I have had my 85 flatbed for some years now and bought it 3 rd hand with a rebuilt 22RE. It has a cam and an LC header. The engine runs fine but I have never seen a 4 cylinder that does not like to rev past 3,000 rpm like this engine. When I get it to 3 grand it makes allot of noise, you would think that you are almost at redline by the way it sounds. I have taken it to 5,000 a few times which was a complete wast of time as it just huffed and puffed trying to get there. About 4000-4,500 is really the limit for this engine. I have never driven a totally stock 22RE and can not imagine that Toyota would design this engine this way from the factory, while it has great low end it just sucks at anything past 3000 rpm. What gives? Maybe I have low end cam, I know that it is not stock, but the guy say he *thought* it was a mid range cam. Do all 22RE's drive this way? Let me know, and thanks.
22RE Operating characteristics
- Thread starter slickrok
- Start date
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Howdy! I have a stock drive line in my 85 w 198,000 on the original 22RE. It stills runs down the freeway pretty good, and the low end is very drivable on the street. I haven't had it in the boonies for a few years, as I have a better trail rig. I do most of my driving below 3000 rpm, but it will wind up past 4000 pretty well. The power seems to fade off up there, and I can't imagine pushing it up past 5000. The only odd noise mine makes is at neutral load: between acceleration and deceleration. Then it rattles pretty loud, but it has done that for about 8 years, so, well, whatever. Someday, it will die and get replaced with a crate motor, or the Vortec 4.3 V6 in my Astro van, I hope. Check the timing. It sounds like you are about 6 - 8 degrees retarted from where you should be.. John
My stock 22R with 165K on it won't go much over 3000 RPMs either, I chalk it up to being old and worn.
The torque peak for the 22R/E is 2800 RPMs. Peak horsepower I believe is at 4200 RPMs or close.
Honestly you should never need to go past 3000.
Thats part of what makes it such a great engine, it is built more like a Diesel than a gasoline engine, it runs on very low revs, and has a very low torque peak, which is exactly what you want when you're out in the middle of nowhere, relatively low fuel use, lower engine wear, and power where you need it. The engine has a longer stroke, which gives it the flat, low torque curve.
My truck at 300k miles would rev happily to 3000 RPMs, but past that it gets sketchy. But thats where you should be shifting anyway.
The real power for the truck comes from the T-Case, when I'm 4x4ing I just shift by sound and feel, and end up shifting around 2300 RPMs anyway.
So to answer your question; yes, it is supposed to be that way.
Honestly you should never need to go past 3000.
Thats part of what makes it such a great engine, it is built more like a Diesel than a gasoline engine, it runs on very low revs, and has a very low torque peak, which is exactly what you want when you're out in the middle of nowhere, relatively low fuel use, lower engine wear, and power where you need it. The engine has a longer stroke, which gives it the flat, low torque curve.
My truck at 300k miles would rev happily to 3000 RPMs, but past that it gets sketchy. But thats where you should be shifting anyway.
The real power for the truck comes from the T-Case, when I'm 4x4ing I just shift by sound and feel, and end up shifting around 2300 RPMs anyway.
So to answer your question; yes, it is supposed to be that way.
cool, so that rattle isn't just me!
I've heard someone say it's due to flat spots on the cam but I've no idea what that would do..
That rattle could be the timing chain. Your engine has plastic guides and they break up. The result is the chain slaps the cover and digs a pair of groves into a water jacket ... a bad thing. Replace with steel guides from DOA or somebody else.
I have a DOA engine ... C270 cam, balanced, ported, yada, yada, yada. It will climb past 4000, but like was said, the power flattens out. Going over 4000 on the freeway is a waste of power and I'm usually better off shifting, depending on the grade. It will run at 3000rpm all day long and is real happy there. I've had it to 5000 in the snow.
I need to double check, but if I was going to make a guess I would suggest replacing your fuel pressure regulator. I seem to recall there is a VSV that controls the pressure regulator, so make sure it's hooked up correctly and working. What it does is allow the fuel pressure to increase at higher RPMs.
