2H Wont Start

[Methusalem]

Just as an afterthought, because the problem is solved. Don't worry too much about air bleeding the fuel system of a diesel. I had a problem in Venezuela with air in the system (see "midnight repairs in the middle of nowhere" thread). It turned out to be a broken tube between the tank and the body.
Fact is, that I kept on going downhill while the engine slowly died. So with that I emptied the fuel system totally of diesel a few times. But the only thing I had to do to get it running again, was turn open the air nipple of the fuel filter and use the hand pump to fill the filter again. After that it started within a few second and kept running. Till the fuel line was empty again, of course. So no bleeding of the injectors and all. Just my 2cents

 

[Tim-HJ61]

I agree that most of the time it will kick over and fire, roughly at first, then pick up all cylinders.

But if you go back to the first posting, he says he has tried that, flattened his batteries in the process. Hence the long series of postings working through the whole system, and it may have been a shorted out electrical connection to his glow plugs in the end.

Generally as long as all you have replaced is the filter, then a few pumps on the primer with the filter bleed valve open is all that is needed.

Tim

 

[superdupercoope]

I'm hoping someone could help.

I have the dual filter setup, so would there be 2 screws or is it still one? Mine has 2 different screw but I only did the one that had a nipple on it. The other one is horizontal and square so I didn't bother touching that one.

After bleeding the filter and then IP, the primer starts getting hard to pump but I do not see any fuel coming out of the injector lines where I disconnected at the injectors.
Am I missing something?

Also when I changed out the fuel filter cartridges, I noticed the ones inside were shorter than the stock ones I ordered. The o-ring for the bolt didn't look like it would seal so I ended up using the old ones. The compression required to put the filters back on was pretty tough, not sure if this is normal.

 

[duncanrm]

After bleeding the filter and then IP, the primer starts getting hard to pump but I do not see any fuel coming out of the injector lines where I disconnected at the injectors.
Am I missing something?

No fuel will come out at the injectors unless the engine is cranking.. even then, you wont see much at all.

The dual cannister setup sucks, if the chance to grab a screw on housing comes up, get it.

 

[superdupercoope]

thanks! I just got it to work!
Just had to crank it a few times and then let some air out of the line and repeat.

Do you have a part number that would be a good replacement? Not sure if it's easily swappable with the hard lines.
I think I see single vs dual.. any good reason to go with either?

 

[duncanrm]

thanks! I just got it to work!
Just had to crank it a few times and then let some air out of the line and repeat.

Do you have a part number that would be a good replacement? Not sure if it's easily swappable with the hard lines.
I think I see single vs dual.. any good reason to go with either?

Yeah, the two hard fuel lines would also be required, although in a pinch you could get a hydraulic hosemaker to knock up a couple of suitable braided lines with the banjos etc. I dont have a part number. Its a screw on housing. Single screw on filter. Toyota abandoned that dual cannister housing after a few years of production, at about the same time the oil centrifuge above the oil filter was also discontinued.

The single screw on filter housing and lines are readily available in Australia from wreckers, guessing not so easy in North America.

I'm not sure I like the description of the force required to install your new filters - warning bells sounding, its possible you've crushed a filter in the housing if it was the wrong length.

 

[duncanrm]

In Australia the filter people buy for the dual filter housing is a Ryco R2423P. I believe this translates to any of:

• AC-DELCO ACF26
• BALDWIN MPR22
• DONALDSON P551339
• FLEETGUARD FF5385
• MANN P7182X
• SAKURA F1106

 

[superdupercoope]

That actually looks like the filters I just took out! Thank you!
Do people also retro-remove the centrifuge? I have to change the o-rings on it on my next oil change as it's leaking..

Trying to get the rig a little more bulletproof and ease of maintenance.

 

[duncanrm]

That actually looks like the filters I just took out! Thank you!
Do people also retro-remove the centrifuge? I have to change the o-rings on it on my next oil change as it's leaking..

Trying to get the rig a little more bulletproof and ease of maintenance.

The oil centrifuge was a great bit of kit when new, but good luck getting it to seal again - even with new O-Rings. I ended up pulling the centrifuge off my tourer. You will need a replacement oil filter housing from an early 2H to delete the centrifuge, its an easy job to change the oil filter housing though.

 

[duncanrm]

Also, if you're looking for reliability.. consider a pre-emptive delete of the factory fuel sedimenter and replacement with an engine bay based sedimenter/filter.

 

[superdupercoope]

noted! that's another thing I cleaned last time but thought it would be a pain to maintain.
please accept this virtual beer until we make it out there
thanks a bunch! really don't' know what I would have done without this forum.