2LTE Spill Control Valve (1 Viewer)

[Prado-kirk]

Try this link for 2L-TD ,3-0 LTD, KZN-185 info and more related


Surf Maintenance


Kirk

 

[maximus]

Kirk,

Great news, you've located your problem! Indeed, I've got a sensor coming one of these days from Australia and will let you know what happens when it gets here and I replace it. I have carefully taken the top of the pump off and had a look at the sensor currently in there and it looks like it can be removed. It will be a bit of a tight squeeze, and I'll have to be careful not to damage the top seals (and not to get any dirt in the pump!) but I think it can be done. I'm also saying this because the gent who is sending me his old sensor from Australia has it kicking around from when when they reconditioned his pump and replaced it-- hence it can be removed/replaced. He said it worked when they removed it, but they replaced it as part of an "overhaul" / reconditioning.

I don't think that trying to bypass the sensor somehow will work. As I understand it, the sensor sends out a pulse signal which it gets from the pump rotors (inside of the pump anyway) turning over while you crank the engine. This signal goes to the ECU which in turn sends out a signal to the spill control valve, which then permits the pump to send out the right amount of fuel at the right pressure to the injectors. So, if you bypassed the sensor somehow to just get a certain amount of resistance you wouldn't get whatever pulse / signal the sensor is supposed to send and you wouldn't get the spill control valve working and therefore no fuel (or too little or without sufficient pressure).

I think that's likely what happens at the colder temperatures-- somehow the sensor is faulty and simply doesn't work (has no continuity) at those temperatures. The ECU "thinks" there is no signal and that the pump isn't operating so it keeps the spill control valve open preventing the proper flow of fuel to the injectors. I've actually noticed (before figuring out the issue with the sensor but after many, many hours of trying other things) that if you crack a line at the injector by loosening a box nut, you do get fuel coming out of there while turning over the engine. It just dribbles out though, which originally led me to thinking that the spill control valve was stuck or gunked up.

Anyway, as I may have mentioned, I've also got the dealer I purchased the truck from here working on finding the sensor and on getting a price. I'll let you know what/if I hear anything from him.

I've also thought about the 12V hairdryer but I don't think they really exist as a hair dryer uses around 800 to 1500 watts or so and would quickly drain your battery. If you do find anything like that, though, please let me know!

Thanks for the link. That's actually the Aussie site where I connected with the gentleman who's sending me his old sensor (on the forum).

Here's the link, FYI:
Toyota 4WD Surf Owners :: View topic - Spill Control Valve


Cheers,
Max

 

[dberwin]

Just wondering if this thread is over. What happened with the new sensor.

My truck will start but overfuels badly on startup (black smoke and carbon on the ground) and shudders and such for 30 seconds. After that it runs perfectly and starts perfectly.

If plugged in it starts perfectly. I was chasing glow plugs but maybe this is related. I will test the ohms when cold.

Dan

 

[prado t]

It is not glo-plugs that creates that problem, the smoking the sputtering . It is the low temp sesor that causes that problem

 

[Prado-kirk]

Senser Trouble

Prado-t

I have ask how do you know its the low temp senser?

What did you do to remedy it?

 

[wallybanger]

Great thread guys. Just tonight I bought an 1985 pickup with a 2L-T that is apparently having problems that match this description. I'm going to pick it up this weekend and then I'm gonna have to investigate!

 

[robert vic]

Hi all,

I've got a 1991 2.4 LTD (2L-TE) Hilux Surf. I have another thread going on this topic, but it started out as something completely different, so I thought I'd start a new thread to deal with just this issue.

I've found that the engine is impossible to start below a certain temperature and have narrowed it down to a part on the fuel pump which I think is called the "spill control valve". There is no smoke or ignition at all.

From what I gather, this part is a solenoid that determines how much fuel the injectors receive, depending on fuel pressure. I've found that if I hold a hair dryer to it for a few minutes, the truck will start up immediately, with no problems at all. So, my theory is that there is a buildup of varnish or congealed diesel which makes the solenoid stick. When warmed slightly, it has the power to open the valve properly.

In any event, I'm now looking at replacing this part and was wondering if anyone knows:

a) Can it be removed from the fuel pump?
b) If so, how?
c) Can it be serviced (i.e. cleaned)?
d) How does it work?

