22re Timing chain swap, having problems starting the truck

[meatloaf]

So my son and I swapped the tc, tc cover, water/oil pumps, head/oil pan/valve cover gaskets, etc. Set the crank at TDC with the notch on the gear at the 6 o'clock (woodruff key at 12 o'clock) and the cam at 12 o'clock on the gear notch and markings on the chain in the proper teeth. for the distributor in inserted it to where the rotor lands around #1. The truck will not start. what am I missing?

Thanks,
ML

 

[meatloaf]

Got thr truck to run for about 5 secs but it rattles. seems to be coming from from under the valve cover. Maybe I don't have cam & crank aligned?

 

[jynx]

Make sure the distributor cam and crank are all aligned. I tore mine down several years ago, had a similar issue. I was at the wrong TDC on the crank. 180* out of time on the cam, rolled the engine over once putting the cam onto the intake stroke, installed the dist and it fired right up.

Can't remember the exact cam/ crank gear orientation, will have to check the FSM when I get home and let you know.

 

[bcstoy]

Make sure you have adjusted your valves correctly. Intake .08 and exhaust .12. The distributor rotor should point to tower #1 for the ignition wire and both of its valves should be in a closed position. I usually adjust them until I find some resistance while pulling the feeler gauge.

 

[snobdds]

Make sure both valves (intake and exhaust) on #1 are loose, then your know your at TDC on the intake stroke. Put the rotor to 12 oclock then insert the dizzy. The rotor should rotate back to 10 oclock or #1 spark plug on the cap.

I also agree your 180* out of time.

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

If it ran for 5 seconds, then it's not 180 out, but it's entirely possible that it's a tooth or 2 off at the distributor.... Basically recheck everything! You can not assume you did it all right the first time, I never do.....

 

[ken_79-fj40]

Make sure everything is plugged in too. My brother in law did this job on his (now mine) 89 pickup and broke the fuel injection temp sensor in the process. It ran, but horribly. Of course I think he put the wrong chain in it too. The only way the thing will move under it's power is with the distributor cranked all the way forwards. Doesn't run too bad and it's just a plow truck but I know it's not right and it bugs me.

 

[meatloaf]

Make sure both valves (intake and exhaust) on #1 are loose,.

What is the best way to check? Pull off valve cover and?

 

[snobdds]

What is the best way to check? Pull off valve cover and?

Pull valve cover and set engine to TDC.

Then wiggle the rocker arm shafts on the # 1 piston, they (intake and exhaust) should move back to front and vise versa. If not rotate the engine to TDC again and they should be loose.

 

[meatloaf]

Thanks to all of you for the input.

Pulled everything off again last night. The crank was off by one turn. No more knocking. It is still running for about 5 secs. Need to go check after work today

 

[KLF]

It is still running for about 5 secs.

This usually means that there's something wrong at the MAF sensor at the airbox. Like.... maybe you forgot to plug it in... (Yes I've done that!!).

If the MAF is indeed connected, try putting a paperclip jumper across the B+ and Fp contacts in the diagnostic connector by the battery. If it runs now, then it's likely that it's either a bad MAF sensor, or a bad circuit opening relay.

 

[jynx]

Also along that line, make sure your intake tube is in place. If it can't draw air across the MAF then it won't run either. Ask me how I know...

 

[flash02]

Also....check that your fuel pump has not crapped out, my fuel pump worked one day and not the next. Jumper the fuel pump test connection, as stated in the above post, if the pump runs then go for air flow meter. Once the engine is running the air flow meter is what keeps the fuel pump on.

To check the air flow meter do the following...unlatch the top of the air box, with the airflow meter connected and the ignition on manipulate the gate inside the airflow meter, once the gate is moved the fuel pump should turn on. If the pump worked buy jumping the test connector but did not buy moving the air flow meter gate then suspect the airflow meter. Don't rule out simple things such as relays IE circuit opening relay, connectors and just plain old age induced corrosion and or wire and connector breaks.

Good luck!

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD

 

[meatloaf]

Thanks again for the input. Keep the ideas coming. Hopefully truck will be running before the end of the weekend.

This usually means that there's something wrong at the MAF sensor at the airbox. Like.... maybe you forgot to plug it in... (Yes I've done that!!).

If the MAF is indeed connected, try putting a paperclip jumper across the B+ and Fp contacts in the diagnostic connector by the battery. If it runs now, then it's likely that it's either a bad MAF sensor, or a bad circuit opening relay.

MAF plug was/is connected. Jump B+ to Fp, still has same issue. Running about 2-5 secs.

Also along that line, make sure your intake tube is in place. If it can't draw air across the MAF then it won't run either. Ask me how I know...

Intake tube at the flex coupling by the TB was broken. taped up with electrical tape. truck still dies

Also....check that your fuel pump has not crapped out, my fuel pump worked one day and not the next. Jumper the fuel pump test connection, as stated in the above post, if the pump runs then go for air flow meter. Once the engine is running the air flow meter is what keeps the fuel pump on.

To check the air flow meter do the following...unlatch the top of the air box, with the airflow meter connected and the ignition on manipulate the gate inside the airflow meter, once the gate is moved the fuel pump should turn on. If the pump worked buy jumping the test connector but did not buy moving the air flow meter gate then suspect the airflow meter. Don't rule out simple things such as relays IE circuit opening relay, connectors and just plain old age induced corrosion and or wire and connector breaks.

Good luck!

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD

You can hear the fuel pump when the ignition is on and was running fine prior to chain swap. still not ruling it out. Will check out air flow meter too.

I need to recheck all connections