2H EDIC question

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I am about ready to fire up my 2H that I put in my FJ40. I got a 12 volt EDIC from OZ. here is my question. I do not have any relays so I am starting from scratch. The EDIC has 4 wires, red-yellow-white-green. I understand how the EDIC works. No power -shuts off fuel. A run position and an enriched fuel position. How can I wire this and make it work?
 
Use a relay to transfer power from the fuse box. Have it set up to turn on with the igntion sw. That power will be run pos.

Use a second relay that only gets power when the ignition sw is turned to start. That will be overinjection.

the others wires may be ground. I am not sure how the set up will work, but you can play, moving the wires to the positive side of the battery in order, imitating start up.

Pull power off and see if it returns to stop pos.

I think with 2 extra relays, fused to the panel. And set up with your key it should work fine.

The wiring diagram is really vague on the use of these wires.
 
I finally got it fired up. If i put 12 volt direct to each wire , nothing happens. The fourth wire makes it run- stop -run- enrich- run -stop rapidly. Any ideas?
 
Please explain a bit more. Are you touching this forth wire on and off of power?

With out actually starting the engine. Just put power to this wire. The edic goes from stop to run POS. you remove power it goes to stop? or enrich?

Try adding other wires(putting them to power) when the 4th wire is powered. See if you can figure out the formula.

Plus I imagine one wire is a ground. Try with a meter touching each wire and also touching the housing of the edic for ground. (contimuity). Also ring each wire out to each other to help find circuits. See if you get resistenace in any of the wires to each other.

Hope this helps. Other than that, maybe you can get a edic relay off of someone here.
 
The blue wire supplies power to the edic and makes it move back and forth constantly while power is supplied.The unit is grounded by the mount to the engine. According to the 2H engine manual, the other three wires when combined in pairs of two should make the edic move to one of three positions, no fuel, run and enriched run. I have tried all cobinations with no luck. You can only put power to the blue wire, the others will short. I have tried this with both a 12 and 24 volt edic with the same result. The chasis manual shows the feeds to the edic relay but it does not describe what happens inside the relay.
 
You could try to get a edic relay to control it. Maybe some one can help you here with that.

Other than that you could install a manual on off cable. But you might loose the overinject function. And you need to be pretty close to the degrees of angle on the injection pump lever as stated in the FSM.

I just cannot help you anymore with wires as I have never touched one of those and I am making presumptions on its operation.............lets hope someone else can chime in?????
 
brownbear said:
Other than that you could install a manual on off cable. But you might loose the overinject function.

And you would lose the low oil pressure shutdown.

gb
 
Si You would. Then maybe a you could wire a warning buzzer(or light) thru a small Normally closed relay(one that with power on in the field the relay does not have continuity). With no field coil power the relay is closed and the power flows from the main posts, A1-A2......with the field coil connections being x1 and x2.

The power wire that goes to the oil pressure switch gets it ground thru the switch when it is on with oil pressure. If you ran this wire thru the field circuit of a normally open relay...when the engine is running(with oil ox) the field coil on the relay would be energized and the relay would not have continuity. When the engine loses oil pressure, the field collaspes and the relay circuit on the main wires becomes closed. SO the buzzer or light turns on.

I would do the light. A red one. Because the buzzer would go every shut down and start up, also if you just had the key on.

Also I would use ignition power for the relay, so it is only on with the key.

It would be a basic mod to do.......1.5 bananas.....
 
here is something I found interesting....my bj40...24 volts...will fill function with 12 volt....what I mean is the edic worked when there was only 12 volts available

....it would shut the engine off and it would turn the edic to start and overinj. when it was tried with only 12 volts ...of course it would not start but the edic functined normally even though it only had 12 volts .

It even shut off the engine when there was only 8 volts available !!

HTH'S , Daryl
 
what I meant to say is you should try the 24 volt edic relay before you try and hunt down a 12 edic relay

Daryl
 
I spent 2 hours with the electrical wizard today. I showed him the stuff from the 2 shop manuals and he said this should be easy. WRONG- no go, same problems as i had. We tried everything and no go. What the heck-we will take it apart and see. The electric motor spins this disc with three races. an inner middle and outer. the outer is always grounded, the middle has about 3/4 grounded and 1/4 open. There are 4 wires, one for power and one to each race. The arm moves acording to which one or pair is grounded- not which one has power. we got it to work manually and ran out of time. We think that we can make a system with 2 or three relays that will ground when power is put to that relay. I will keep you posted. toyota wants about 700 bucks for their EDIC relay.
 
rapovt said:
I spent 2 hours with the electrical wizard today. I showed him the stuff from the 2 shop manuals and he said this should be easy. WRONG- no go, same problems as i had. We tried everything and no go. What the heck-we will take it apart and see. The electric motor spins this disc with three races. an inner middle and outer. the outer is always grounded, the middle has about 3/4 grounded and 1/4 open. There are 4 wires, one for power and one to each race. The arm moves acording to which one or pair is grounded- not which one has power. we got it to work manually and ran out of time. We think that we can make a system with 2 or three relays that will ground when power is put to that relay. I will keep you posted. toyota wants about 700 bucks for their EDIC relay.


most definately post up pictures and a write up on the inner workings of this edic motor. Also which offending wire gives power. As this will be the wire to cut into for a kill switch.
 
Greg_B said:
And you would lose the low oil pressure shutdown.

gb

My 2H has a manual choke, it wasn't until the other day that I was told there was a low pressure shutdown by a guy who also has a 2H. Where is the sensor located for that? Is it easy to get to and then rig something up like the warning light being discussed?

John
 
I tried to hook up the EDIC on my 3B, but ended up going with a manual setup. I hooked up a PTO cable to the EDIC lever with two Crosby Clips. I pull it all the way back for over-inject starting, push it in a bit once it's running, and push it all the way in to shut off. I mounted a return spring to pull the lever back to the off position once I push the knob in. It works well and doesn't involve any electronics--one of the reasons I decided to do a deisel swap.
 
caution for anyone going manual instead of using an edic. If the lever is anywhere near overinjection you might get too much fuel and fa_ck the engine with overheating. Too much fuel.

It is very specific in the FSM how to rig the lever on the injection pump. I hope your manual set up gets you in the specified degrees.
 
It is not an exact science with the manual setup, but I have mechanical water temp. and egt guages. At first I had to play with the position of the lever a bit and moniter the guages closely. Now that I have been running the setup for a couple months I can get the position right just about every time. If it is too far in it is sluggish, and if it is too far out it spits black smoke and heats the egt's up. So if you pay attention to this I don't see a problem with it. I am open to thoughts on this, however.

EDIC with no E = DIC!
 

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