2lt super glow wiring (2 Viewers)

[4Ruster]

The dreaded super glow thread...

I've actually been running a Ford starter relay directly to my rail, it's been fine, but id like the simplicity of just turning they key and letting the computer tell me what to do, plus I see some work on a modernized computer so I want to get my wiring back to factory.

This is what my engine looks like now

In my possession, I have the computer, the relay box, the resistor in the manifold, and the sensing plate.

I'm hoping I could get pictures of all the connectors and what they plug into if you all don't mind.

 

[4Ruster]

Well, with help from some photos, and some looking at the old shop manuals in the storage closet at work, I have made an easy to read wiring diagram.

Hope this helps anyone else as crazy as me who wants to restore their superglow system

 

[duncanrm]

That is a superb diagram... You're a wizard. Useful for me, I have 2L in a little Hilux so may need this one day. Thanks!

 

[Adam R]

To me, simplicity is 12V glow plugs, a momentary switch and relay, and counting to 10 when it's cold out. I fried several sets of 6V/12 plugs back in the day before getting straight 12V plugs.

Just sayin'

 

[4Ruster]

To me, simplicity is 12V glow plugs, a momentary switch and relay, and counting to 10 when it's cold out. I fried several sets of 6V/12 plugs back in the day before getting straight 12V plugs.

Just sayin'

And so is running a manual choke cable. And deleting your AC. and removing the LSPV to put a manual proportion valve. And to remove the ACSD in the injector pump.

Some people want simplicity, and some people want to lend their trucks to family members and not have to leave a guide book on how to start the truck.

After years of running a Wilson switch, I just want the ease of the truck to do it for me. Plus the super glow system works very well when it is working. You get a nice smooth cold start with minimal shudder and smoke.

 

[Adam R]

Fair enough, but you lost me at lending your truck to family members. That is something I don't do, ever. Nor to friends, co-workers, etc.

I've done a few complicated things, but a manual glow plug switch was one of the easiest and most reliable mods over the past 25+ years.

Good luck with your project.

Adam

 

[4Ruster]

There's a quick video showing how the relays work.

Note both relays come on at the same time. I don't know if my old timer does that, or thats the indented function. The dash light goes off only after a few seconds, however the main relay stays energized for almost double the time. It then clicks off and the second relay stays on for almost a minute.

My theory about both relays coming on is that it allows the resistor in the manifold to heat up as well. When testing earlier, I noted that the resistor created a lot of heat.

Anyways, I will be looking further into how the superglow system works since it seems to be a mystery magic box that breaks on mud. I don't mind being the guinea pig if any of you have any questions.

 

[4Ruster]

Ignore the relays, those are just so I can manually toggle them induvidually with grounding switches.

Pictured smack in the middle is the voltage sensing "resistor". You can see the main and secondary relay wires on the rubber isolation nut.

 

[4Ruster]

Since my thread seems to be mentioned a lot recently with winter on the horizon, I'll add a little diagnostics post.

First off. This is a very simple system once you get to know it. All the timer does is measure the engine temperature and time accordingly.

-It will first send full battery voltage through the main relay to heat the plugs very quickly.

*There is a resistance sensing bar going from where the electrical connector is, and the actual rail. We will get into this later.*
-When the timer senses the glow plugs have reached full temperature, the main relay switches off, and sending the power through the secondary relay. There is a big resistor mounted in the intake that this current goes through, thus dropping the voltage to around what the plugs are rated for.

The second relay will run for a short amount of time after the engine is running to keep some heat in the prechamber
Okay now you have a rough understanding on how this system works.
TEST 1: ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR
There will be a coolant temperature sender in the block of the engine, in the case of the L series diesel, it is mounted above the starter motor under the intake. To test this sensor, simply measure the resistance between the two plugs and go off this handy chart here below

You can also gain access to the sensor via pin 10 and 7 on the timer controller. They will be coloured green and green/black
If the resistance is off you may get too short or too long of a glow cycle.
TEST 2: GLOW PLUG CURRENT SENSOR
This sensor is actually very important and without it plugged in, the controller wont even function. To test this, simple connect a multimeter to the plug and test for continuity between the terminals.

The resistance should be around 0.5 ohms.

TEST 3: GLOWPLUGS
This test is very easy, just pull the glow plug rail and test each plug for continuity.

Also pull the plugs out and check the physical condition.

 

[4Ruster]

TEST 4: WIRING
Now the timer box itself needs a few electrical connections.

IGNITION POWER- pin 4. Should receive 12 volts when the ignition is in the ON position.
GROUND- pin 10. This pin is also tied in with one wire coming from the coolant temp sensor, it simple goes to a body ground.
STARTER- pin 11. This will receive 12 volts when the starter motor is engaged.
ALTERNATOR L- pin 9. This goes to the L terminal on the alternator -or to the charge fuse-. It will have ground continuity when the engine is off, and no continuity when the engine is running.



Now unfortunately, the main issue with the super glow system is the timer box itself. Over the years, the solder joints crack and he capacitors leak. But hopefully after doing these simple tests outlined in the service manual, you will be able to determine what needs to be replaced.

 

[duncanrm]

Since my thread seems to be mentioned a lot recently with winter on the horizon, I'll add a little diagnostics post.

Superb content thanks! My little 2L powered ute is glowing fine, but I have bookmarked this in the event it fails. I might check the standard behaviour whilst its working well - a subsequent diagnosis would be much quicker with some exposure to the working system.

 

[Jag Ln61]

TEST 2: GLOW PLUG CURRENT SENSOR
This sensor is actually very important and without it plugged in, the controller wont even function. To test this, simple connect a multimeter to the plug and test for continuity between the terminals.
View attachment 3480835
The resistance should be around 0.5 ohms.

Thanks for going through this, helps a lot! I don't know if you can help, but I have a couple Questions;

1. Would there be any way to Bypass this current sensing resistor? If I put a 0.5ohm ceramic in it's place, would that "trick" it?

My system was working perfectly, but now I'm doing a 1kzt swap, and unfortunately sold the old 2LT engine with the glow plug rail still attached, if I'd known earlier I'd have kept it and tried to retrofit. Nla from Toyota either.

2. And then the next issue - a 1kz runs 12v glow plugs, I assume then the 12v/6v system will essentially just not get the plugs as hot as needed?

My plan here was to put a small resistor inline with the water temp sensor to make it think it's colder out, and hold the voltage for longer in an attempt to heat the plugs up more, is this logic sound?