2013 LC200 w/ 285/70-17 BFG AT on TRD Wheels

[NQCruiser]

My 2010 GXL runs 17in wheels as standard, as does my 2007 Sahara. I think 18in was an option, but I never saw the point for the driving I do. The factory tyre size was 285/65R17 but I'm now running those same BF Goodrich AT's in a 285/70R17. I'm pretty happy with mine so far (10,000km).

Those wheels are dead sexy on a 200 - I've been contemplating the same ones for the Sahara. It just needs "something" to make it stand out from all the other white 200's out there.

 

[SWUtah]

How much for the wheels and how much for the tires? How do they ride? Easy to keep balanced? What is the wear rating on the tires?

 

[gaijin]

How much for the wheels and how much for the tires? How do they ride? Easy to keep balanced? What is the wear rating on the tires?

My link in post #3 above is still good and shows the price for the wheels:

http://trdparts4u.toyotaofdallas.com/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=298277

You can find all the info on the tires on TireRack.com:

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=BFGoodrich&tireModel=All-Terrain+T%2FA+KO&partnum=87R7ATAKORWLV2&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes

No wear rating is required or given for this class of tire. I can say that after 70,000 miles on my 1998 LC100 a set of these still had plenty of tread life left.

Please note that this size BFG AT T/A is available in both a "D" and "E" Load Rating. I have the "E" Load Rating tire and it carries the "Snowflake/Mountain" symbol indicating it has excelled in winter driving testing. The "D" Load Rating tire does not carry this symbol.

You can price this tire at Tire Rack, Discount Tire, Tire Buyer, etc. Take your pick.

The tires are not noisy on the highway, don't track or wander and are responsive and firm under hard cornering. After 70,000 miles on my LC100 and so far on my LC200 I have never had to re-balance a tire.

Performance in sand is good, snow is good, aired down to 20psi on rocks is good - mud is just so-so. Of course, IMHO, anything short of a large-lugged mud bogger is not going to do very well in mud.


HTH

 

[cc1999]

Thanks for the link on the Wheels.

I am working on putting together something similar.
I am thinking I want to stay with the P-metric class (4-ply) tire to try and maintain current fuel economy and a smooth ride, possibly could turn out even smoother riding then the OEM tires since there will be at least 2"s more side wall .

This is the Tire I am looking at, same demnsional spec as the LT-ATKO
Size: P285/70R17
Sidewall Style: Outlined White Letters
Serv. Desc: 117T Load Index 117 = 2892lbs (1315kg) per tire
Speed Rating “T” = 118mph (190kph)
UTQG: Treadwear: 480
Traction: A
Temperature: B480 A B

I have made upgrades like this in the past to other vehichles, and generally a LT 10ply Load range E, can be a bit on the rough side, for comfort, and the added weight of a 10ply tire (rotating mass) can reduce on road performance and fuel mileage. Also some TPMS systems trip pressure warrnings for to much pressure as well as to low. A load range E has a very high recomended pressure range. These are typically a 3/4-1ton truck tires, designed to run 50-80psi for carring heavy loads. A 10plytire can be good for extream offroading do to the heavy ply's are more puncture resistant.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiret...ack.com||S|b|6698650813&techid=55&index.jsp=&

 

[cc1999]

I was wondering if you gained any offset with your new wheels?
My LC has the fender flares and I am wanting the wheels to stick out just maybe an inch more then the OEM wheels. With the Flares on there, the OEM wheels look like the set in to far and look sort of odd at certan angles.

 

[SWUtah]

Thanks for the link on the Wheels.

I am working on putting together something similar.
I am thinking I want to stay with the P-metric class (4-ply) tire to try and maintain current fuel economy and a smooth ride, possibly could turn out even smoother riding then the OEM tires since there will be at least 2"s more side wall .

This is the Tire I am looking at, same demnsional spec as the LT-ATKO
Size: P285/70R17
Sidewall Style: Outlined White Letters
Serv. Desc: 117T Load Index 117 = 2892lbs (1315kg) per tire
Speed Rating “T” = 118mph (190kph)
UTQG: Treadwear: 480
Traction: A
Temperature: B480 A B

I have made upgrades like this in the past to other vehichles, and generally a LT 10ply Load range E, can be a bit on the rough side, for comfort, and the added weight of a 10ply tire (rotating mass) can reduce on road performance and fuel mileage. Also some TPMS systems trip pressure warrnings for to much pressure as well as to low. A load range E has a very high recomended pressure range. These are typically a 3/4-1ton truck tires, designed to run 50-80psi for carring heavy loads. A 10plytire can be good for extream offroading do to the heavy ply's are more puncture resistant.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiret...ack.com||S|b|6698650813&techid=55&index.jsp=&

These are not top of the line tires. AT/KO's and Michelin AT's are top rated and proven to provide superior performance. Use tire racks rating charts as a guide, also what others on Mud are using. Yes "E" rated tires have a harder ride. But if you are doing a lot of off road travel they are tougher.

 

[cc1999]

They are both BFG's which is a premium brand. Michelins is premium brand, but I think you pay about as much for the name as anything these days. I was't saying the tire I posted was better then the ATKO.
Just an alternative for someone looking to accomplish a similar look without the on road drawbacks of the ATKO. If your planning to to much major offroading in your LC, the ATKO is the better tire.
I know all about BFG ATKO's, I have had them on many different trucks over the years, It is and has been a tire of preffernce of mine for many years for certan applications. I had them on a Tahoe, and 6 different GM 1/2 ton and 3/4 pickups, I had then on an Excursion, a couple different F250s.

The only point I was trying to make was, that if someone was wanting to do this upgrade more for looks, as I am, and less for hard core offorad function, the tire I was mentioning would maybe, be a better choice for similar looks, with better on road function. Every load range E 10ply I have ever had including MIchelin, Firestone, and BFG ATKOs have a real penalty in on road ride quality if aired to propper recomended pressures for a load range E 10 ply tire 50-80PSI.

 

[SWUtah]

They are both BFG's which is a premium brand. Michelins is premium brand, but I think you pay about as much for the name as anything these days. I was't saying the tire I posted was better then the ATKO.
Just an alternative for someone looking to accomplish a similar look without the on road drawbacks of the ATKO. If your planning to to much major offroading in your LC, the ATKO is the better tire.
I know all about BFG ATKO's, I have had them on many different trucks over the years, It is and has been a tire of preffernce of mine for many years for certan applications. I had them on a Tahoe, and 6 different GM 1/2 ton and 3/4 pickups, I had then on an Excursion, a couple different F250s. O

The only point I was trying to make was, that if someone was wanting to do this upgrade more for looks, as I am, and less for hard core offorad function, the tire I was mentioning would maybe, be a better choice for similar looks, with better on road function. Every load range E 10ply I have ever had including MIchelin, Firestone, and BFG ATKOs have a real penalty in on road ride quality if aired to propper recomended pressures for a load range E 10 ply tire 50-80PSI.

Both the Rav4 and the Landcruiser are Toyota "brand" SUV's. Nuff said . Sounds like you know your tires from years of experience, I've found tire rack and Mud member experience good resources.

 

[cc1999]

IMO ATKOs are probably one of, if not the best tire I know of, for hard pack, sandy, rocky terrain. Similar to terrain in Gaijin's pictures, it probably is the best choice for his application. I wasn't meaning to knock ATKO's at all. They are ok for on road use, just not my favorite for a mainly on paved or maintained dirt/gravel road applications, ATKOs are also pretty weak in Mud, at least the sticky clay mud we have around here, they tend to packup the mud if you don't keep the wheel speed way up, to clean them out.

For me and my own planned application, I just know from experice the 10ply ATKO would be nothing but overkill and an un warranted sacrafice in on road functions. I do like to go offroad, but I guess I am bit of a cheapskate sicne I can't bring myself to put my LC out into the rough stuff. I mainly do my offroading on ATV's, I ride a Can-am Outlander 1000, at the sand dunes in OK, and in the rocky mountain trails of Colorado, and muddy rocky trails in AR. My LC sometimes pulls the trailer with quads to trail heads, which sometimes involves some very mild offroading occasionally needing its AWD capabilty, to get into and out of those trail heads. Mine LC is on pavement 90% of time if not more.

