The saddest part is that’s what the shop concluded was the best course of action.
Glad you are headed toward a solution though.. and congrats on the rig.
2017 LC windows fogging up, dealer can't find the problem. *****UPDATE*************
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The saddest part is that’s what the shop concluded was the best course of action.
Glad you are headed toward a solution though.. and congrats on the rig.
I cant believe I just discovered this is what has been casuing my windows to fog in cold weather. I thought I had the water intrusion in the cowl issue, but I just discovered, my flap doesnt return to the FRESH AIR position when I push the button. It moves back to the RECIRC position from the FRESH position, but not vice versa. When its in RECIRC position, if it pull on it lightly, it wont move, but if I push the FRESH button while pulling on it lightly, it releases and I can move it down manually. My question is, how do I know if something is broken or just the linkage has come loose?
For the 2017 and your description the flap housing is very likely cracked. From what I've seen, the earlier trucks 2008-2011 will have the linkage pop out most times, but on the 2013+ the housing is almost always cracked.
Just had a failure of the HVAC door on my 2021 LC. Noticed that excessive fogging started almost immediately after the last dealer service that included a new cabin filter. Had the dealer take a look today and they assert that the HVAC door was indeed stuck on recirculate and that the recent sub zero temperatures in my area caused the actuator gears to fail. The dealer is going to ask Toyota to cover the issue because its a know failure point.
Overall, I'm disappointed that this issue has persisted so long, but glad my dealer is taking the upper hand in getting the repair covered.
Overall, I'm disappointed that this issue has persisted so long, but glad my dealer is taking the upper hand in getting the repair covered.
Alternate viewpoint: personally I’d rather buy the third party fix even if the dealer gets the full repair covered. This way your dash doesn’t have to be removed.. lots of opportunities for things to not quite go back as well as the factory.
Also, there’s no way it just froze stuck. The dealer broke the door, whether they want to admit it or not.
I agree that the freezing temps are not to blame. There's a single servo motor with an arm that drive the recirculation flap; all of which are greased and are not exposed to moisture.
WHat has to be renoved to access this for a 2021 LC200? In addition to my hatch window totally demolishing itself I have this fogging condition as well. Thanks for any pointers (yes, I saw the video but that doesn't apply to the LC200/2021 model on what needs to be removed).
siberian
siberian
Removing the glovebox is very very similar on the later model years (and LX). The knee panel shape is a bit different but it's removal is pretty much the same as the 2014 demo'ed in the video.
Agreed about opening the dashboard, but this is the situation I have to deal with. It's not clear that a third party fix will solve the problem in this case.
I'm fortunate to have the head of service advocating to make the repair under warranty.
The service report says "the servo motor keeps spinning, does not find the closed position causing the door hinge to be worn out". They're asking Toyota to advise on replacing the servo motor, fresh air door and blower box. We'll see once the broken parts are out.
I think it’s worth researching further. My understanding is the third party fix is explicitly designed to fix a cracked door, which is usually why the door won’t grip onto the shaft/pin.
And to be clear this isn’t a case of opening the dashboard.. to change the blower box you must remove the whole dashboard. Which means dozens of fasteners, electrical connectors, harness retainers, even little felt rub pads to keep squeaks and rattles at bay. Also this is a job that is done extremely rarely… they may use a highly skilled tech for it due to the complexity but it’s not like they’ll have a bunch of practice on 200s.
It’s great they seem to have your back but I wouldn’t want *anyone* removing my dashboard if there was an alternate option. In this case there is a cheap, much less invasive one.
Does the airbag need to be removed? If so you MUST disconnect the battery for at least 20 minutes to allow the capacitors to discharge.
siberian
You can carefully remove it without disconnecting it. If you choose to disconnect it, yes you’ll want to disconnect the negative terminal on the battery for around 30m
Do not futz with this, many a first responder have been injured or killed by having the airbag go off snapping their neck as they reach into the cabin. Any time you work on airbags disconnect the battery and place the airbag module on the ground facing UP, never down.
siberian
siberian
Since the car has a 30 day warranty, I sent an email to the head of sales at BMW of Des Moines explaining the issue and requesting permission to have it repaired at an indie shop. Hopefully... as between the hatch window exploding and personal emergencies, I'm hoping for a little love...
siberian
siberian
Looks like some long term LC200 owners have already pointed this out;
If the recirculation door actuating arm ever breaks on my LC200, whether under warranty or not, I would definitely first try the aftermarket solution per the video above (added some pictures below for clarity) since:
- Having it repaired by Toyota or an Indie will require opening up a significant amount of the dash to replace one component of the "HVAC system"
- Given knowledge, skills and experience at the dealers/shops these days, I would be concerned they mess up something else in the process which causes a rattle or another issue down the road
In this case I would rather do the relative easy DIY route and spend the money for the aftermarket parts ($50 from what I can see).
Siberian et al, keep us posted on the fix and any learnings, thanks a lot!
Photos from internet and Nat's YT video;
If the recirculation door actuating arm ever breaks on my LC200, whether under warranty or not, I would definitely first try the aftermarket solution per the video above (added some pictures below for clarity) since:
- Having it repaired by Toyota or an Indie will require opening up a significant amount of the dash to replace one component of the "HVAC system"
- Given knowledge, skills and experience at the dealers/shops these days, I would be concerned they mess up something else in the process which causes a rattle or another issue down the road
In this case I would rather do the relative easy DIY route and spend the money for the aftermarket parts ($50 from what I can see).
Siberian et al, keep us posted on the fix and any learnings, thanks a lot!
Photos from internet and Nat's YT video;
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So BMW of Des Moines who sold me the car did me a solid and contacted Kendall Toyota in Fairbanks and told them to fix it and send them the bill. As for the cracked hatch window I'm filing that under my glass insurance, coupled with my wife's cancer surgery a couple of days ago I'm grateful I don't have to deal with this. I fully agree that I would do this myself (and even ordered the part just in case) but I just don't have the time and my mind is elsewhere at the moment.
Service Mgr,. @Toyota is due to call me this coming week to set up an appointment and the hatch window is still a week out at least. I'll keep folks posted.
Aloha from 65 North
siberian
Service Mgr,. @Toyota is due to call me this coming week to set up an appointment and the hatch window is still a week out at least. I'll keep folks posted.
Aloha from 65 North
siberian