ARCHIVE 2UZ-FE to H55F - Interest?

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As the saying goes, "if you have to ask" ...

Well, a new H55F plus the bellhousing kit from the Aussies is somewhere in the $5k range so it's never going to be a cheap option. The decision point is whether the incremental cost of the H151 and tcase is worth it in terms of better functional performance and/or easier integration. Just thinking of the clutch parts and associated hydraulics it would seem using the H151 is going to save some hassle. It's also nice to have an off-the-shelf production combo for serviceability, etc.
 
If you are going to all the trouble to get things setup, why not do a domestic manual like the NV4500? While it would take two adapters, one from tranny to engine and one from tranny to t-case, at least one of those is already made and highly used. The hard part would be fabricating/machining the ring (I am assuming) to adapt the 2UZ to the NV4500 bellhousing with the relevant clutch to power it.
 
If you are going to all the trouble to get things setup, why not do a domestic manual like the NV4500? While it would take two adapters, one from tranny to engine and one from tranny to t-case, at least one of those is already made and highly used. The hard part would be fabricating/machining the ring (I am assuming) to adapt the 2UZ to the NV4500 bellhousing with the relevant clutch to power it.

2UZ to GM is easy. All you need is a steel plate and you can bolt any GM transmission to it or a 1UZ or 3UZ.
NV4500 is definitely a better choice then H55f. Better ratios and the longer transmission puts the motor in a better position in the engine bay.

This is for a 3UZ/TH400 but the bolt pattern is the same for all GM stuff and UZ motors.

Lexus Toyota Chevy GM TH400/TH350/700R4 Transmission

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Hasn't that been the biggest hurdle in the past, the fact that the ECU/PCM must be modded to allow for the engine to run outside of the normal application and shutoff various items/sensors? @reevesci I thought you had looked into this at one point and your programmer/modder said that it would be a huge effort.


No I was looking at the 2UZ w/TRD SC to a HD A440F from WAT out of AU. Still an option for one of my projects.

I've been working on the 3UR-FE- SC/ AB60F to HF2A/V w/part time "cruise and connect" for the past 2 years... I'm about 45K invested right now. So far a "good write off " yearly. HA!

Gearing-- 1ST- 3.333:1, 2ND- 1.960:1, 3RD- 1.353:1, 4TH-1.000:1, 5TH- 0.728:1, 6TH- 0.588:1 REV- 3.061:1

If this monster ever comes to life... @beno will be brought in for all the OEM pieces and parts used and a complete package will come to market. BUT IT WON'T BE FOR THE FAINT OF HEART!

Jason
 
I've been working on the 3UR-FE- SC/ AB60F to HF2A/V w/part time "cruise and connect" for the past 2 years... I'm about 45K invested right now. So far a "good write off " yearly. HA!

Yikes! I've been meaning to take a look at that, but sure sounds like it's going to be a complex and expensive job. Sounds more appropriate for Icon customers than those of us building for folks out in the real world.
 
Yikes! I've been meaning to take a look at that, but sure sounds like it's going to be a complex and expensive job. Sounds more appropriate for Icon customers than those of us building for folks out in the real world.

Well 45K (to date) is the complete 2014 - 3UR-FE- SC with AB60F (with 13K miles-- Tundra was totaled outside of our home in WY and I picked it up from my local wrecking yard buddy) and a spare HF2A and a couple of other companies working on the custom wiring harness/code breaking/ secondary plug and play ECU, (Painless ex-electrical engineer working on this) and a custom machine shop in KY working on the adapters and shafts, linkage, crossmember/trans & engine mounts ( dims on frame for 40, 55, 60, 80 and 100 series) , CNC exhaust downleg tubes with proper bungs for O2, flow, etc..

Basically when this kit is done it will be able to pass smog and REF in CA... want this to be as close to a present OEM offering in the Tundra for a 11-50+ year old cruiser swap as possible. You can bypass and hack the 3UR-FE into anything but that's not my goal.

I hope this is finished in the next 12-18 months.
 
Well 45K (to date) is the complete 2014 - 3UR-FE- SC with AB60F (with 13K miles-- Tundra was totaled outside of our home in WY and I picked it up from my local wrecking yard buddy) and a spare HF2A and a couple of other companies working on the custom wiring harness/code breaking/ secondary plug and play ECU, (Painless ex-electrical engineer working on this) and a custom machine shop in KY working on the adapters and shafts, linkage, crossmember/trans & engine mounts ( dims on frame for 40, 55, 60, 80 and 100 series) , CNC exhaust downleg tubes with proper bungs for O2, flow, etc..

Basically when this kit is done it will be able to pass smog and REF in CA... want this to be as close to a present OEM offering in the Tundra for a 11-50+ year old cruiser swap as possible. You can bypass and hack the 3UR-FE into anything but that's not my goal.

I hope this is finished in the next 12-18 months.

Serious ambition here Jason. Solid. Good work.
 
Yikes! I've been meaning to take a look at that, but sure sounds like it's going to be a complex and expensive job. Sounds more appropriate for Icon customers than those of us building for folks out in the real world.

Doug, if you were to do this what would be needed from a ECU programming sense?

If someone could make a adapter (referencing Matt’s link), and already had a h55. What would the ECU wiring component look like from a cost/extent perspective?

After The SAS drive I’m starting to look at repower options. Since I have a h55 waiting to go in, if it (1/2/3uz) could bolt to the existing drive train with out relocating the trans crossmember would be a huge help. But the While thing doesn’t seem like it’s that crazy of an idea to make happen.