I agree 100% with you on the Tire Rack as a great source for info, specs etc. the pics and the load range link I posted earlier were from Tire rack.
The OE sized Bridgestone Alenza HLs I am currently running on my LC, I had heavily researched on Tire rack. I was very disapointed in the mileage I had gotten from the OEM Michellins only 25,000 miles almost to the wear bars out the oe Michelins. The Bridgestones I chose yeilded the highest spec for tread depth I could find in the OE size tire. So far the Bridgestones seem to be performing much better then the OE Michelins. I only have about 10K on the Bridgestones, but they still look brand new.

 

[gaijin]

Every load range E 10ply I have ever had including MIchelin, Firestone, and BFG ATKOs have a real penalty in on road ride quality if aired to propper recomended pressures for a load range E 10 ply tire 50-80PSI.

Just FYI, Toyota's recommended tire pressure for the 285/70-17 BFG AT/TA KO tires on a Land Cruiser is 46psi Front/Rear.

Here's a pic of the door sticker which is part of the wheel/tire package from Toyota:

 

[cc1999]

That's really sort of a misleading label, at least to me, since a LT tire can be load range C,D,or E, all of which are designed for vastly different pressures. Load range C is generally very similar or the same as a P-metric, a load range D is generally 45-65psi then Es go typically 65-80psi. I have never herd of a load range E with a recomended psi in the 40s. 50s really wouldnt scare me, a lot of tire experts would probably disagree, and say 60 is the minimum others might say 50s is fine on a SUV, I would imagine most would say 46 is too low for a load range E.



Here is debate on a tundra forum about psi on load range e.
http://www.tundratalk.net/forums/tu...e-e-tires-what-tire-pressure-you-runngin.html

 

[gaijin]

That's really sort of a misleading label, at least to me, since a LT tire can be load range C,D,or E, all of which are designed for vastly different pressures. Load range C is generally very similar or the same as a P-metric, a load range D is generally 45-65psi then Es go typically 65-80psi. I have never herd of a load range E with a recomended psi in the 40s. 50s really wouldnt scare me, a lot of tire experts would probably disagree, and say 60 is the minimum others might say 50s is fine on a SUV, I would imagine most would say 46 is too low for a load range E.



Here is debate on a tundra forum about psi on load range e.
http://www.tundratalk.net/forums/tu...e-e-tires-what-tire-pressure-you-runngin.html

It is not as simple as you imply.

In order to determine the correct Tire Pressure (TP) for a LT tire when replacing a P-Metric tire one must first determine what the factory recommended Load Limit is.

In the case of my Land Cruiser with stock P285/60R18 114V tires, the factory recommended TP is 33psi Front/Rear.

One has to then look up on a Tire Pressure/Load Limit table what the Load Limit is for that tire/pressure combination. In this case, the Load Limit recommended by the factory is 2,512 pounds @ 33psi.

When replacing that P-Metric tire with an LT tire, we must first reduce the Load Limit by dividing by 1.1. This means we must find a TP/Load Limit value that is equal to the P-Metric value of 2,512/1.1, or 2,284 pounds.

In the case of the BFG AT T/A E rated tire, the Load Index is 121 (Max Load is 3,195 pounds @ 80psi). Again, referring to the Pressure/Load table for E-rated tires with a Load Index of 121, we find that at 39.3psi that tire has a Load Limit of 2,286 pounds - slightly above what the factory recommends (taking into account the reduction for LT tires).

In the case of the BFG AT T/A D rated tire, the Load Index is still 121 (Max Load is 3,195 pounds @ 65psi). Referring to the Pressure/Load table for D-rated tires with a Load Index of 121, we find at the same 39.3psi that tire has a Load Limit of 2,286 pounds - exactly the same as the same tire in an E Rating.

