Builds 3 days and 3300 miles later (1 Viewer)

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This picture shows where the valence welds were on my bed. Looks like there was one in each of the valleys.
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About an hour on the lpb tonight.

Drug out the old 78 box and torched off a few remaining bolts on the rear valance. After I chipped away the undercoating and got the right angle of light, I saw the spot welds. Drilled all of them out and the valance popped right out. Actually in really good condition, a little tune up on 1 end that will take about 5 minutes, but very nice.

Didn't have time tonight to work on the other box, but hoping to maybe take Thursday off and get a lot done...including swapping out those valance's.

oh....and did I mention.....that 78 box is junk.......

Matt
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BTW the FJ60 steering wheel is 16" in diameter


Thanks for the info, allthough I just don't think it's going to work for me.

16" vs 17" dia. I don't think it will be enough. I will probably end up having to go with an aftermarket wheel so I can use an adapter...which will give me that additional 2".


Thanks, Matt
 
Matt,

I have nothing to add to this thread. Just wanted to say how awesome it was to have another one of your build threads to drool over and get inspired with. You didn't do a build thread on your 40 resto did you? Just slow down or get a 55 please. :grinpimp:

- Chase
 
a repost .but heres an idea ,my wheel ,grant 12 or 13 inch .can't remember .with 2 inch adapter .and an aftermarket toyota logo horn button ..was the only toy logo i could find . can't wait to see the finished product .great build .:cheers: Jake

Thanks for the info, allthough I just don't think it's going to work for me.

16" vs 17" dia. I don't think it will be enough. I will probably end up having to go with an aftermarket wheel so I can use an adapter...which will give me that additional 2".


Thanks, Matt
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a repost .but heres an idea ,my wheel ,grant 12 or 13 inch .can't remember .with 2 inch adapter .and an aftermarket toyota logo horn button ..was the only toy logo i could find . can't wait to see the finished product .great build .:cheers: Jake



I kinda like it......what is the dish on it? Most of Grant's are around 3 1/2", but some are flat.

Thanks, Matt
 
I kinda like this one from Grant. Comes in 13 1/2" and 14 3/4" dia., both have a 3 1/2" dish. Very simple.....I wish the spokes weren't chrome, either satin or a matte black.

Matt
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I kinda like this one from Grant. Comes in 13 1/2" and 14 3/4" dia., both have a 3 1/2" dish. Very simple.....I wish the spokes weren't chrome, either satin or a matte black.

Matt

Have those little details ever stopped you before? I do believe that if that is what you want, (And I think it looks somewhat era specific.) then you can make it happen.

Just keep posting pics every day or so, so that I can feel motivated at work. :)
 
I kinda like this one from Grant. Comes in 13 1/2" and 14 3/4" dia., both have a 3 1/2" dish. Very simple.....I wish the spokes weren't chrome, either satin or a matte black.

Matt

Grant "GRT-332"

Specs:
Grip Material: Foam
Grip Color: Black
Spoke Material: Steel
Spoke Color: Black
Spoke Quantity: 3
Diameter (in): 14.750 in.
Dish (in): 4.000 in.
Horn Button Included: Yes
Installation Kit Required: Yes
Installation Kit Included: No
Quantity: Sold individually.
Notes: This is a Winston Cup Style Performance series wheel, patterned after Daytona stock car steering wheels.
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..was the only toy logo i could find .

There is a member of Green Country Cruisers (Oklahoma) that can make a "domed" decal of just about anything...he's done many Cruiser specific ones...I think a domed TEQ sticker would be perfect for that wheel.
 
Got about 1.5 on the lpb tonight.....pretty much just removed the other valance.

This one was a little more of a pain in the ass to remove. The spot welds were visable from the bottom, and they had a very large spot to them on the top. So, instead of drilling massive holes that I would need to fill and since the rear valance on this one was bent up I went a different direction.

I cut the valance along the bottom first so I could see just the flat piece that was left spot welded to the bottom. Then I used the grinder and ground down in the area where the spot weld would be, right through the old valance. Once I hit the box below that I stopped. Spot welds were pretty much gone since I was grinding such a large area. When I was all done, no holes.

Taking tomorrow off, brought home the ingersoll rand compressor ready for some blasting tomorrow....have it plugged in tonight...since it so fricking cold :rolleyes:

Hope to get the rear cleaned up and that valance welded in along with a ton of other stuff. Maybe even shoot a little paint on front bibs, windshield frames and side aprons.

Matt
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Grant "GRT-332"

Specs:
Grip Material: Foam
Grip Color: Black
Spoke Material: Steel
Spoke Color: Black
Spoke Quantity: 3
Diameter (in): 14.750 in.
Dish (in): 4.000 in.
Horn Button Included: Yes
Installation Kit Required: Yes
Installation Kit Included: No
Quantity: Sold individually.
Notes: This is a Winston Cup Style Performance series wheel, patterned after Daytona stock car steering wheels.


Actually kinda like that one, nothing to flashy.

I talked to grant today, told me there adapter kit # 3593 would add about an inch to the column. The dish on this wheel is 4", I think the stock wheel is about 3 1/2", so I gain about a 1/2" there. Total, moves the wheel about a 1.5" towards me. What should also help is that the wheel is 2" smaller in dia. Hoping that is enough room.....should be.

Thanks, Matt
 
Got about 8 hours on the lpb today....not a ton of pics. Spent most of my time outside bundled up sandblasting for about 6 hours sandblasting and trying to keep warm. So the camera didn't come out much. Also had to run into work later in the day, so my lpb day got cut a little short.

Took several pics of a few parts hanging up in the booth after blasting. You can see the front bib and the lower piece welded back together. I was able to blast everything clean and weld it back up. Windshield frame and other parts haning up, blasted up real nice. There are several other small parts that I blasted, but they are going to be painted black so there not hung up. Also, don't have enough room any way.

I blasted the rear valance I got that bolted into the stock holes. Everything lines up, but have to do a little welding of the spot weld holes that I drilled out and drill some new ones. The 78 bed must have carried back on the floor another 1/2" or so because some of the spot welds holes on the valance are missing the mark on the new bed. Not all, but some are half way onto the bed. Have to weld those holes up and drill a new one about a 1/2" further up to weld.....sorry..didn't get any pics.

Got all my parts epoxy primed in the booth tonight. In the morning I am going to shoot a little ureathane primer in a few areas to sand out where there was some very small rust pitting. Let it dry and sand it out...should only take a coat or 2.

Few parts showed up today from Cruiserdan, including that transfer case inner shift boot. So, bolted up the boot and got my floor mat back in. Sitting a little wrinkley since it's been drapped over a table for a couple weeks. Should straighten out in a few days.....still looks pretty sweet I think.

Have to work this weekend again, so not much is going to get done. Hoping to do a little sanding Saturday night and Sunday...possibly shoot some base/clear Monday or so. Get the windshield assembled and front bib back together next week and bolted back on.

On another note, made a phone call to a newer business about 2 hours away from me today......acid dipping. Guy charges approx. $90 bucks for about a part the size of a hood. Thinking: Hood, 2 doors, rear cab piece, upper roof and box. Thinking it's the way to go on the parts, especially the box...since that crap will get into and inside all the channels? Guy I know locally gave me the # and a friend of his has had some parts done by this guy. He said every spec of rust, paint, undercoat and seam sealer will be gone, just metal.....see how it works out?

Matt
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