2lt-ii cracked

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

ShineKNEE

ShineKNEE

Joined
Mar 21, 2024
Threads
2
Messages
31
Location
USA
Hey guys. So after pulling the head, my lj70 needs a new head. Here is my thoughts

Complete restore of the engine

Replacement engine

Sell

I want to restore the engine but I'm having a hard time finding a head.

Good engine options but I'm scared for the electrical and how it should be married up to retain the original astatic.

Selling isn't something I want to do but if the shoe fits


Thoughts, comments, concerns?
 
cruiserpilot said:
Look up any and all threads created by @GTSSportCoupe

Don't dm him, he won't answer. But his knowledge is beyond everything. I think Toyota should pay him for
his research and development.
Click to expand...
Thanks, ive read everything he has in the matter. He's supper knowledgeable. However, not relevant when it comes to 2025. I also have a bone to pick when it comes to this specific genre of LC,'s. Og and these old heads are very dismissive of newer members, telling then look at the documents. I understand that you should do your research, you should also be accepting of new joins.

Either way, if you've got a lead on the parts hit me up (I respond to dms) if not okay shoot your opinion or thoughts on what I should do

Thanks brother man.
 
ShineKNEE said:
Hey guys. So after pulling the head, my lj70 needs a new head. Here is my thoughts

Complete restore of the engine

Replacement engine

Sell

I want to restore the engine but I'm having a hard time finding a head.

Good engine options but I'm scared for the electrical and how it should be married up to retain the original astatic.

Selling isn't something I want to do but if the shoe fits


Thoughts, comments, concerns?
Click to expand...

If the motor ran fine (besides head crack), my recommendation is just replace the head and keep running it.

It's hard to find replacement motors these days. Unless one has documented history, you probably want to count on replacing head anyhow.

Selling as is you'll loose a lot of money. Even a new head on a motor with blow-by would probably reduce your financial losses.

Rebuilding is expensive....and not always a success.

2L and 2LTE (1990+) heads are out of production now. But 3L head is still available and works fine. Partsouq, etc.

I'm not dismissive of new members. (But a lot of what you're asking has been discussed already and recently even.) Only so much time in the day!
But hopefully you can stick around and help answer questions too (as your own experiences builds).

Good luck with it!
 
Within last 2 years, I successfully (through my new best friend diesel mech) replaced the head on my 2lt -
A 1993 lj70 (delivered new to France, then full frame resto in Poland, then to US via Philly. (Go birds!).
Had 170km on it.
Was able to source all the parts, some (radiator, etc) from here and there, but Northwest Toys LLC was real helpful and sourced/drop shipped the new head. (Contact below)
Runs like a top now, and expect it to go forever (albeit getting there slowly)…
(About to reseal the injection pump, which sprung a drip leak)
I’m in mid Atlantic. Glad to chat. I don’t know much technical talk, but glad to chat on my experience.
Love my lj70
Mmcdermott@bergermcdermott.com

Wes Dosey
Northwest Toys
503-569-5739
Sales@northwesttoysllc.com

1739247520191.webp
 
Here is where I would buy a genuine 3L cylinder head from, they are based in Japan: Toyota 11101-54131 (1110154131) HEAD SUB-ASSY, CYLINDER - https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/1110154131

The last guy on here who asked the same question a couple of months ago, even after being told that the 2L-T head was no longer in production, thought he knew better and believed that he was buying an OEM head from a seller in China hiding behind a US business address.

You can get Made in China heads for far cheaper than genuine, but of course you may find yourself back to square one soon after. If you do buy a Chinese head, you probably want to get a machine shop to check the valve seats. I would also put in new genuine valves and use my existing camshaft.

Download the 2L/3L factory service manual, read and understand it before tearing down the engine. Use a genuine gasket kit.
 
Last edited:
When I bought my new head for my 1kzte I was able to purchase it directly from my local Toyota parts counter in Virginia. Ordered via their online parts site and will call picked it up. Took less than a week and I didn’t have to pay shipping. It was also cheaper than Amayama or Partouq. Might be worth a check.
 
Eurasiaoverland said:
Here is where I would buy a genuine 3L cylinder head from, they are based in Japan: Toyota 11101-54131 (1110154131) HEAD SUB-ASSY, CYLINDER - https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/1110154131

The last guy on here who asked the same question a couple of months ago, even after being told that the 2L-T head was no longer in production, thought he knew better and believed that he was buying an OEM head from a seller in China hiding behind a US business address.

You can get Made in China heads for far cheaper, but of course you may find yourself back to square 1 soon after. If you do buy a Chinese head, you probably want to get a machine shop to check the valve seats. I would also put in new genuine valves and use my existing crankshaft.

Download the 2L/3L factory service manual, read and understand it before tearing down the engine. Use a genuine gasket kit.
Click to expand...

Hello,

Well said.







Juan
 
Hi guys,

Sorry for jumping on this , have a 2LT with cracked head. Only 63k on it and the cracks are minimal , no overheating.

All internal parts are good, would it be a straight switch over to the 11101-54131 head, and is it a big job?

Just want to make sure before I pull the trigger. Plan on keeping the truck so want of make sure i put in something that lasts.

