2f and swampers

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Joined
Feb 3, 2006
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74
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Location
Weatherford, OK
As you may know by now I'm building up my 74 fj40 to take to Silvertonm, CO this summer and that i plan on having a 4" lift and 2 1/2" shackles running new 33x10.50 or 12.50 swampers (not sure which size or model yet) with no power steering. Im wondering which series tire to buy, which size, and radial or bias. Also on a different note, I got a newer (78 maybe) with this thing with a 2f. I plan to rebuild the 2f this winter and want to make it all it can be. Keeping a bit of a budget in mind what mods and upgrades should I do during this overhaul? Thanks
 
i did not know you were planning this build.........



but i do now, keep up the good work.....
 
i have a skyjacker 4" with stock length shackles, a stock F engine, and i'm running the 33x10.5 tls radial. i chose the 10.5 over the 12.5 simply because the 10.5 will dig better. they are on a 8" rim, but i wish i had 7" rims just to make them stand even taller and skinnier. the F doesn't have any trouble spinning them in the mud.
I dont really drive my cruiser around town anymore so i wish i would have gotten the bias-ply, but oh well. the tires work well on the trail, and i've munched them on stumps and rocks and never tore a sidewall..... i did bust one off the bead once.
 
That is a relatively tall lift for only 33" tires - they will look small. Wider tires tend to be more difficult to steer and control on the highway without power steering.

I would convert to power steering while you are at it. It is the single best mod you can make. Lots of good kits available, thousands of posts on MUD - you won't regret it.

I would look at the 34" LTB - might fit better with your lift plans - probably be easier to go SOA and run 35" tires but to each his own.
 
where's cam... he's gonna say it... i know he is.

i'm running 35x12.5r15 bfgs on my 40 with no powersteering, i don't find them difficult to steer or control on the highway at all. i find i'm able to just point them in the right direction and they'll go. then again the previous owner did extensive work to the steering to get it nice and tight.
 
I've run 33X12.5's on my 40 for years w/o PS. Steering wasn't a problem on the highway, only at low speed. They did tend to grab every groove in the road, the shackle reversal made a world of difference with that.
 
if you are going to be spending a fair amount of time on the road with this vehicle, I would suggest going with a radial tire.


:beer:
 
I ran the 33x10.5 and the 33x12.5 radial swampers on basically the same set up. It only took me one trip to Tellico to get the power steering set up! Mini truck set up will work fine with 33's. Run a p/s cooler to help save the pump. Mine is presently turning 35x12.5 MTR's and works fine. On a 74 with the F you will have to move the Alt. to the other side of the motor and it can be done with all of the stock brackets from a newer truck. You will need the smog pump bracket from the newer truck as well (p/s pump mounts to this). Good luck. Oh, if your rear hasn't been cut then you will want to run the 10.5's.

Later,
 
haystax said:
That is a relatively tall lift for only 33" tires - they will look small. Wider tires tend to be more difficult to steer and control on the highway without power steering.

I would convert to power steering while you are at it. It is the single best mod you can make. Lots of good kits available, thousands of posts on MUD - you won't regret it.

I would look at the 34" LTB - might fit better with your lift plans - probably be easier to go SOA and run 35" tires but to each his own.
I only plan on using this lift setup because it is my understanding thats what most of ccot's show rigs have on them with 33x1050s and i really like that look. However if I am wrong about this please feel free to let me know since i dont want to go any taller than that. Thanks for all the input
 
I love my 33x10.50 boggers, but I've only got 2.5" lift with stock shackles. They stuff up in the fenderwells but don't rub at full articulation. That might just be because my springs are just now starting to soften up and flex well. Sloppy non-power steering means they wander a bit, but not real bad.

Once you get new springs and shackles, you'll be in about $1500, right? If you're handy with a wrench at all, you should just spring over. I thought about staying sprung under with my next lift, but springover has so many advantages and isn't much more, if you don't do power steering, front axle swap, etc that many people do at the same time.

If you're set on staying sprung under, I second the 34x9.50 LTBs. If you trim the rear a bit you can fit 35s. If you're doing the 4" lift and 2.5inch shackles, 33s might be a little small.
 
Rocknroll said:
I only plan on using this lift setup because it is my understanding thats what most of ccot's show rigs have on them with 33x1050s and i really like that look. However if I am wrong about this please feel free to let me know since i dont want to go any taller than that. Thanks for all the input


I'm not saying that a lift spring and ext shackle setup is right or wrong, just not the way I chose to go about mine. My personal opinion is that extended shackles are gimmicks and lead to too much leverage against the springs and makes stock non-power steering even worse.

Not saying SOA is better, there are tradeoffs with both types of lift. I chose SOA because it was cheaper for me to do myself and I was confident that I could accomplish it. It isn't easy or better.

If you like it and it fits your budget then do it - as for tires, I would go with radials rather than bias swampers if you drive on road a lot, my TSLs flat spot and it can be annoying to drive that way every morning until they warm up.
 
The problem with blanket statements like "extended shackles are gimmicks" is that they are not always so..

A better statement would be
Extended shackles have their place but as a way to "lift" the truck you tend to start causing other issues (like pos caster)

If you have lift springs then you almost always should have some sort of extended shackle to deal with the increased arch.

Where is that link to the dude with stock shackles and lift springs. He wanted to know why they inverted on him..

There is not a specific length of shackle that matches everyone's desires. They need to be tailored to your rig..
 
Mace said:
The problem with blanket statements like "extended shackles are gimmicks" is that they are not always so..

A better statement would be
Extended shackles have their place but as a way to "lift" the truck you tend to start causing other issues (like pos caster)

If you have lift springs then you almost always should have some sort of extended shackle to deal with the increased arch.

Where is that link to the dude with stock shackles and lift springs. He wanted to know why they inverted on him..

There is not a specific length of shackle that matches everyone's desires. They need to be tailored to your rig..


Good call...I wasn't specific enough to expand on the "gimmick" aspect. Longer shackles and a repositioned mounting location may cure a lot of ride issues in fact.
 

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