Dec 17, 2012

I was running j's front and heavy's rear with l's all around and 2 inch bump stop extensions. Took just a little trimming of the rear flares. Tucked very nicely. Also the front would rub on the rear most lower section of the metal wheel well liner. Could be fixed with a BFH. Would also need to trim the front bumper endcaps if you were still running the factory front bumper. All said and done maybe 1/2 hour with a angle grinder and cutoff wheel. Would need a 3.5-4.0 backspacing on the wheels though. I had the re-centered hummer H1 wheels with hummer 37's . Too heavy, even with 4.88's.