Thanks

Gus
 
Last edited:
You say, the cracks are "minimal?" If you have already taken the head off, and see the cracks, I wouldn't go through the trouble of putting a cracked head back on. That certainly would be a waste of time. If you haven't already pulled the head, and you are only driving around town without overheating, you may get away with that for some time, maybe a long time. Monitor your coolant loss. If you want to go on extended camping trips far from home and what not, and if you like your rig, pull the trigger, and put on a new head. Get out the manuals and follow the instructions. It is doable with due diligence. People are willing to help here when you have questions.
 
Dprio34 said:
You say, the cracks are "minimal?" If you have already taken the head off, and see the cracks, I wouldn't go through the trouble of putting a cracked head back on. That certainly would be a waste of time. If you haven't already pulled the head, and you are only driving around town without overheating, you may get away with that for some time, maybe a long time. Monitor your coolant loss. If you want to go on extended camping trips far from home and what not, and if you like your rig, pull the trigger, and put on a new head. Get out the manuals and follow the instructions. It is doable with due diligence. People are willing to help here when you have questions.
Click to expand...
Hi Dprio ,

I should have elaborated more on this.
Yes I have the head off.
The cracks are on 2 of the pre combustion chambers. Im not sure if these can be changed or not.
I am going to get pressure tested to confirm.

We did do a head gasket test and it failed. The gasket is fine.

Is it possible to change the pre combustion chambers or worth while?

Thanks

Gus

Screenshot_20260309_070559_Gallery.webp
 
What do you mean by a head gasket test? Why did you take the head off in the first place? Cracks in the pre-combustion chambers are normal, and do not cause any issues with coolant loss, cooling system pressurisation etc. You are looking for cracks in the bridge between valves, or from the valve seat to the pre-combustion chamber.
 
@Gusman86 , you may also want to update your profile with vehicle type & year as this helps others help you. As stated above, the crack in your photo isn't an issue. You may want to do a "spot check" / dye check or pressure test on the head as well before refitting it to ensure its integrity. (you said, it fail some type of test, so that is why you removed the head).

Definitely, do NOT re-use the old gasket (you said, it was fine). Now you have to ask yourself, to what length do you want to go to prior to re-fitting this head if it passes a thorough inspection. You can skim the head and re-build the valve train. At a minimum, most would probably skim the head prior to re-fitting.
 
Eurasiaoverland said:
What do you mean by a head gasket test? Why did you take the head off in the first place? Cracks in the pre-combustion chambers are normal, and do not cause any issues with coolant loss, cooling system pressurisation etc. You are looking for cracks in the bridge between valves, or from the valve seat to the pre-combustion chamber.
Click to expand...
We tested to confirm if CO2 was getting into the coolant system. There was significant bubbling and the dye changed colour to confirm. This is why we took the head off.

I dropped it off to be pressure tested today. They couldn't identify any cracks by visual inspection and said the small ones on the combustion chamber were ok as you mentioned.

I gave him the gasket and he showed me a spot where it had blown, I wouldn't have known as its not obvious. I thought it had to be cracked.

Ill wait on the pressure test to confirm. Given this is the origional head I was presuming the worst having read theough the other threads and the head issues with the 2lt.

Thanks for the feedback
 
Dprio34 said:
@Gusman86 , you may also want to update your profile with vehicle type & year as this helps others help you. As stated above, the crack in your photo isn't an issue. You may want to do a "spot check" / dye check or pressure test on the head as well before refitting it to ensure its integrity. (you said, it fail some type of test, so that is why you removed the head).

Definitely, do NOT re-use the old gasket (you said, it was fine). Now you have to ask yourself, to what length do you want to go to prior to re-fitting this head if it passes a thorough inspection. You can skim the head and re-build the valve train. At a minimum, most would probably skim the head prior to re-fitting.
Click to expand...

Dprio34 said:
@Gusman86 , you may also want to update your profile with vehicle type & year as this helps others help you. As stated above, the crack in your photo isn't an issue. You may want to do a "spot check" / dye check or pressure test on the head as well before refitting it to ensure its integrity. (you said, it fail some type of test, so that is why you removed the head).

Definitely, do NOT re-use the old gasket (you said, it was fine). Now you have to ask yourself, to what length do you want to go to prior to re-fitting this head if it passes a thorough inspection. You can skim the head and re-build the valve train. At a minimum, most would probably skim the head prior to re-fitting.
Click to expand...
Thanks Dprio, we wont be using the origional gasket. The shop confirmed it was blown today.

It was dropped off to be pressure tested so will wait and see.

I was glad to hear those little cracks are not an issue.

It is the origional head so I was presuming the worst.
 
@Gusman86 , Understood. Most would have came to the same conclusion that you did, that the head had a crack as well. Hope you get some good news today after the head is Pressure Tested and you get it re-fitted soon!
 
There is a LJ70 currently for sale in north ga with a blown head gasket that I was going to check out later this week. I was toying with seeing what other Toyota engines might be an option. Maybe a 3.4 v6!
 
@jblatl , a 22R/RE would probably be a lot easier, but a 3.4 would be cooler! That said, if it really is just the gasket and not a cracked head, (not sure how you will confirm that prior to purchase), replacing the gasket and putting on an intercooler would be easiest, cheapest, and most practical.
 
It will almost certainly be the head and not the gasket. A 5VZ-FE would actually be pretty straightforward from some aspects, since the transmission is already the correct model.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom