22R carb question and intro (1 Viewer)

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Jul 5, 2005
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Location
Ames, IA
I'm a long time Land Cruiser guy who recently picked my first Toyota pickup. I've always liked the first gen trucks and I found one in my town for a great price and I have been needing a truck to haul wood and building supplies. My plan is to keep it stock. Here's a pic:

1982 SR5

395658199_TYVp6-M.jpg


Tech question:

It seems to be somewhat cold blooded and doesn't like to start on cold mornings. I'm used to working on the manual choke Aisan carbs in my cruisers, but this electric choke has me stumped. It doesn't seem to be closing automatically. It will start right up if I close the choke with my finger, then it slowly opens as the engine warms up as it should. I'm not understanding what is supposed to trigger the choke butterfly to close on initial startup. is it linkage or vacuum controlled? Not sure where to start with troubleshooting it.

Does anyone make a manual choke conversion for these??


Thanks! :cheers:
 
Thanks for the links.


Anyone know if there is a manual choke kit available for the stock 22R carb?
 
The choke works wonderfully well when it is set up right. It would be worth figuring it out to fix properly. All i do is pump the gas a few times, then it starts right up. it kicks down progressively as it gets warmer.
 
So if I drill out the three pop rivets on the choke body, it should rotate? Allowing me to "adjust" or correctly set the choke opening when cold? Looks like I'll have to remove the whole carb to do it. :doh:
 
make sure there is volts to the choke wire with the ignition on.

i'd have to look at the one of the carbs in the massive pile of carbs at my shop to tell you how to adjust it.

but my webber was adjusted by turning the coil under that round thingy with the threee dilly bobs.
 
You do know that you have to floor the accelerator pedal and hold it for a second BEFORE you touch the ignition when the engine's cold, in order to set the choke? It's not an automatic thing to do, but that's how it works on the 22R. I tend to forget it easily when I drive my daughter's truck.

I've only rebuilt a couple of these, but as far as I know, there's no adjustment on the choke. You can drill out the rivets and pull it apart and make sure the spring isn't corroded to bits, but there's no tuning it on the couple I've had.
 
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hidden in the pile was a 22R carb.
I know this because the 20R carb uses a hydro thermal choke.

so i tore it down to see how the choke worked.

good luck figuring it out! :flipoff2:

crazycarb.jpg




i read my manual and the process does NOT involve removing those three rivits on the dilly bob.

it had all this fancy lingo about using a 50 degree protractawhats it and bending a tab and blah blah blah.
WAY to complicated to explain in one post. you should see me studder about how to set up a ring and pinion! Oh-MY!

the book i was lookin at is a Robert Bentley. I always used those when i broke crap on shwagens. the toyota one is damn good, and it uses a lot of hands on pics that you will find usefull. dont waste your money on a haynes or chickens manual.
 
Yeah, I guess you can bend those stop tabs on the outside of the choke and get some adjustment out of it if someone stuck something in there and bent them.
 
I tried the method of holding the pedal down before starting, but the choke just doesn't close on it's own. I also tried spraying some carb cleaner on the linkage but it didn't help.

Time to see if Toyota sells a replacement part I guess.
 
what are you going to replace?

Looks like the choke unit (round deelybop with the red wire coming out of it) comes off the carb easily enough.
 
I converted mine to a manual choke a couple weeks back as well. I bought a generic choke cable, drilled a hole in the side of of the choke coil cover, and stuck that biatch in there. To actuate it I drilled another hole in the little arm that moves the choke, and bent a 90 degree bend in the end the my cable. That way it will return the choke when you push the cable back in, unlike the initial loop termination i tried the first time. I used jb weld to secure the cable in the proper location so that the choke would be preloaded in the closing direction with the cable pushed in. It works like a champ, electric gadgets and carbs dont mix IMHO.
 
I converted mine to a manual choke a couple weeks back as well. I bought a generic choke cable, drilled a hole in the side of of the choke coil cover, and stuck that biatch in there. To actuate it I drilled another hole in the little arm that moves the choke, and bent a 90 degree bend in the end the my cable. That way it will return the choke when you push the cable back in, unlike the initial loop termination i tried the first time. I used jb weld to secure the cable in the proper location so that the choke would be preloaded in the closing direction with the cable pushed in. It works like a champ, electric gadgets and carbs dont mix IMHO.

That sounds like it would work. I might take it apart and see what I can design to convert to manual if I can't find a plug-and-play option. It's getting COLD up here in the mornings!
 
That sounds like it would work. I might take it apart and see what I can design to convert to manual if I can't find a plug-and-play option. It's getting COLD up here in the mornings!
Let me go to Summit and see what I can find.


The choke kit I bought from Advance was fine itself it was the bracket that needed to be bigger. The bracket itself needs to be close to the carb as possible. I just wish the kit had more options.
 
So I called Toyota and the 22R choke (air horn assembly) is no longer available, nor is the 22R carb. :frown: The parts guy suggested trying Napa for a rebuilt unit. All I need is a choke. Amazing no one has designed a manual choke for these and I'm surprised that Toyota would discontinue the carb and parts for such a popular engine...
 

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