25 Master Cylinders

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Thanks, John.

I wonder if that style of brake MC is still available. :confused: Then I could still use my exisiting brake light switch and not have to replumb the brake line to it.
 
That's the one for a substitute......if you're planning to go back original again. ;) Otherwise it's not an upgrade.

The bolt pattern is triangular, but a little different (smaller?), I think you have to egg out the holes. Everything else will bolt right up. Think they're still available from Toyota. CCOT & SOR list them as fitting 1958 - 7/70. :rolleyes:

Hey John, just noticed you have the bullet type terminals on your pressure switch.......I do too, but they're supposed to be screw terminals.
 
Wrong terminals

I'll live with bullet terminals on this one, it came with chrome wheels and a channel iron bumper anyway :crybaby: . Now I've got to check the other three to make sure I have at least one for my stock restore. Next thing I know your going to tell me my Tbird is on upside down. :rolleyes:

John
 
Cruiser_Nerd said:
Hey John, just noticed you have the bullet type terminals on your pressure switch.......I do too, but they're supposed to be screw terminals.

Yeah, mine came with a half-baked solder job :rolleyes: , so I put bullet terminals on them, too.


Living in the past said:
Next thing I know your going to tell me my Tbird is on upside down.

I can tell by your chrome wheels and channel iron bumper, that your t-bird is probably upside-down as well. :D
 
Will this work for the clutch also? With all of the problems that everyone is having, and the fact that I will need to rebuild mine shortly, I may just use these instead to save the hassle. I can always "say" I have the originals :)
 
foxfab said:
Will this work for the clutch also?

Hey Mike, I was wondering the exact same thing. You'd think it would work, since the stock MCs are identical. But for some reason, CCOT doesn't list that particular unit as also being a clutch MC. :confused:
 
I sure if the master cylinder works for the brakes it will work for the clutch. Just don't throw out any of your original parts cause if you feel the need to back to original you'll have a hard time finding the parts again. The PO at least kept the original master brake cylinder and gave it to me with purchase. I think it might need to be sleeved cause it wasn't going out all the time.

John
 
Well, I ordered the actual Toyota OEM version of the above MC through CruiserDan ($81) and it's supposed to be here @ Thursday.

Time and patience permitting, I might first try it out as a clutch master, just for future reference.

Nope, the orginal parts aren't going anywhere . . . . . someday I'll return from the "dark side." :)
 
Progress report

Okay. The new MC arrived today and I installed it by having to bore out the three holes slightly longer towards center. And, the new included pushrod was way too short, so I used my old one. Otherwise, everything hooked up nicely. However . . .

For grins and giggles, I pulled the drums off all four wheels just to make sure everything was looking good before I sent them some fluid. And, two of my four recently rebuilt wheel cylinders had since sprung leaks on one side, forcing pressure on the opposite side shoe out to lock up against the drum.

Obviously, time to rebuild them AGAIN before I can go any further. :crybaby:

The previous time was with brand new NAPA 1499 1" rubber cups. Is it possible that with nearly 50 years of honing out the inside of the cylinders, that the bores have enlarged and the 1" cups are no longer capable of maintaining a seal? If so, what would be the (barely) next size up for a rubber cup? Metric?

:confused:
 
zebrabeefj40 said:
Maybe have the wheel cylinders sleeved with stainless like the Corvette guys do?

That would be your best bet, they're probably pitted, overbored, or egged out (like your firewall). Apple or White Post can resleeve and rebuild them in brass or stainless. If you want, I can send you four cores that would only be good for sleeving.

Didn't this 25 work when you got it? :doh: Seriously, it's only a matter of time before my luck runs out. Have you relined your emergency brake? ;)
 
Short of the time and expense of resleeving, are there any other existing wheel cylinders that would fit the 25? (But thanks for the offer for the loaner cores. :) ) Someone told me the late 70's International Scout W/Cs are "plug 'n play" with the FJ25.

Also, you don't think slightly larger cups would do the trick?


Cruiser_Nerd said:
Have you relined your emergency brake? ;)
Ironically, that's the only brake that works perfect, so I'm going to leave well enough alone on that. ;)
 
Landcruisersteve said:
Short of the time and expense of resleeving, are there any other existing wheel cylinders that would fit the 25? (But thanks for the offer for the loaner cores. :) ) Someone told me the late 70's International Scout W/Cs are "plug 'n play" with the FJ25.

Also, you don't think slightly larger cups would do the trick?

Don't know on the Scout cylinders....let us know. I would not be surprised if something bolted in. Stuff like this used to be a lot easier when I worked in a parts store. :frown:

I'm not sure on the next size but it's probably 1/32 or 1/16" larger which your not going to do with a hone, then you'll have to get new pistons also. If you have to pay someone to bore it, may as well get it sleeved also.
 
Cruiser_Nerd said:
If you have to pay someone to bore it, may as well get it sleeved also.

Yep, I know you're right, even though I'm sitting here eyeballing the axles on my gorgeous '78 FJ40. :o (Not to worry, Obie-Nerd . . . I haven't given in to the power of the Dark Side yet. I will continue to resist the temptation of the evil Darth Cruiserman. :eek: )

Any idea what a resleeving job would cost me and how long the turn-around time is? :confused:
 
I talked to a guy at White Post Restorations in Virginia about getting the wheel cylinders sleeved many moons ago. They wanted $80 each.

Found a link.
 
Apple Hydraulics

Should be standard price since it's not an odd size. I "think" Apple is sleeving in brass, White Post in stainless.

Jim
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom