2L-T engine

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No I was at least the 4th owner so how well it was taken care of from '91 to '02 is a lottery. I cant say for sure what caused mine to crack because the timing belt snapped. On removal of the head to see about the damage I found the cracks. Up till then she had been using a small amount of water but not overheating. Sold it and bought 2 old BJs to amuse me.

**edit** timing belt was only 4,000miles old but wasnt genuine and was fitted by a DIY enthusiast (i.e. me :o ) so who knows
 
Wayne,


Thats why people recommend buyers to you! Thats good service right there!!



Greg_B said:
This is good, Wayne.

Perhaps emphisize that maintenance/full working effiecency of the cooling system with the L series is as important as watching the EGT's.

Has anyone ever tested redlines Water Wetters claims of dropping temps?

gb


GB,

I ran water wetter in the 61, and did not notice much of a change (if any) in the temps. Mind you, I didn't run the 61 long without it, so not much to compair with. Always ran steady temps, regardless of situation.
 
Does the 2LT have pre-cups, or did they drop them (no pun intended), like they did with the 12HT and 13BT?

Thanks

gb
 
Greg_B said:
Perhaps emphisize that maintenance/full working effiecency of the cooling system with the L series is as important as watching the EGT's.

Worth rodding out the radiator - a lot of the jap imports have clogged cores. At the same time, check the top tank - Toyota got a bad batch of brass somewhere and the tanks can go porous - while the tanks off is a good time to replace it...
 
what kind of mileage for the LJ78 SX5 prado with the electonically controlled engine ???
would an intercooler help??
thinking of buying one.
 
i remain interested in an LJ78 but have not got the wife interested yet.

anyway, just an observation, but the 1fze gas motor in the 80 series is also prone to head gasket problems. there are several reasons and suggestions developed over time on the 80s forum that might provide insight or assistance here. fwiw, here are the 80 series "learnings"

1. the main one is that you won't have any problems so long as your coolant system is running perfectly. in the chicken and egg debate, I think the conclusion i have have reached from post mortems I have followed is that for 80s overheating blows h/g's rather than the overheating being a symptom of a blown h/g. also, it is often slight overheating fatigue rather than one single big overheat.

2. toyota red coolant does not mix with other green coolants and forms a gooey mess blocking coolant passages. you must do a complete flush of any new 1fz 80 including heater core you buy unless you know it has always had one or the other type of coolant. maybe that should be step one with a prado as well.

3 you cannot trust toyota factory temp gauges to tell you you are in trouble until it is too late. 80s have "numb" factory temp gauges (it says so in kanji on the back). on a 93-94 there is no gauge response from 140 to 215 degrees, and you are at 225 by the time you get to 3/4 hot on the gauge. on a 95-97 the gauge is numb from 170 to 230. It is at 260 when it hits the red line. you need an aftermarket temp gauge to spot problems so Crushers pyrometer idea seems to me to be an excellent idea.

3. blocked rads are fairly common in 80s not only from coolant sludge but a mysterious grey grit that could be some kind of crystalized residue from coolant or some kind of chemical reaction to metals in the coolant system. I get some in the overflow even if I clean out the overflow. there has been speculation that toyota red causes it.

4. the original fan clutch on 80s can head south leaving you with limited or no function. toyota has changed the fan clutch part to a more robust aisin model. no idea if the 2LT has a fan clutch, but it is possible.

5. no idea if it will work in a diesel but slee offroad swears by a "bubbles" in the rad overflow tank test for early signs of h/g failure on a 1fz. pop the lid, keep the line immersed and watch for bubbles. time and again others have seen it even when leakdown tests etc.. have been inconclusive. i can verify mine does not blow bubbles...

6. a $20 mail in engine oil sample analysis from www.blackstone-labs.com will tell you if there is any anti-freeze in your engine oil along with a bunch of other interesting details. again, maybe an early step with a new to you 2LT prado.

7. although it seems a bit extreme, a couple of people have done 1fz h/g replacements as PM. there is a part # changeover and the replacement h/g is noticably more robust and the design near the #6 cylinder that typically blows has changed. Again, it might be worth checking whether there has been a pn# changeover on the 2LT head gasket.

still thinking about a 2LT
 
13Sep2005 (UTC +8)

FWIW, I just saw about 3 of those 2L-TE engines in a surplus shop here in Manila for about US$ 3,500... they said the price was still negotiable though. I was looking for one to buy so I can put a turbo on my Hilux's 3L, then just sell the rest of the parts.
 
13Sep2005 (UTC +8)

Ooppss, sorry about that! I meant US$ 2,500 for the 2L-T engine with manual tranny... the $3,500 was for the 14B engine, if I remember correctly.
 
Drexx Are there any 12HT engines over there?
 
zander said:
Drexx Are there any 12HT engines over there?

Yup, but it's not as common as the B, KZ, & HD-T engines (for the LC), nor the L series (for Hilux and variants). Any H series engine is a prized possession here. All parts are available though, and some Toyota even stocks because said parts are common on various engine models.
 
crushers said:
so after doing yet more research into the 2L-T engine it seems that some of the earlier models 85-57 had head gasket problems (bad oil leakage). the ones since 1988 were to be much better.
it also seems from what i can tell that the head crackign problems is directly associated with driver abuse, i.e. over heating.

so here is what Luxury is going to do to combat this concern. we will be drafting up a pamphlet for driving tips and installing a pyrometer into all Hilux and LJ71 and LJ78 model trucks we bring in. any trucks that are 1987 and older we will replace the head gasket prior to selling the unit (very simular to changing out the BEB on the HDJ engines) to prevent the problem before it occurs.

i hope this will alleviate any concerns about these fuel efficient engines.

cheers

The head cracking is not down to driver abuse generally, just down to bad design. The head surface is too near to the aterways. Later heads had a slightly thicker casting which somewhat cured the problem.

There has been talk of a incompatibility between the cooalnd used in Japan and used elsewhere - however I had a 2LTE engine which cracked a head after 1 year in the UK, always driven kindly, had a completely cooling system flush and refill the moment I got it (new into the UK), had regular oil and filter changes. Possibly already cracked when imported.

Straight 2L engines seem to be stronger, it seems that the additional heat and an uneven heat pattern on the heads caused by fitting the Turbo, plus EGR failures, seem to contribute to the head problems.

Just for a bit of additional info, a few 1KZTE engines have started cracking the heads as well in the UK although not as high a percentage as on the 2LT and 2LTE engines.

On another forum I Co-run, we did a poll across more than 3000 users and on average it seems about 20-25% of all 2LT/TE engines crack the heads within 2 years of being imported - this on mainly 1990 - 1993 cars.
 
excellent information, thanks.
could the cracking heads have anything to do with driving style in the UK vs Japan?
cheers
 
harveye great info -- thanks. is anyone over there running mechanical gauges and monitoring coolant temperature on these motors? Do they overheat before they crack or just let go?

also, can you elaborate on the EGR failure issue. that is something the 1fz gas motor has frequently but no one has ever linked it to h/g'failure. normally the modulator diaphragm fails and allows raw exhaust into the vacuum lines which, apart from causing valve failure, blocks the lines, corrodes the metal fittings, shorts out the VSV
 
Hi everybody!

Wayne, the driving in uk is usualy pretty slow due to shtty roads! And lots of trafic! Top speed on the motorway is 70mph, and it's not always possible! Tons of speed cameras everywhere too!


Bye.

Max.
 
Huumm I can think in cracked heads here in Panamá with a lots of traffic in the town, and 32ºC at summer with 90% humidity .. but in UK ..
 

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