2LTE - cannot start - no fuel going into injectors (1 Viewer)

[Dari Desilva]

Hi J70 fans,
I have a 91 LJ78 with a 2LTE engine and 5-sp manual. I got it in 2018, and I have done a lot go work to it in the 1st year...its been running great for about 4 years without any issues. However, I tried to start it the other day, and I couldn't. I have diesel, removed the supply line to the injector pump, and there is diesel in the supply line. l loosened an injector feed line, and cranked the engine...no fuel leaking out of the line....I checked the wires, fuses, etc...all look good. Could the injector pump just fail? I have not used the cruiser for months...and that is normal...I do not use it during every winter. I changed the fuel filter also... any ideas on fuel is going to the injectors? Is there a repair kit or do I need a new pump? thanks for the help...

 

[Squash]

Suspect the fuel solenoid.
You should hear the solenoid click while cycling the key. You can run a hot lead to the solenoid, if it clicks and starts then the problem is upstream. If no clicking change the solenoid.
The solenoid is on top of the pump and will have wires.

 

[Dari Desilva]

Suspect the fuel solenoid.
You should hear the solenoid click while cycling the key. You can run a hot lead to the solenoid, if it clicks and starts then the problem is upstream. If no clicking change the solenoid.
The solenoid is on top of the pump and will have wires.

View attachment 3634469

Thank you very much for the info. Which one is the solenoid? Is it the spill valve in the diagram above? thanks again!

 

[Squash]

12 volt solenoid.
Solenoid has one wire at the top.
In the photo you see how I've energized the solenoid with + feed and tapped the - ground to solenoid body. Doing this creates the click and movement of a little plunger. Simply remove the rubber boot and apply battery positive feed to the solenoid, if it clicks then it should be OK.
In no click then change the solenoid, if it clicks you have a wiring issue.
If the wiring is bad, run a fused wire with a rocker switch and make your own anti theft device.

 

[Dari Desilva]

12 volt solenoid.
Solenoid has one wire at the top.
In the photo you see how I've energized the solenoid with + feed and tapped the - ground to solenoid body. Doing this creates the click and movement of a little plunger. Simply remove the rubber boot and apply battery positive feed to the solenoid, if it clicks then it should be OK.
In no click then change the solenoid, if it clicks you have a wiring issue.
If the wiring is bad, run a fused wire with a rocker switch and make your own anti theft device.

View attachment 3636946

View attachment 3636944

Thank you

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Guys guys guys. The 2LTE is electronic injection and has a spill valve in place of the fuel shut off solenoid of mechanical injection. If you put 12v to the 2LTE one it'll ruin it. It's made only for pulsed current. Best is to check resistance. You'll have a heck of a time finding a replacement if you do wreck the spill valve; likely having to buy a new injection pump.

Check grounds, and pull ECU codes. That's the best way to start troubleshooting this problem.

 

[Squash]

Pretty tough even finding info on this part other than being common to toyota diesels from Corolla to Hiace if that helps.
Airhead has valid points on grounds and wiring. Definitely check wiring and have fun pulling your hair out.
I'd still remove the boot, disconnect wiring and look for continuity with key on/off.

 

[Squash]

Oh!
Verify glow system and a check engine light are functioning before cranking.
Possibly the ECU 5 volt circuit is shot.
If this is the case, I would definitely hotwire 5 to nine volts just to see her run.
Try surfing the Hilux UK site for other insights.
Best one was using a hair dryer the warm up the spill valve.

 

[Houser]

Also you mentioned in your Other post you were having to manually advance-rotate your injection pump to get it to cold start then moving it back to the timing mark for driving. This might indicate you have a failed timing valve on your injection pump. If you do decide you need a new pump I would recommend upgrading to a NEW mechanical 3L pump. They are easy to install. Cost less and are easer to come by than a 2lte pump. And are much easer to time and tune than a 2lte pump.

 

[Dari Desilva]

Also you mentioned in your Other post you were having to manually advance-rotate your injection pump to get it to cold start then moving it back to the timing mark for driving. This might indicate you have a failed timing valve on your injection pump. If you do decide you need a new pump I would recommend upgrading to a NEW mechanical 3L pump. They are easy to install. Cost less and are easer to come by than a 2lte pump. And are much easer to time and tune than a 2lte pump.

Just a clarification. I do it once a year before my emissions test. I have it advanced all year, but the day of the emissions check, I change the timing. I live in Denver, Colorado, and an annual test is required for diesels. They just check if I smoke too much at idle, 20mph, 40, and 60...30% opacity is the limit...I am at single digits, except at 60mph...it goes to about 15%.

