295/70r17 on 35mm offset? (1 Viewer)

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I am not seeing anything in search does anyone know if the 295/70r 17 works well on a +35mm offset looking to get a decent all terrain for my LX. Specifically I am looking at the alpha wheels and a Maxxis razr at (33.5”).

I am assuming minor fender lining massaging and probably mud flap removal. I didn’t know about uca etc.
 
I am not seeing anything in search does anyone know if the 295/70r 17 works well on a +35mm offset looking to get a decent all terrain for my LX. Specifically I am looking at the alpha wheels and a Maxxis razr at (33.5”).

I am assuming minor fender lining massaging and probably mud flap removal. I didn’t know about uca etc.

Should be drop in with some very mild plastic splash guard bending.

While i would seriously push you into that +35 offset, IMO a 295 tire is too wide for an 8.5" wheel.
It will not be as stable and exhibit lateral sway as well as make your ride MORE harsh due to the increase in artificial tension on the sidewall.
Good for off road use but sucks for on road dynamics. On road you are looking for a square fitment.
Somewhere in the middle is where i would go but for a 295 i would want an 18x9" minimum wheel.

Just my two cents. Im sure people will disagree.
 
I have 285/70-17 on the +35 Alpha wheels on my ‘13 LX. I had to do quite a lot of front mud flap work, I still may take them off. My 0.02, you will lose more then you will gain going to a 295/70-17 instead of a 285/70-17.

92D54E43-0A14-4790-AA58-4435ABBE5EB4.jpeg
 
I have 285/70-17 on the +35 Alpha wheels on my ‘13 LX. I had to do quite a lot of front mud flap work, I still may take them off. My 0.02, you will lose more then you will gain going to a 295/70-17 instead of a 285/70-17.

View attachment 3000507

If Cole is referring to the front air dam here, the very very front square of plastic then yes, those def do gotta go. There are options to tuck the front tire rear splash guard but heatgun molding should be enough for anything under 34”. Mine scratch ar full lock in reverse and ive never bothered dealing with it. And i could use more caster too.
 
If Cole is referring to the front air dam here, the very very front square of plastic then yes, those def do gotta go. There are options to tuck the front tire rear splash guard but heatgun molding should be enough for anything under 34”. Mine scratch ar full lock in reverse and ive never bothered dealing with it. And i could use more caster too.
I had to work the front mud flap rear of the front tire quite a bit. I’ll probably remove them but wanted to keep them as with the +35 offset my paint would get hammered without flaps. ordered some rally style soft ones from
Amazon.

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A38DBB6E-11C2-4DD6-9A7B-D4B89192B823.jpeg




732569FA-5FDC-41EB-B51E-8ACE37C0056B.jpeg
 
Should be drop in with some very mild plastic splash guard bending.

While i would seriously push you into that +35 offset, IMO a 295 tire is too wide for an 8.5" wheel.
It will not be as stable and exhibit lateral sway as well as make your ride MORE harsh due to the increase in artificial tension on the sidewall.
Good for off road use but sucks for on road dynamics. On road you are looking for a square fitment.
Somewhere in the middle is where i would go but for a 295 i would want an 18x9" minimum wheel.

Just my two cents. Im sure people will disagree.

If we were talking cars, I would agree, but for off-road AT tires, a 295 is perfect for a 8.5 wheel.

295/70r17 spec fitments generally allow for 7.5" - 10" wide wheels. I would highly discourage being on any wider of a wheel as bead retention when airing down is a thing. Being on the narrow end is a good poor mans beadlock. In my experience running even wider tires on narrower wheels, it makes for a plusher ride as it puts the sidewall in a more curved profile better able to absorb bumps.
 
Definitely advantageous for off-road @TeCKis300 I'm with you there.

Theres a lot of grey area with comfort on road though.
IMO both outcomes are possible when pressure is accounted for.
Additional tension in the sidewall would be counter to comfort as it increases effective spring rate through the same principle that is aiding bead retention locking the sidewall in place. Again PSI is a real rabbit hole, but no contest on my part with you these are just some of my observations.

@tbisaacs if those are Tundra 18x8s you must be running a pretty high PSI? Theres barely any squish. E load most likely helps keep sidewall rigid though.

Again theres a lot of variables here. OP if off-road is priority i dont see any real limit to width in regards to wheel size unless exceeding manuf. recommendations.
Some are running 305 out here. Im pretty happy with my 285s and would personally not go any wider than that for my C loads at moderate pressure. But tire shopping is a doozy, if you need help let us know!
 
@tbisaacs if those are Tundra 18x8s you must be running a pretty high PSI? Theres barely any squish. E load most likely helps keep sidewall rigid though.

Mid-20s, most of the weight is on back driver's side tire which is under compression. They squish pretty nicely at ~ 18 psi. I've ran as low as 10 in the snow and they are like pillows.
 
I am looking for a healthy mix of on and off-road ability. I don’t tend to rock crawl or search out mud but do go to out of the way places in the Rockies etc. and my house is off a road that is heavy clay based with very little gravel on top. I am more into the moderate off-road/overland type travel. I do drive it daily so not looking for anything that sacrifices too much on-road.
 

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