2LT maximum turbo boost? (2 Viewers)

[GTSSportCoupe]

Came up with code 12. Which could be crank sensor I'm still unsure that it is indeed a crank sensor on the thermostat housing??

No, the crank sensor is in the side of the block near the bottom of the engine (sort of below the injection pump). I don't think the engine would run if this was unplugged.

Your first picture shows the air intake sensor. Looks like someone pulled it out of your air box / air intake. Make sure there's not an empty hole somewhere sucking in dirt.

The second picture is the temperature sender for your gauge cluster. Does your temp gauge work when that sender is unplugged? The actual engine temperature sensor is located in the side of the block under the intake manifold.

Code 12 is not crank sensor. Code 12 is the timing control valve in the injection pump (read about the fault codes here: 2.4LTE Fault Codes). The timing control valve advances the injection pump timing with rpm. Getting this code does not necessarily mean that the timing control valve is bad. What it means is the computer thinks it's bad because it can't achieve the desired injection timing it wants (there is a pick-up sensor in the top of the injection pump that reads the timing relative to the crank timing and thats how it figures this out). Things that cause this problem are: worn out timing belt that has skipped a tooth, injection pump installed wrong (marks on outer ear don't line up), or sometimes its just crud built up in the bottom of the injection pump. This stops the timing control valve from achieving correct timing.

In that fault code link I gave above, it explains how to pull the codes yourself. Give it a try.

Funny you're in Duncan. I was just there today visiting my Grandma...haha. Small world.

 

[DanRabey]

No, the crank sensor is in the side of the block near the bottom of the engine (sort of below the injection pump). I don't think the engine would run if this was unplugged.

Your first picture shows the air intake sensor. Looks like someone pulled it out of your air box / air intake. Make sure there's not an empty hole somewhere sucking in dirt.

The second picture is the temperature sender for your gauge cluster. Does your temp gauge work when that sender is unplugged? The actual engine temperature sensor is located in the side of the block under the intake manifold.

Code 12 is not crank sensor. Code 12 is the timing control valve in the injection pump (read about the fault codes here: 2.4LTE Fault Codes). The timing control valve advances the injection pump timing with rpm. Getting this code does not necessarily mean that the timing control valve is bad. What it means is the computer thinks it's bad because it can't achieve the desired injection timing it wants (there is a pick-up sensor in the top of the injection pump that reads the timing relative to the crank timing and thats how it figures this out). Things that cause this problem are: worn out timing belt that has skipped a tooth, injection pump installed wrong (marks on outer ear don't line up), or sometimes its just crud built up in the bottom of the injection pump. This stops the timing control valve from achieving correct timing.

In that fault code link I gave above, it explains how to pull the codes yourself. Give it a try.

Funny you're in Duncan. I was just there today visiting my Grandma...haha. Small world.

Yea sorry i messed up it is the timing code dunno why I wrote what I did i guess just on my mind. And the guy I just bought/ traded our car for this thing. Said he had the injection pump off and re sealed it . Most likely he didn't set it up right. Is this something I can do myself as I am mechanically inclined I did the timing belt on my 3.4 taco with no problems. And am also into learning about what I own. Or is this just a job for a shop. Or can I do an adjustments while it's on the truck

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Yea sorry i messed up it is the timing code dunno why I wrote what I did i guess just on my mind. And the guy I just bought/ traded our car for this thing. Said he had the injection pump off and re sealed it . Most likely he didn't set it up right. Is this something I can do myself as I am mechanically inclined I did the timing belt on my 3.4 taco with no problems. And am also into learning about what I own. Or is this just a job for a shop. Or can I do an adjustments while it's on the truck

Chances are very high that he reinstalled the timing belt one tooth out on the injection pump. I did this by mistake when I resealed my pump. Had to do the timing belt again. Trick is to rotate the engine a few times to make sure that all the timing marks still line up with the new timing belt install.

Try not to drive it too much until this is fixed, because really advanced or retarded timing is hard on the engine.

Even with my timing belt out one tooth, I was able to loosen the injection pump mounting bolts (two at front of pump on the ears and one at the back bottom of the pump), and rotate the pump as far as I could (in my case I had to retard it - top away from engine) until the computer could achieve the needed timing. Then I only got the timing error at idle when the computer could not quite retard the timing enough. So I was able to get by until I could dig back into it. This may not work for you...but is one think you could try. Not sure how mechanically capable you are...but with these engines it's best if you can do your own wrenching. Otherwise you'll spend a fortune.

 

[DanRabey]

Chances are very high that he reinstalled the timing belt one tooth out on the injection pump. I did this by mistake when I resealed my pump. Had to do the timing belt again. Trick is to rotate the engine a few times to make sure that all the timing marks still line up with the new timing belt install.

Try not to drive it too much until this is fixed, because really advanced or retarded timing is hard on the engine.

