2UZ FE oil change mishap. Just how tough are these engines? (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jun 5, 2023
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Location
Georgia
First thread. Hi folks.

My vehicle is a 2008 GX470 with 230,000 miles. It's recently acquired but I know the previous owners and have a good idea of the maintenance that's been done and the sort of use it's been subjected to (grocery getting, highway trips, etc. no offroading, no towing, barely any snow, etc)

That does it for the introduction for now. I'm creating this thread because we recently had an oil change mishap where the GX was idled for 90-120 seconds without oil (none in the pan, none in the filter). The engine was cold. The accelerator was never pressed. The "old" oil that had been drained was 20k mile synthetic that had 5k miles (still looked new).

I'm inviting speculation, advice, comparative stories, etc. I'm sure there's damage done, and that it's probably not immediately quantifiable. If nothing else I can at least document if any issues pop up, if oil consumption starts, etc.

What I've observed since the incident with 60 (non highway) miles driven:

I don't believe the engine is ticking any louder than it was previously, and neither does the previous owner. With a stethoscope I can hear the ticking at the spark coils (they all sound pretty much the same, no outliers) and nothing at the valve cover.
The MPG hasn't suffered(getting 18-19 with soft driving).
No oil smoke, engine lights, or issues with engine power.
Oil level hasn't moved on the dipstick. (Oil level usually does not noticeably decrease between changes)
Also, I'm thinking of getting an oil analysis.

What do y'all say?
 
don't give that much thought if no issues whatsoever after 60 miles.
Optimism is appreciated. I hope you're right as I'd like to start using this forum for it's main purposes: documenting builds and trips. But I'll need to delay it a bit until I'm sure I don't have a brick.
 
If the motor had been run immediately prior to the change/drian, enough residual oil was present on everything to prevent damage during a 1-2min idle. You're good. Just don't try that with your transmission...definity not the preferred method.
 
If the motor had been run immediately prior to the change/drian, enough residual oil was present on everything to prevent damage during a 1-2min idle. You're good. Just don't try that with your transmission...definity not the preferred method.
You're likely right buuut... it drained for about an hour. So I don't think I can use that to cope with the uneasiness I have.

It's sat the in the garage since that 60 mile suburban trip. I've been debating it but I think I'll change the oil again to help remove any microscopic shavings floating around from the mishap and then take it for a road trip this weekend and look for issues.
 
This actually happens pretty often, and happened to me (after 20+ years of DIY oil changes) on our old Outback (with a much-less robust engine than a 2UZ-FE). The Outback is still totally fine as far as I can tell. There is usually a coating of oil on everything that remains after a change that provides some lubrication. If you are worried about it, take a sample of oil and send it to Blackstone for a analysis (near the end of your next oil change interval) and see if you have elevated levels of metals that could indicate bearing/cylinder wear. If you haven't ditched your old oil yet you could have a test ran on that by Blackstone so you can compare things.

Other things you could do would include dropping an inspection camera into the bores via the spark plug holes to look for signs of scoring and running a compression test. Of course it could have done other things like caused some wear on the cams/journals, oil pump, etc that will be difficult to determine outside of what the Blackstone test tells you. Also, you'd likely have no way of telling if any damage was pre-existing or not.

FYI - your oil filter should catch microscopic oil shavings.
 
I understand your uneasyness, but I'd suggest looking at it like this: it's almost surely fine (IMHO) and if you assume damage but there are no symptoms, what's the plan? Replace or rebuild a smooth, strong running motor (a 2UZ no less)? Seems to me you just have to put it behind you and run it til it blows...hopefully in 20 years with 1,000,000 miles...
Cheers, and good luck! 🍻
 
If there was significant damage you would hear it. Tolerances are real tight on theses motors and that’s one reason why they’re near bulletproof.
 
i would think the crank/con rod bearings are where the bad stuff would have happened if it did
 
Get a blackstone analysis of the current oil/filter. If it runs perfect and nothing alarming comes back from the analysis, forget it ever happened and hide your keys from yourself as a reminder for next time.
 
Run it like you stole it, it well be fine 😁
 
If it didn't show you any failure in 60 miles it is fine. Synthetic sticks around on surfaces even an hour later. I have seen engines run for stress for an hour with no oil with minimal damage. This is one of those monster engines that last.
 