 

[Smiley91]

Im having si

Guys guys guys. The 2LTE is electronic injection and has a spill valve in place of the fuel shut off solenoid of mechanical injection. If you put 12v to the 2LTE one it'll ruin it. It's made only for pulsed current. Best is to check resistance. You'll have a heck of a time finding a replacement if you do wreck the spill valve; likely having to buy a new injection pump.

Check grounds, and pull ECU codes. That's the best way to start troubleshooting this

Guys guys guys. The 2LTE is electronic injection and has a spill valve in place of the fuel shut off solenoid of mechanical injection. If you put 12v to the 2LTE one it'll ruin it. It's made only for pulsed current. Best is to check resistance. You'll have a heck of a time finding a replacement if you do wreck the spill valve; likely having to buy a new injection pump.

Check grounds, and pull ECU codes. That's the best way to start troubleshooting this problem.

Hey mate I've got the same issue as this guy. I've checked all my sensors and outputs, all ok, I have fuel coming out of injectors lines and fuel pump but no fuel out of the injectors. Both pump and injectors reconditioned not long ago. Any advice?? Cheers

 

[PradoEric]

Dari! Nice to meet you! I am in Boulder! I also have a 1991. Did you get your Prado started? The exact same thing you mentioned happened to mine. For me it was the SCV, it was locked up, I actually found one on Amazon and had it in 2 days.

 

[Dari Desilva]

Dari! Nice to meet you! I am in Boulder! I also have a 1991. Did you get your Prado started? The exact same thing you mentioned happened to mine. For me it was the SCV, it was locked up, I actually found one on Amazon and had it in 2 days.

Hi Eric, thanks for the msg. Which valve is this? Can you please share the link for the part? thanks for the help in advance!!!

 

[PradoEric]

Hi Eric, thanks for the msg. Which valve is this? Can you please share the link for the part? thanks for the help in advance!!!

Here you go, Amazon has a few, they are toyota OEM. This is exactly what I used and works like a champ!

https://www.amazon.com/Solarhome-Control-096600-0033-0966000033-Toyota/dp/B097YBDQZH

They are a PAIN to get off, I wasn;t worried about running the one I was removing, so I did it with a 90deg adjustable pipe wrench like this.

https://www.amazon.com/HAUTMEC-PL0024-Wrench-Capacity-11-Inch/dp/B072MHCWZ6/ref=sr_1_2?crid=UNL5HVQ5DQ80&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.CfgE5aHnsERnouHgI3Et53dRmM7Qn0PWvUX-dQqs3swkqIB4ovtUMNpWPWu9ZgLCOOlCjBPCqaCxiCBtqANiPmXlb8BCjvS-PA9Jf3Q9gOpVDzsiyKjq4e2hexY1sP-s-iPSQWutPGpzXygJCEE_X7SWluKyTmiv6amhCmBGjNVO_s4TMljNxlZ6TK8Xtr48XBmKp2rSI1tELpxuSVOFDhBuGbR9GyfYNd0X0Tp4BID4Q4Xt2j0zQJLxBjfjGiSYROOt_iWZRC6GPVZMLJZh64CRimhG1mh-eqfqm3QIlKI.zjhV_qx3JwKAivKf6r8Ki0b9ifEH8z8PBOpagVc26AU&dib_tag=se&keywords=90%2Bdeg%2Bfaucet%2Bwrench&qid=1724117814&s=hi&sprefix=90%2Bdeg%2Bfaucet%2Bwrench%2Ctools%2C115&sr=1-2&th=1

You can have it all fixed by saturday afternoon.

 

[Dari Desilva]

Thank you. I will get the part and the tool...I think its a helpful tool to have to begin with. thanks again.

 

[PradoEric]

Thank you. I will get the part and the tool...I think its a helpful tool to have to begin with. thanks again.

Awesome, let me know how it goes. You will need to dial in the set screw ontop to set your fuel. Clockwise adds fuel, counter clock-wise removes fuel. If you are adjusting and the motor starts to "run away", i.e. accelerate just back the set screw off.

 

[Dari Desilva]

Awesome, let me know how it goes. You will need to dial in the set screw ontop to set your fuel. Clockwise adds fuel, counter clock-wise removes fuel. If you are adjusting and the motor starts to "run away", i.e. accelerate just back the set screw off.

I finally got the part (Denso), installed it... Did you have to turn the screw to get it started the first time? I am struggling to get it started, but I have not turned the screw yet. Thanks for the help!