Even with my timing belt out one tooth, I was able to loosen the injection pump mounting bolts (two at front of pump on the ears and one at the back bottom of the pump), and rotate the pump as far as I could (in my case I had to retard it - top away from engine) until the computer could achieve the needed timing. Then I only got the timing error at idle when the computer could not quite retard the timing enough. So I was able to get by until I could dig back into it. This may not work for you...but is one think you could try. Not sure how mechanically capable you are...but with these engines it's best if you can do your own wrenching. Otherwise you'll spend a fortune.

How do I know if I need to retard or advance the timing. Just by the marks. The kid who sold it to me said he had pictures of the marks on where they were supposed to go.but who knows

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

How do I know if I need to retard or advance the timing. Just by the marks. The kid who sold it to me said he had pictures of the marks on where they were supposed to go.but who knows

Yeah, the problem happens if the pulley that turns the pump is out by a tooth. If I had to guess I'd say yours is retarded by one tooth. So what you'd want to do is rotate the top of the pump towards the engine block to advance it as much as possible. Really this is just a stop gap measure. You should just have the timing belt checked.

 

[DanRabey]

Yeah, the problem happens if the pulley that turns the pump is out by a tooth. If I had to guess I'd say yours is retarded by one tooth. So what you'd want to do is rotate the top of the pump towards the engine block to advance it as much as possible. Really this is just a stop gap measure. You should just have the timing belt checked.

Thanks for all the help by the way it's greatly appreciated. So I have to check it by removing the injector pump all together.. Or is there an easier way . Can I just check the timing belt cover . Or does the pump have it's own timing marks to line up and that's what I'm checking

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Thanks for all the help by the way it's greatly appreciated. So I have to check it by removing the injector pump all together.. Or is there an easier way . Can I just check the timing belt cover . Or does the pump have it's own timing marks to line up and that's what I'm checking

No, you don't have to remove the injection pump. If you've ever done a timing belt on any motor, this is basically the same, but instead of just having the crank pulley, tensioner and cam pulley(s), you also have to wind the belt around the injection pump pulley. They all have to line up perfectly otherwise timing will be out.

I don't think I've ever been able to view the pulleys without removing the front timing belt covers. So you would need to take it apart at least that much. It is a fair amount of work, there is no two ways about it. If you think it's too much for you then you'll have to bring it to a mechanic. These guys are somewhat familiar with the motors: Home

Download this manual, and read the 'Timing Belt' section. This will help you understand how it all goes together. This manual is for the mechanical injection version of the motor, but most of the motor is the same as the electronic injection version.
Dropbox - 2L 3L 5L ENGINE RM520E.pdf

I can only give you suggestions over the web. You'll have to dig into the manuals and understand the motor a bit to be able to do the work yourself. And again, I'm just giving educated guesses at what your problem is. Almost certainly it's injection pump related though; thats for sure.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Thanks for all the help by the way it's greatly appreciated. So I have to check it by removing the injector pump all together.. Or is there an easier way . Can I just check the timing belt cover . Or does the pump have it's own timing marks to line up and that's what I'm checking

One more thing, here is a link to when I resealed my injection pump. Lots of pictures that will help you understand what it's all about. Shows the parts of the pump, but also shows the re-install process. You can see the timing belt etc. Resealed my rotary injection pump

 

[DanRabey]

One more thing, here is a link to when I resealed my injection pump. Lots of pictures that will help you understand what it's all about. Shows the parts of the pump, but also shows the re-install process. You can see the timing belt etc. Resealed my rotary injection pump

Where would u go try next if it were on the mark? I'm gonna see if the kid will actually send me pics of the timing done . It is a lot of crap just to check. And the truck runs fine mostly.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Where would u go try next if it were on the mark? I'm gonna see if the kid will actually send me pics of the timing done . It is a lot of crap just to check. And the truck runs fine mostly.

Things that I can think of that would cause that error and can be checked would be: - Timing belt right, mark on outer ear of pump matched up right, pump resealed right and kid didn't wreck anything, Timing Control Valve (bottom back of pump) plugged in, pump internals clean and free of debris.

A number of people do get the code 12 without having touched their pump at all. What the Australians have figured out is that sediment/debris in the bottom of the pump can plug up the hydraulic passages around the timing control valve. They pull the valve out, clean it, and flush the pump with fresh diesel using the primer pump. Nine times out of ten it fixes the problem apparently.

You can see a picture of the timing control valve in the photos I linked to above. It is accessible (barely) with the pump on the truck.

Rotating your pump towards the engine block will likely fix the problem too. As the Timing Control Valve will not have to move so much to advance the timing. Depending on the actual cause of the problem this might just be a temporary fix.

