2nd alternator in place of smog pump...

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So I bought SOR's smog pump eliminator kit a year or so ago and it completely grenaded in my engine compartment leaving my FJ60 dead and overheating, so I'm trying to come up with some options. The best option I've seen is adding another alternator, but I just wanted to know if a stock alternator would just bolt right in there witht the same adjuster or if the whole bracket is different. The non-US 'cruisers have their alternators in the smog pump spot, right? Thanks!

Zack
 
Thanks, I did see that post but do you HAVE to use a 62 bracket for it all to work? Can you use the pump bracket? I saw Mark W's post but it was more or less inconclusive. Would it be a direct drop in mod with a old F engine bracket? And would the bracket go in with no modification? Thanks!
 
The old bracket will bolt right on your engine. A couple of washers for spacers and it's pretty much a bolt in. You could probably use your stock bracket too, but I'd have to eyeball one to be sure.


Mark...
 
IIRC it's about 120 to 130 range. The alt shop had the pulley and i went with one a little smaller than the smog pump. I installed a second volt meter guage and I usually have to run the truck up to about 2500 rpms to get it to excite but then it stays that way until you turn off the truck.
 
Most GM alternators will take the Toyota pulley.


Mark...
 
Great Avatar ZRoth!
 
Almost...

Well I got everything bolted up, but the second alternator had a double pulley on it, so it would rub the first alternator/power steering pump belt. So now I'm waiting on a single pulley. Meanwhile, it looks like everything will work out using the old F engine alternator bracket. Puts the alternator in the exact right place without any modifications at all! Just take 2 easy bolts out of the smog pump bracket, and throw them back on to the alternator bracket. With power steering, however, the adjusting bracket needs a spacer. I'll get another pic when I finalize everything. Here's the bracket so far. Works perfect!
IMGP0206.webp
 
Also, I'm thinking of how I'll wire the thing, and after researching alternators a bit I've come up with the following. The "B" output is supposed to go to the battery, ~14V. So is it safe to assume these can be in parallel (both alternators hooked to the same node) or would this confuse the voltage regulators? The "IG" turns on the field, so I assume these can also just be hooked up together. The "L" connection that connects to the charge light wouldn't turn on unless BOTH of the alternators failed if they were in parallel, so in order to get it to turn on if either of them failed, I would just install a pair of diodes to each lead. Since the light comes on when the "L" connection is more or less grounded (meaning the battery is powering the field and the alternator is not self-powered), putting a diodes in there would prevent one alternator from powering the other (at least as far as the light goes). If the diodes were LED's, I could even tell which alternator had failed. But I might be way off, so any opinions would be helpful. Thanks!
 
Unfortunately I rolled the truck before I got any pics so she's waiting for me to fix her up a few hundred miles away. But this project all went together successfully. The old F bracket fit right on (pic of that above) and the used alternator went right on that. The adjuster bracket has to be sort of bent around to get a good tightness so the belt doesn't slacken and I was going to get a spacer for it but it worked for a while like i had it. I wired everything up completely in parallel so when the electrical load is light only one alternator is producing the power (since one's bound to make a little more voltage than the other) but as soon as the load is increased they both pump out the power and it's nice to keep your lights bright and fan going on high. I thought it worked out great!
 

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