I appreciate your thoughts.

For reference, a picture of what I think is the offending part is attached (not my pump, this one is a pic from the internet).

Cheers,
Max
View attachment 195904

how do you remove the metal cap on the SCV, TO expose adjusment screw?

 

[robert vic]

how do you remove the metal cap on the SCV?

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

how do you remove the metal cap on the SCV?

Hi again. You can just use some pliers to pull the cap off. If this is related to your other post where you've lost power, DO NOT adjust the SCV to compensate for the problems your motor has! Only change the SCV when your engine is running well, and you are increasing boost or intercooling! Your problems having nothing to do with the SCV from the sounds of it.

 

[Muzo]

Hi all,

I've got a 1991 2.4 LTD (2L-TE) Hilux Surf. I have another thread going on this topic, but it started out as something completely different, so I thought I'd start a new thread to deal with just this issue.

I've found that the engine is impossible to start below a certain temperature and have narrowed it down to a part on the fuel pump which I think is called the "spill control valve". There is no smoke or ignition at all.

From what I gather, this part is a solenoid that determines how much fuel the injectors receive, depending on fuel pressure. I've found that if I hold a hair dryer to it for a few minutes, the truck will start up immediately, with no problems at all. So, my theory is that there is a buildup of varnish or congealed diesel which makes the solenoid stick. When warmed slightly, it has the power to open the valve properly.

In any event, I'm now looking at replacing this part and was wondering if anyone knows:

a) Can it be removed from the fuel pump?
b) If so, how?
c) Can it be serviced (i.e. cleaned)?
d) How does it work?

I appreciate your thoughts.

For reference, a picture of what I think is the offending part is attached (not my pump, this one is a pic from the internet).

Cheers,
Max
View attachment 195904

Having same problem starting my 2 LTE engine on my Prado. I have tried to swap pumps nothing changes. If it does start revs go straight up and won't stop with the key neither is there rev control on the pedal. It was all good until had it parked for a month. I suspect rodents may have gotten in and cut some cables. Will try checking cables from ignition and from the pump to the ECU. Anyone here to help I would appreciate. Am from Zambia. I have been all over internet to just sort this out.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Having same problem starting my 2 LTE engine on my Prado. I have tried to swap pumps nothing changes. If it does start revs go straight up and won't stop with the key neither is there rev control on the pedal. It was all good until had it parked for a month. I suspect rodents may have gotten in and cut some cables. Will try checking cables from ignition and from the pump to the ECU. Anyone here to help I would appreciate. Am from Zambia. I have been all over internet to just sort this out.

Here are the LJ78 schematics translated to english (below). They should help you to check your wiring.

Check your throttle position sensor wiring, and the spill valve wiring especially. Try a different ECU if you can.

Make sure not to put 12VDC direct to your spill valve, or you will burn it out! It is not like a fuel shut off solenoid of a mechanical injection pump.

Check to see if anyone has increase fuel by screwing in the adjust on top of the spill valve. The engine will go into run-away if this is screwed in by one turn or more. If this has been played with, screw it back out and it might fix your problem. It should have a cap cover it. If the cap is removed, then likely someone has played with it.

Also, you should read out the engine error codes. You have to jumper TE1 to E1 in the diagnostic connector box in the engine bay. The check engine light will flash codes with key turned to 'ON'.

Also read the ECD manual so you understand the engine:



Here are the schematics:

 

[Muzo]

Here are the LJ78 schematics translated to english (below). They should help you to check your wiring.

Check your throttle position sensor wiring, and the spill valve wiring especially. Try a different ECU if you can.

Make sure not to put 12VDC direct to your spill valve, or you will burn it out! It is not like a fuel shut off solenoid of a mechanical injection pump.

Check to see if anyone has increase fuel by screwing in the adjust on top of the spill valve. The engine will go into run-away if this is screwed in by one turn or more. If this has been played with, screw it back out and it might fix your problem. It should have a cap cover it. If the cap is removed, then likely someone has played with it.

Also, you should read out the engine error codes. You have to jumper TE1 to E1 in the diagnostic connector box in the engine bay. The check engine light will flash codes with key turned to 'ON'.

Also read the ECD manual so you understand the engine:



Here are the schematics:

Thanks. I will check and feedback.