Thanks for the comments folks. Just to follow up in the short term: I went ahead and changed the oil again, replacing the high mileage mobil1 20k synth oil with some "basic" synthetic 10k Castrol Edge (I know this may cause leaks due to the HM "conditioning" in the past). Noted the oil level right below the top dot. I also tightened up the valve covers to 53in-lbs or so as they had been seeping for a while, particularly the driver side, and they had definitely backed out. Then I drove the vehicle 700 miles this weekend to go visit family.

Pretty much all highway, so it was light duty: ~2500RPM with the occasional acceleration requiring ~3300RPM. Engine time was roughly 9 hours. No A/C (it's broke :) no it's not the MG CTL relay, and not a lack of Freon, probably a servo for a vent or something. Hearing ticking in the dash occasionally) so the MPG was good at around 18 mpg.

Oil level didn't drop at all (barring whatever miniscule exchange of water and oil occurs during the combustion process). Coolant levels were good too.

So it looks good so far. To the next guy who has the same mishap, I hope this settles you a bit. I'll report back if anything happens in the future that could vaguely be associated with this (e.g. not making it to 600k miles with this motor :) ).

Before I left I installed my first K&N filter (what the.. you have to oil this thing?) a new DieHard AGM battery, and a voltage booster pro along with it, which I have some observations about but I'll find the appropriate thread for it
 
Thanks for the comments folks. Just to follow up in the short term: I went ahead and changed the oil again, replacing the high mileage mobil1 20k synth oil with some "basic" synthetic 10k Castrol Edge (I know this may cause leaks due to the HM "conditioning" in the past). Noted the oil level right below the top dot. I also tightened up the valve covers to 53in-lbs or so as they had been seeping for a while, particularly the driver side, and they had definitely backed out. Then I drove the vehicle 700 miles this weekend to go visit family.

Pretty much all highway, so it was light duty: ~2500RPM with the occasional acceleration requiring ~3300RPM. Engine time was roughly 9 hours. No A/C (it's broke :) no it's not the MG CTL relay, and not a lack of Freon, probably a servo for a vent or something. Hearing ticking in the dash occasionally) so the MPG was good at around 18 mpg.

Oil level didn't drop at all (barring whatever miniscule exchange of water and oil occurs during the combustion process). Coolant levels were good too.

So it looks good so far. To the next guy who has the same mishap, I hope this settles you a bit. I'll report back if anything happens in the future that could vaguely be associated with this (e.g. not making it to 600k miles with this motor :) ).

Before I left I installed my first K&N filter (what the.. you have to oil this thing?) a new DieHard AGM battery, and a voltage booster pro along with it, which I have some observations about but I'll find the appropriate thread for it
The engine time wasn't 9 hours, derrr. It was 9 hours before i left on the return trip. It was roughly 15 hours by the time I got home.
 
Thanks for the comments folks. Just to follow up in the short term: I went ahead and changed the oil again, replacing the high mileage mobil1 20k synth oil with some "basic" synthetic 10k Castrol Edge (I know this may cause leaks due to the HM "conditioning" in the past). Noted the oil level right below the top dot. I also tightened up the valve covers to 53in-lbs or so as they had been seeping for a while, particularly the driver side, and they had definitely backed out. Then I drove the vehicle 700 miles this weekend to go visit family.

Pretty much all highway, so it was light duty: ~2500RPM with the occasional acceleration requiring ~3300RPM. Engine time was roughly 9 hours. No A/C (it's broke :) no it's not the MG CTL relay, and not a lack of Freon, probably a servo for a vent or something. Hearing ticking in the dash occasionally) so the MPG was good at around 18 mpg.

Oil level didn't drop at all (barring whatever miniscule exchange of water and oil occurs during the combustion process). Coolant levels were good too.

So it looks good so far. To the next guy who has the same mishap, I hope this settles you a bit. I'll report back if anything happens in the future that could vaguely be associated with this (e.g. not making it to 600k miles with this motor :) ).

Before I left I installed my first K&N filter (what the.. you have to oil this thing?) a new DieHard AGM battery, and a voltage booster pro along with it, which I have some observations about but I'll find the appropriate thread for it
hope the visc. was 5/30. Why synthetics since 5k refill intervals are the norm and a high quality non-synth. Will do just fine.
 

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