 

[DanRabey]

[QUOTE="GTSSportCoupe, post:

Rotating your pump towards the engine block will likely fix the problem too. As the Timing Control Valve will not have to move so much to advance the timing. Depending on the actual cause of the problem this might just be a temporary fix.[/QUOTE]

Rotated the pump slightly and it made a huge different . Started first crank didn't sit on the starter for 10 seconds. It made it over 3k rpm for the first time I've drove it. And made it up to highway speed like it should. But unfortunately the check engine light came on on my trip home. But still drove better afterward. Should I try rotating it a little more.
Looking at the slot in the pump it looked almost fully retarded.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Rotated the pump slightly and it made a huge different . Started first crank didn't sit on the starter for 10 seconds. It made it over 3k rpm for the first time I've drove it. And made it up to highway speed like it should. But unfortunately the check engine light came on on my trip home. But still drove better afterward. Should I try rotating it a little more.
Looking at the slot in the pump it looked almost fully retarded.

Can you see the marks on the ear of the pump? Are they lined up now? Maybe that is the only problem! That would be nice. Just have to line up the two lines. Here is a picture of what you are looking for:

 

[DanRabey]

Took a look when the gf got home it's slightly part the mark more advanced. Does it have to be on the mark? And the check engine light has come one 2 times now only since I adjusted it. But the simple fact of the matter it's still coming on argh

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Took a look when the gf got home it's slightly part the mark more advanced. Does it have to be on the mark? And the check engine light has come one 2 times now only since I adjusted it. But the simple fact of the matter it's still coming on argh

In theory it should be on the mark, yes. This sets the base timing. Once the engine is running, the computer will change the timing as necessary using the timing control valve to advance/retard, and reading position via the pick-up (Ne) sensor. If for some reason the timing control valve does not advance/retard as the computer expects, then you get the check engine error.

In your case I'd say the timing control valve and bottom of your injection pump needs to be cleaned out. This is possible with the pump on the motor. When it gets clogged it can't achieve the full range of timing, so throws the error you're seeing.

 

[DanRabey]

In theory it should be on the mark, yes. This sets the base timing. Once the engine is running, the computer will change the timing as necessary using the timing control valve to advance/retard, and reading position via the pick-up (Ne) sensor. If for some reason the timing control valve does not advance/retard as the computer expects, then you get the check engine error.

In your case I'd say the timing control valve and bottom of your injection pump needs to be cleaned out. This is possible with the pump on the motor. When it gets clogged it can't achieve the full range of timing, so throws the error you're seeing.

Sounds good I'll give it a shot today. Other then using a rag to get it out can I use brake clean or another cleaner . While installed on the engine or not

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Sounds good I'll give it a shot today. Other then using a rag to get it out can I use brake clean or another cleaner . While installed on the engine or not

Don't put a rag in there, as any particle of lint or dirt can cause problems for the injection system. When you pull the timing control valve, all the diesel in the pump will drain out which will flush quite a bit. You can then pump the primer to pass more diesel into the pump and flush more. Brake clean is ok, but just make sure you have diesel back in the pump before you start the engine again (as brake clean will not lubricate it properly). The timing control valve can be cleaned with brake clean too. Make sure it is perfectly clean before you put it back in the pump, like don't even touch the clean end when you put it back in.

Maybe search the hilux surf forums to find examples of guys actually doing this job. I will to and will get back if I find the conversations I'd found on it before.

 

[DanRabey]

Got the ears lined up and it's running worse a

Don't put a rag in there, as any particle of lint or dirt can cause problems for the injection system. When you pull the timing control valve, all the diesel in the pump will drain out which will flush quite a bit. You can then pump the primer to pass more diesel into the pump and flush more. Brake clean is ok, but just make sure you have diesel back in the pump before you start the engine again (as brake clean will not lubricate it properly). The timing control valve can be cleaned with brake clean too. Make sure it is perfectly clean before you put it back in the pump, like don't even touch the clean end when you put it back in.

Maybe search the hilux surf forums to find examples of guys actually doing this job. I will to and will get back if I find the conversations I'd found on it before.

Thanks a million. I did get the ears lined up. And it is running worse. So I will try and get the vavle out tomorrow and cleaned up. If it continues to happen I assume my next suspect would be the tank or lines having crap In them. I did also notice if I can keep my temp below half It doesn't do it , but the shop checked the temp sensor with another one.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Got the ears lined up and it's running worse a



Thanks a million. I did get the ears lined up. And it is running worse. So I will try and get the vavle out tomorrow and cleaned up. If it continues to happen I assume my next suspect would be the tank or lines having crap In them. I did also notice if I can keep my temp below half It doesn't do it , but the shop checked the temp sensor with another one.

When a diesel engine is hotter, it effectively advances ignition timing (diesel ignites faster). The computer will retard the timing more based on the temperature to compensate for this. If it can't retard as much as it wants, then it will go into the error mode.