On a side note, I had another '85 22re with a TRD/Crane camshaft. It easily pulled to 5000, with a time or two in the snow going over [ooops].
I have a DOA engine ... C270 cam, balanced, ported, yada, yada, yada. It will climb past 4000, but like was said, the power flattens out. Going over 4000 on the freeway is a waste of power and I'm usually better off shifting, depending on the grade. It will run at 3000rpm all day long and is real happy there. I've had it to 5000 in the snow.
I need to double check, but if I was going to make a guess I would suggest replacing your fuel pressure regulator. I seem to recall there is a VSV that controls the pressure regulator, so make sure it's hooked up correctly and working. What it does is allow the fuel pressure to increase at higher RPMs.
On a side note, I had another '85 22re with a TRD/Crane camshaft. It easily pulled to 5000, with a time or two in the snow going over [ooops].
This whole thread sounds like my experience with my 22RE.
When I first got my 4Runner, the engine didn't like going above 3000 and didn't like much below 1500. Was pretty weak.
Changed the timing chain and gained loads of power, new plugs, cap and rotor, wires, injector cleaner and Sea Foam, header, new cat, MSD Blaster coil and modded intake.
Now it pulls much better and doesn't mind going to 4000 and keep going. In the mountains, what I used to do in 2nd gear, I can do in 3rd and just sit at high 3000's.
When I first got my 4Runner, the engine didn't like going above 3000 and didn't like much below 1500. Was pretty weak.
Changed the timing chain and gained loads of power, new plugs, cap and rotor, wires, injector cleaner and Sea Foam, header, new cat, MSD Blaster coil and modded intake.
Now it pulls much better and doesn't mind going to 4000 and keep going. In the mountains, what I used to do in 2nd gear, I can do in 3rd and just sit at high 3000's.
Mine isn't the chain. I replaced with steel guide one.. old one was still in great shape too. Thought it was an exhaust manifold leak (warped manifold), but I planed the manifold and reinstalled with some fixes for the stripping end studs.. and still have a rattle mostly when I let off the gas. Will probably get used to it until I tear into the motor down the road.
had the same rattle on my 86 4runner with 250k thought it was piston skirts, had the engine rebuilt and it is back even louder, seems to mostly be when in gear under neutral load , goes away when throttle is more open or entirely closed, kinda sounds like ping but runs so well under more throttle, my new theory is that it might be gear lash, gotta check the gearbox
My 86 does the same thing. I thought it was the timing chain, but was too lazy to check it. Turned out it was gear lash. and third became nothing more than glitter in the transmission oil. I had to drive it that way for a few months while I waited for the new tranny. I love manuals! I'd love to see that work out with a slush box.
ok,you guys are making me realize why i have killed 3 22re's
mine has mid cam,oversize valves,high flow injectors,header,2 1/2 straight pipe glasspack,and a K+N intake and it pulls hard thru 6000k
to be honest i shift at 5-6k always
one hillclimb(man its rough!) i routinely hit 7-8k in first in 4low cause its the only way ill have the momentum to make the summit
DONT ignore that timing chain slap...(broke..bent 2 valves):whoops:
DONT go over 8000..(spun a bearing)
DONT hold the pedal down for 15 minutes..(warped the head)
DONT say drive it like you stole it..(my friend says 9 out of 10 car thiefs would be easier on it
)
DONT be like me...(priceless)
lol
mine has mid cam,oversize valves,high flow injectors,header,2 1/2 straight pipe glasspack,and a K+N intake and it pulls hard thru 6000k
to be honest i shift at 5-6k always
one hillclimb(man its rough!) i routinely hit 7-8k in first in 4low cause its the only way ill have the momentum to make the summit
DONT ignore that timing chain slap...(broke..bent 2 valves):whoops:
DONT go over 8000..(spun a bearing)
DONT hold the pedal down for 15 minutes..(warped the head)
DONT say drive it like you stole it..(my friend says 9 out of 10 car thiefs would be easier on it
)DONT be like me...(priceless)
lol