So the Toyota recommended TP of 46psi is more than enough for either the D-Rated or the E-Rated tire. Probably Toyota are erring on the side of caution and upping the recommended TP assuming heavier loads or perhaps even hoping for better gas mileage - who knows, it is just conjecture on my part.

I am currently running my tires at 39.3psi.

Sorry to be long-winded, but now you have indeed heard of a recommended TP for an E-Rated tire in the 40's - even in the 39's - and the rationale for it.

HTH

 

[elkaholic]

^ Nice to see someone else here who has seen an inflation / load table and has read the instructions for determining proper tire pressure when switching from a P to LT tire. I have posed a few times over in the 100 section on this. (see https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=7793754&postcount=10 )

Toyo has a really good write-up for this in their inflation guide (see linked post).

Sam

 

[gaijin]

^ Nice to see someone else here who has seen an inflation / load table and has read the instructions for determining proper tire pressure when switching from a P to LT tire. I have posed a few times over in the 100 section on this. (see https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=7793754&postcount=10 )

Toyo has a really good write-up for this in their inflation guide (see linked post).

Sam

 

[MoneyMan]

Noticed your spare tire on rear photo. Is it stock tire and wheel or did you mount stock tire on 17 TRD wheel? I have had conflicting opinions on this one- so can someone clarify? Running 295-65-18 on LC. Spare is stock Dunlap that came with LC. Any problem in running different size spare with three other larger size tires if a flat would occur? Lucky so far.

 

[gaijin]

Noticed your spare tire on rear photo. Is it stock tire and wheel or did you mount stock tire on 17 TRD wheel? I have had conflicting opinions on this one- so can someone clarify? Running 295-65-18 on LC. Spare is stock Dunlap that came with LC. Any problem in running different size spare with three other larger size tires if a flat would occur? Lucky so far.

In the detailed installation instructions which accompany the 17" TRD wheels, it says that only 4 wheels/tires are required - the factory spare (with OEM 285/60-18) tire) is fine as is.

FYI, there is a 4% difference in circumfrence between the 285/70-17 tire and the 285/60-18 tire. Following specs from TireRack.com:

285/60-18 31.5" Diameter 661 Revolutions/mile
285/70-17 32.8" Diameter 635 Revolutions/mile

I have not had to use the OEM spare yet, but I have every confidence that as long as it is used as a spare, i.e. as an emergency temporary replacement, there will be no problem.

HTH

 

[SWUtah]

In the detailed installation instructions which accompany the 17" TRD wheels, it says that only 4 wheels/tires are required - the factory spare (with OEM 285/60-18) tire) is fine as is.

FYI, there is a 4% difference in circumfrence between the 285/70-17 tire and the 285/60-18 tire. Following specs from TireRack.com:

285/60-18 31.5" Diameter 661 Revolutions/mile
285/70-17 32.8" Diameter 635 Revolutions/mile

I have not had to use the OEM spare yet, but I have every confidence that as long as it is used as a spare, i.e. as an emergency temporary replacement, there will be no problem.

HTH

Not a good idea, don't use different sizes will screwup the diff's.

 

[gaijin]

Not a good idea, don't use different sizes will screwup the diff's.

If that were the case, then going around curves must really screw up the diffs ...

The Turning Circle spec on a new LC200 is 38.7 feet (464.4 inches).

The Track on a new LC200 is approx. 65 inches.

Let's look at the difference in rotation between the inner and outer tires of a LC200 driving in a circle 50 feet (600 inches) in diameter:

Outer wheel: 600 inches x Pi = 1,885 inches travelled in one complete circle

Inner wheel: 535 inches (600-65) x Pi = 1,681 inches travelled in one complete circle

1,885 / 1,681 = approximately 12% difference!

So ... in order to avoid "screwing up the diffs," we should only drive in straight lines?

:whoops:

 

[SteveM]

Hey - same look

Only I'm running some Local Bridgestone D694 AT's in 285 70 R17.

Cheers
Steve
Adelaide, Australia.

 

[gaijin]

Very nice, Steve!