oh my i definetly did not see anything like that hiding! lol
Im also in a 42 so might be diff
Im also in a 42 so might be diff
24v --> 12v Converter Questions (1 Viewer)
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Checked at the plug inside glove box it was all over the map it was at 13v then showed 19v nothing steady
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- #23
Ive got the battery equalizer wired up, but currently only for constant 12v. the 12v runs to a fuse block and then accessories get individually ran and fused from there. However I'd like to add a second fuse block for ignition-switched accessories. I know this would require a relay, but I'm really not sure how to make it work, or what relay (part number) I would need. Anybody have a simple diagram of how I might do this? I'm thinking I need 12v into it, 12v out of it, but then the "switch" power would have to be 24v. Is that even possible? It has to be.
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- #24
So I wired things up as described, with a solenoid. I used this model: 24063-08 - Continuous Duty SPST Series - Standard High Current Relays from DC Solenoids and Relays - Littelfuse
12v in and out, 24v to one of the small posts. When it gets 24v to the small post, the solenoid doesn’t close the connection, allowing the 12v to pass to the other side. What am I doing wrong? Is it a malfunctioning solenoid?
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earbuds and ipod haha
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- #26
Switched to a 12v solenoid, and am running a second, very small, power converter on the ignition wire that goes to the switch on the solenoid so that it receives 12v to the switch. That seems to do the trick. I'm in business, with balanced batteries and 12v power, both constant and switched.
The prohibition to share grounds on a 24 v to 12 v converter with a 24 v chassis ground came from the electrical engineer at Solar Controller. This is the guy who designed the box, not a sales guy reading off a pamphlet. My choice to run the equalizer instead if the converter is based on his expertise.
Some may have had good luck running shared grounds but I'm not going to risk the $ of my installed electronics based on their luck. I'll trust the math.
It may have been mentioned but you can get 12 24v converters that will supply a constant 12v to hold memory on a stereo and a acc switch signal.
BiffS
Too many projects... ooh, look. Something shiny.
The issue in my observations is that there is a shared earth in almost all chassis of electrical components and devices; stereos, amplifiers, CB radios, etc. What you're isolating is the positive terminal and the potential that it's feeding there. Further, the internal electronics of your truck already use several different voltages, with a shared earth system; all of the sensors, glow system, tachometer, etc. 81 series trucks have a built in 12/24V switchover system for starting that even allows both voltages to exist at the same time to facilitate starting operations.
My approach was to have a 24V converter provide output to a 12V battery as the storage reservoir in my system, and run all the 12V accessories off of that source; whether it be headlights, HIDs, LED fogs, LED internal lights, 12V pumps, stereo and communications accessories, etc.
BiffS
Too many projects... ooh, look. Something shiny.
I've also now added an ACR in my 12V setup to balance start/ run battery banks. This results in a safe gate limit for draw down when camped for my fridge and stereo usage, but also allows for the batteries to be charged safely and independently (somewhat), which prevents overcharging.
Hello All, Has anybody come up with a newer way to do this?
Hello All, Has anybody come up with a newer way to do this? The link in this post does not work.Switched to a 12v solenoid, and am running a second, very small, power converter on the ignition wire that goes to the switch on the solenoid so that it receives 12v to the switch. That seems to do the trick. I'm in business, with balanced batteries and 12v power, both constant and switched.