The hang up I see now would be the electrical side of things.
 
Doug, if you were to do this what would be needed from a ECU programming sense?

You can get an adapter from Dellow in Australia to bolt up the H55 so the mechanical part is pretty easy. I'll be looking into the ECU over the next month the or two, goal is to use the Toyota with minimal mods . I'll send you some info from Dellow and update the thread as I get in to the ECU.
 
You can get an adapter from Dellow in Australia to bolt up the H55 so the mechanical part is pretty easy. I'll be looking into the ECU over the next month the or two, goal is to use the Toyota with minimal mods . I'll send you some info from Dellow and update the thread as I get in to the ECU.

Nice, adapter prices look reasonable. Staying tuned for the electrical part.
 
There are theoretically bellhousings available from Dellow Conversions in Australia. I had very poor success in trying to get those guys to respond to emails or return phone calls. I pretty much gave up on it for the time being, the last time I talked to them they said summer (southern hemisphere) is not a good time to try and do special orders.

Back of the envelope calculations suggest it would take sales of roughly 100 bellhousings to make sense to invest in a tool for the casting so the prospects are dim for me or someone similar taking that risk.
 
I can get you anything you want to pay for.

Cool- im looking for a single japanese girl-25-35yrs old holding Toyota Mastermechanics certs and specializing in ecu design/reconfiguration. preferably phd electrical engineering who likes camping and has relatives in the Aichi prefecture with Toyota corporate connections/discounts. :)

And if her dad passed one of these Toyotas down to her on her 16th birthday that i can tool around in....

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Got this from them a year ago not sure if the price is the same?

Yep, same quote. I never had any success getting them to take an order though. Interesting way to do business.
 
I casually found this thread, wasn't really looking for it but thought I'd respond with my experience because I have a Dellow Conversion 1UZ/2UZ to H55F kit, I ordered it from them a number of years ago. The 1UZ engine swap is common there and quite popular with hot rodders, Dellow didn't advertise a 2UZ kit at the time. The bell housing bolt pattern is the same between the aluminum 1UZ and cast iron 2UZ so I shot them an email and asked if they would put a kit together for me.

I know it's easier to swap a domestic V8 into a Cruiser, there is good support for that decision and for many it makes sense. Since my F engine was seized and the numbers didn't match I knew I had to re-engine. I decided that I wanted a more modern fuel injected engine, eventually wanting to do a resto-mod vs. a restoration, ICON style but with as many off the shelf Toyota parts as possible. I didn't want a domestic V8 in my FJ40.

Transmission wise I bought a new H55F out of the US, they were readily available at the time for about $2500 - the H151F not so much. Most of those were overseas, in questionable used condition, and hard to find. For me the other consideration was the transfer case, it's easy to mate a split transfer case to a H55F and go from there. I even managed to luck out and solve my park brake problems by finding a split t-case OEM park brake conversion kit at Specter Off Road (obviously not a problem with the 60 Series).

I didn't have any trouble ordering from Dellow, a little time zone grief, late night calls perhaps, but that's about it. I sent them the measurements of my H55F input shaft, spline count etc., explained that it was going into a Land Cruiser. Even though the H151F is designed to sit behind the 2UZ, they had no concern over the H55F's ability to handle the 2UZ. They commonly sell kits to mate "doctored" high horsepower 1UZs to Toyota car transmissions without reliability issues.

The kit arrived in a pair of cardboard boxes covered in a million stamps, I don't doubt that they went out of their way to get it shipped to me which may be why they are reluctant to do one-off overseas orders. The aluminum bell housing and clutch kit components are of good quality and the kit was comprehensive (I think the clutch parts are Exedy). The only piece of the puzzle left for me to figure out is to properly size a hydraulic release bearing - the clutch slave cylinder mounts to the side of the bell housing and it interferes with the exhaust header. This was the only thing that went kind of sideways with the kit; they mistakenly machined the cut-out on the bell housing for the release fork on the "wrong" side, it's set up for a RHD. The boss for the slave cylinder is cast into the housing on both sides, so it's not really a big deal to swap it over, but a hydraulic release bearing would make it easier to route the exhaust anyway.

Engine/ECU wise I stuck with an older non-VVTi 2UZ (for simplicity's sake with the non-chipped ignition key) out of a wrecked 2005 Tundra with ~40K miles on it (confirmed through the Carfax with the VIN). I paid $500 for it which included the stock ECU, wire harness, A/C compressor, P/S, air box etc.

Unfortunately life kind of got in the way of my project. I ended up moving, our family needed a bigger house so I lost my shop. My stock '72 40 is sitting patiently in my "new" garage with all the parts in storage in boxes. I'm working on getting a shop built at my new house so I can get back to my project...
 
I will add a little of my own experience in this pursuit. I am now on my third attempt at putting the parts together to swap a manual 2uz into an FJ45. It will happen this time. The parts to build a manual 2uz either with a h55f or h151f are all available. The part that seems to have the least amount of support or availability is a manual ECU or work around for running it without the auto transmission. I had a manual 2uz ECU that cost me less than what some AU companies wanted to charge for a work around device to bypass the auto transmission in the US spec. versions. I had also purchased a device from a guy in Russia that would allow you to bypass or fool the ecu that was paired with an a343 transmission but it would not work with the a750f transmission. I am planning to try this bypass module this time around rather than try to locate another manual ECU. The guy that I bought the module from only sells through Xacebook and is listed in another thread on this forum somewhere. This is by far the cheapest way to go in regards to the ecu. It would be nice if someone locally would find a way to build a device to accomplish this.
 

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