2015 New Battery time.....tips?

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Any electronic issues/problems when removing OEM - plug and play for the new one & losing memory brains etc etc......?

Best replacement recommendations?

THX
 
OEM batteries are very competitive when you consider the quality level.

It is plug & play, though guys on here report the first time you start it with the new battery it'll start then die, then on restart everything will be normal. I haven't done this yet but a few had the same thing happen. Some kind of system reboot, I guess.
 
When you hook up the new battery, turn it to Accessory first for a minute or two and let it do its thing. (Meaning, just press the start button without foot on the brake) Then turn it off, then start. If I remember correctly, when I did that, it didnt immediately shut back off like @bloc said.
 
Mine always does a non-start on first button press...then starts.

You’ll lose driver-door-position programming button memory (reprogram by starting...leave in P...adjust driver seat...press SET button and 1, 2, or 3 to set. It beeps to confirm it’s programmed.

Your AC temp will set to 75...

That’s about it.
 
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Appreciate the details everyone...thx.

Local W WA dealer (to me) wanted $235 out the door installed.

Quick search says OEM battery or better generally sells for around $120 - 150......sounds like an easy DIY
 
Might check and see if any warranty left on the original OEM battery. It is pro-rated coverage after certain timeframe, but not sure when it bottoms out. I had an OEM battery replaced on my 2013 CPO recently. It only cost me around $65 installed at the dealership as I am still within CPO warranty and there was a little warranty coverage left on the last Toyota battery.
 
I use those test jumpers with a small motorcycle battery to provide basic accessory power when I change batteries to prevent any memory or function loss. My wife says I need to do that too since I tend to suffer a similar fate occasionally also

I have one of those NOCO portable power pack battery jumpers.....how would the process go using that - if possible?
 
[My wife says I need to do that too since I tend to suffer a similar fate occasionally also
[/QUOTE]

That and selective deafness works wonders.
 
I replaced my battery on my 15 LC today. +1 on the price and warranty for the Toyota battery.

I keep getting the "initializing" message on the front and rear camera. I know from past experience that there was an easy way to reset the parking guides, but I didnt write it down and the documented process isnt working. Anyone know the trick to it that I'm missing?
 
My battery was $136.50 out the door from the local dealer. Installed myself in about 5 minutes. Did the start then die thing, then started right back up. No problemo.
 
Should grab sand paper and clean where the terminals connect to the battery. Aswell the black ground from the neg. cable to the body.
 
I bought a replacement at Sam's Club. Duracell 27F, which is larger and more CCA than the stock 24F. $99.95 and free installation. It took about 10 minutes and they use a battery maintainer so I didn't lose any settings. I would've swapped it myself in the parking lot but between the battery weight, the hood height, and my bumper with a bull bar I need a step stool to be able to lift the damn thing out. Also I couldn't beat the installation price
 
I bought a replacement at Sam's Club. Duracell 27F, which is larger and more CCA than the stock 24F. $99.95 and free installation. It took about 10 minutes and they use a battery maintainer so I didn't lose any settings. I would've swapped it myself in the parking lot but between the battery weight, the hood height, and my bumper with a bull bar I need a step stool to be able to lift the damn thing out. Also I couldn't beat the installation price
I thought stock was a 27?


I keep getting the "initializing" message on the front and rear camera. I know from past experience that there was an easy way to reset the parking guides, but I didnt write it down and the documented process isnt working. Anyone know the trick to it that I'm missing?

What it’s looking for is the steering angle sweep. I can’t remember if it’ll work stationary, but basically as you drive it and go from one steering stop to the other a few times it’ll learn this then the initialization will disappear and your yellow lines will show up again.
 
I thought stock was a 27?

eh, could be? the CCA rating on it was definitely higher than the Toyota battery though
 
eh, could be? the CCA rating on it was definitely higher than the Toyota battery though
24s and 35s can actually have pretty impressive CCA numbers, but where the 27 really shines over them is reserve capacity. This isn’t published often but it’s basically how well will the battery do delivering that CCA after it has had something drawing it down for a while. Think glow plugs before starting a diesel, even though that doesn’t apply to us directly. Or fridge/chargers/etc for many of us.
Either way I will be looking for a battery before the cold hits this season and will give the Duracell some attention.
 
A big heavy battery is generally better than the lighter one.
 
I bought a replacement at Sam's Club. Duracell 27F, which is larger and more CCA than the stock 24F.


Either way I will be looking for a battery before the cold hits this season and will give the Duracell some attention.

Yes, many if not most Toyotas use group 24’s, but the Land Cruiser gets a group 27.

I believe Duracell batteries are made by East Penn Deka. Deka makes great batteries. I had flooded group 27 in the 80 that lasted 8 years. I recently replaced it with another one.

Personally I would recommend that or an Interstate Megatron Plus “MTP” part number.
 

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