2H Compression Numbers Opionions Please!

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"cabled" to a tree sounds like a wayne'ism, coupled? connected? attached?... cabled works for me though.

i am sure we all will get a chance to try out our winches...
 
Radd Cruisers said:
Pull the plugs, Seafoam the cylinders overnight, spin it over to get the stuff out of the cylinders, stick the plugs back in and call it good...
Click to expand...

I've got an H (not 2H) in my 1980 Troopy. It ran like crap when it arrived last fall. I parked it Cylinder #5 was way out of whack when I compression tested it last fall.

I followed John's Seafoam instructions above and it's a completely different truck. It still had a slightly rough idle so I ran a two cans of Diesel Purge through the injection system. An oil change and a valve adjustment and it's purring along perfectly now.

I did a cold leakdown test on all 6 cylinders. All cylinders are losing 7 or 8 psi. I have no idea if this is good or bad. At least they are all consistent.

Compression is 379 - 395 across the board on all cylinders now. I think the cylinder walls might be glazed since the crankcase vapors can get pretty bad at idle.
 
Well an Update 2 years and 50,000KMs later

I have been having a lot more blue smoke on startup getting a little embarrssing! and harder starts in the cold. I did a compression test today and got about 10 psi lower across all the cylinders except # 2 which is down to 415PSI. which makes it about a 20% difference from #5 @ 520PSI.


the Injector line for #3 was leaking at the top of the pump but I tightened it up to factory specs and appears to have stopped leaking. I don't think that was related to the blue smoke as the compression on #3 was still good. I ran the truck for a few minutes prior to doing the compression test to see if the injector pump was leaking. when I pulled the glow pulgs all of them where dry expect cylinder #2 which was wet oily and black.

Should I take this as my 2H is dying a slow but steady death?

Milage is 210,000KM
 
nope, test the glow plugs and keep on enjoying it.
better yet turbo the poor girl she might like the extra oxygen!!
 
CDN_Cruzer said:
the Injector line for #3 was leaking at the top of the pump but I tightened it up to factory specs and appears to have stopped leaking. I don't think that was related to the blue smoke as the compression on #3 was still good. I ran the truck for a few minutes prior to doing the compression test to see if the injector pump was leaking. when I pulled the glow pulgs all of them where dry expect cylinder #2 which was wet oily and black.

Should I take this as my 2H is dying a slow but steady death?
Click to expand...

A leaky injection line could be a suspect for air getting into the system. Air in the injection pump will cause smoke at startup.

The oily glow plug could be defective too.
 
I'm with Rufus also.
A leaking high pressure line over night will cause that cylinder to mis-fire till the pressure can open the fuel nozzle and spray correctly . Glow plugs that don't glow properly on the tips that protrude into the precup area (from old to poor currant / power) then that cylinder will have a smoking / rough start till combustion . That cylinder also will get fuel oil soaked,causing the piston ring lands to have a slight build up of carbon. That just there can cause a lower compression , good starts , good oil / changes should clean any slightly stuck rings..

Diagnose slow and methodically before any rash rebuilds.

VT
 
Sounds good! I put the glow plugs back in different cylinder as my multimeter is up north. see if the same one is wet in another cylinder.

think I might seafoam soak again.
 
A real quick way to check a glow plug is with jumper cables. I do it that way on my glow plugs (12v system non-superglow using 8.5v plugs.) They will glow nice and hot fairly quickly this way if they are working properly.
 
Rufus , You are doing this testing of the glows out of the engine , one at a time and counting the seconds , watching the tip turn bright red ??

VT

Just so all can follow.
 
that is how i do it when i am thinking of going to manual glow system...
VTCDN said:
Rufus , You are doing this testing of the glows out of the engine , one at a time and counting the seconds , watching the tip turn bright red ??

VT

Just so all can follow.
Click to expand...
 
VTCDN said:
Rufus , You are doing this testing of the glows out of the engine , one at a time and counting the seconds , watching the tip turn bright red ??
Click to expand...

Yes. Easy and quick way to see if a plug is dead when you don't have a multimeter handy.

An interesting thing I noticed between two brands of plugs while testing this way is that the hot spot in the tip of the plug is located in different places. I don't recall which brand glowed at the very tip of the plug and which glowed about half-way up the tip. I was surprised to see such a difference.
 
Yes Gent's , This is why I asked the question, Not for me , but so all can understand and follow.
The reason that the jumper / booster cables are used is for delivery of major power without any voltage drops or limiters.Myself I grab the pos end first since its smaller on the plug for better accurate gripping and then the neg clamp to the body of the glow plug, count and watch.

My 3B needs the tip to get hot, mid way is not what the plug and the precup were designed to work together. Just like spark plugs (I know ,swearing) many fit into the threaded holes but only a few were designed for THAT hole.

Now , Im only playing with a 3B here in Toyota land, The euro diesels are different advanced system over the very basic 3B, so to keep everyone on the same page.

I was asking so no one mis-read / understood .

VT
 
Thanks for the help guys! It was -7 here last night I went out this morning and the truck fired right up with no blue smoke just a little white took it for a drive and it's running so nice! I cant believe it was all from the leaky injector lines!

I am thinking about pulling the injectors and getting them tested.

I if i have time i will test the glow plugs this week.

Thanks again!
 
I pulled the injectors took them in to get tested. 3 where ok but had a crappy spray pattern and 3 where opening up early in the mid 90's supposed to be 105-115.

I am getting them cleaned up and reset.

was thinking I could test the glow plugs in place now becasue I can see the tips

thinking I should unplug the EDIC so I don't start pumping diesel into my face @ 1700PSI correct?

does anyone know where I can get the little crush washers for re-installing the injectors?

thanks again for all the help it's wonderful to have a helpful community!
 
was going to disconnect the EDIC system so it doesn't turn on the injector pump? as I have all the injector lines apart right now and don't want it to start pumping or does the engine need to turn over for that to happen??
 
turning key on does not inject fuel
turning the engine over will...
 
great no need to disconnect then.

Wayne you know anywhere localish I can get those Crush washers?

guy who is doing the injectors said he might have something just have to bring him the old washers .
 
I would remove all power buss bars to the glows , and test each one by itself .

Power to one plug @ a time, see it pink on the tip in ~~? seconds.

Do them all together , your lost , and the bad ones just get missed.

VT

Edited for English ;)

Doing the work twice costs 3 times .
 
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