2L-TE complete replacement head? (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter 86trooper
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You can get all the parts from Toyota still, but not as a complete head. There are aftermarket heads available with varying levels of quality, IMO those seem rather hit and miss.
- Thread starter
- #3
Guy typically swap their valves over from their old head or just replace with all new valve train? The cam is surface rusted in the head I currently have so I was looking for something somewhat complete. Or I guess just a direction at this point since I can’t seem to find a resource for a complete unit.
Something like this might work, though I’d want to do a little research on the quality of those parts. Toyota 3L/3LT Complete Cylinder Head Kit - https://www.cylinderheads.co.nz/118-Toyota-Dyna-Hiace-Hilux-Toyace-3L-Complete-Cylinder-Head-Kit
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- #5
I will look into that! I also came across this Australian website. Will dig into it as well
Complete Assembled Cylinder Head Kit - Toyota Hilux Surf 4 Runner 2L-TE 2LTE 2.4 Diesel - Mr Cylinder Head
Brand NEW Complete and Assembled Cylinder Head Kit to suit Toyota Hilux Surf and 4 Runner with 2.4L Diesel engines. Engine code: 2LTE, 2L-TE This Professional Cylinder Head Kit Includes: Brand New Completely Assembled Cylinder Head with camshaft Premium VRS Cylinder Head Gasket Set Cylinder Head...
mrcylinderhead.com.au
I will look into that! I also came across this Australian website. Will dig into it as well
Complete Assembled Cylinder Head Kit - Toyota Hilux Surf 4 Runner 2L-TE 2LTE 2.4 Diesel - Mr Cylinder Head
Brand NEW Complete and Assembled Cylinder Head Kit to suit Toyota Hilux Surf and 4 Runner with 2.4L Diesel engines. Engine code: 2LTE, 2L-TE This Professional Cylinder Head Kit Includes: Brand New Completely Assembled Cylinder Head with camshaft Premium VRS Cylinder Head Gasket Set Cylinder Head...
So, at the price point, that’s all China-com.
Caveat emptor.
If you are committed to the L series engine family, buy the Toyota stuff and cry once.
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That's what I figured. Pretty sure there is still a 2L-TE head available from Toyota, as well as a 3L head. Those would all be bare heads though, correct?
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- #8
It sounds like it’s about half as much to install a new oem head as to buy a Jdm 1kz.. but simplicity wise it seems putting a head on the L series would be the quickest route. I never seem to come across a definitive answer on swapping the 1kz into my prado without rewiring or having some transmission control issues.
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- #9
This is how I received the vehicle. The cylinder head has been pulled off it quite some time, that’s just ATF soaking in the cylinders freeing up some carbon buildup. Can still see crosshatch in the cylinders even and the deck surface appears to be in good shape under the dust buildup. It’s in super good shape and the L series only shows 90k on the odometer.
Correct. Both are still available and both would be bare heads. They would need to be "built"
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If the open engine block been exposed so long that so much dirt has built up on the top surface, that block needs the oil galleries very thoroughly cleaning imo. Which would require stripping the engine fully.
The coolant passages also look like they need acid cleaning, though this should be done with the engine assembled. I'd want to pull the oil cooler too, to look for blockages. There's not really any room for error in the cooling system of a 2L-T.
The coolant passages also look like they need acid cleaning, though this should be done with the engine assembled. I'd want to pull the oil cooler too, to look for blockages. There's not really any room for error in the cooling system of a 2L-T.
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And what is this jagged vertical mark in #1 the cylinder bore?
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- #15
I’m inspecting that tonight actually. It looked like a crack at first but there is zero seam. It’s almost like a water etch. See tonight though
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Apologies for the double post.
If you can't wipe that mark off, I would assume that it's a crack. No scratch from dirt in the rings or piston skirt wear would look like that. It could be taken to a machine shop for magnaflux checking if you can't catch an edge on it with a fine point.
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- #17
Could be sleeved I’m sure? I’ve had that done before
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If it's a crack, I would scrap it. But a good machine shop could give you a more informed opinion. I'd be worried that the crack either already extends up to the deck of the block, or will propagate up there in future, potentially undermining the head gasket. I don't thnk you could pin the ends of the crack given the location. I'm not sure what the situation is in the US, but where I'm from it's easy and cheap to get a dead 2L and use the block from that.
Anyhow, here's hoping it's not a crack.
Anyhow, here's hoping it's not a crack.
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Ah great, that's a relief then.
