2013 Fog Light Problem (1 Viewer)

[ViperJustin]

Im having a problem with my 2013 fog lights. They aren't working. I have replaced the lights (I've tried LED and regular bulbs), the fuse, and the ballast(?). When I rotate the switch, the green light for the fog lights comes on, but the actual lights do not. I have run out of solutions at this point.

Does anyone know where else the problem could be?

Thank you!

 

[lx200inAR]

Do you have a volt meter? There may be an obvious solution, but you need to test the wiring at different points to see where you are not getting power. It’s likely to be a fuse or relay, but could be a break in the wiring somewhere. Start at one end of the circuit and work you way towards the opposite end.

 

[bloc]

Im having a problem with my 2013 fog lights. They aren't working. I have replaced the lights (I've tried LED and regular bulbs), the fuse, and the ballast(?). When I rotate the switch, the green light for the fog lights comes on, but the actual lights do not. I have run out of solutions at this point.

Does anyone know where else the problem could be?

Thank you!

There shouldn't be any ballasts for the fogs as they are regular incandescent bulbs. Let's try and figure out what it was that you changed.. where was it?

On second thought.. maybe a previous owner swapped an HID conversion into the fog location? Can you attach some pictures of the bulbs?

There is a small relay in the under-hood fuse box for the fogs.. definitely troubleshoot that. A good method here is to swap that relay with another one of the same size/format from the fuse box. Just locate another one in there that has the same part number and remember where it came from to be able to put things back.

The fact that the light comes on the dash means the switch on your stalk works, and the body control module is "allowing" them to turn on. It will prevent this if high beams are on, due to programming. So at least the first half of the system is working.

 

[ViperJustin]

There shouldn't be any ballasts for the fogs as they are regular incandescent bulbs. Let's try and figure out what it was that you changed.. where was it?

On second thought.. maybe a previous owner swapped an HID conversion into the fog location? Can you attach some pictures of the bulbs?

There is a small relay in the under-hood fuse box for the fogs.. definitely troubleshoot that. A good method here is to swap that relay with another one of the same size/format from the fuse box. Just locate another one in there that has the same part number and remember where it came from to be able to put things back.

The fact that the light comes on the dash means the switch on your stalk works, and the body control module is "allowing" them to turn on. It will prevent this if high beams are on, due to programming. So at least the first half of the system is working.

Yes. I replaced the fuse and the relay in the fuse box with new Denso parts. The lights were just replaced yesterday while I was getting my oil changed (quick change place). Ill just have to bring it to Autozone or something like that and have them scan it. I guess thats the next step.

 

[bloc]

Yes. I replaced the fuse and the relay in the fuse box with new Denso parts. The lights were just replaced yesterday while I was getting my oil changed (quick change place). Ill just have to bring it to Autozone or something like that and have them scan it. I guess thats the next step.

I doubt their scanner will give you anything for the fog lights. The only thing that will impact their operation is the body control module and most scanners won't read it. Plus I think feedback from the fogs is limited.

If you've already done the relay then @lx200inAR is correct about using a voltmeter to trace things.

 

[ViperJustin]

I doubt their scanner will give you anything for the fog lights. The only thing that will impact their operation is the body control module and most scanners won't read it. Plus I think feedback from the fogs is limited.

If you've already done the relay then @lx200inAR is correct about using a voltmeter to trace things.

Damn... Sounds like I got a lot of work ahead of me.

Thanks!

 

[bloc]

Damn... Sounds like I got a lot of work ahead of me.

Thanks!

Please post what you find to add to the knowledge base here! and any questions on process, post them.

Tracking down electrical stuff isn't particularly difficult once you understand the concepts and can find the individual wires. All of which isn't too difficult with the resources here.

 

[kcjaz]

Tracking down electrical stuff isn't particularly difficult once you understand the concepts and can find the individual wires. All of which isn't too difficult with the resources here.

If electrical is easy, then why do most people need mechanical analogies (current = flow, voltage = pressure, bars = foam on a beer, etc.. ) to understand it? maybe it’s just me…

On a side note, after installing my new rear bumper tail lights, I tested the blinkers and sure enough, left switch turned on the right blinker and vice versa. Yep, it probably is me.

 

[bloc]

If electrical is easy, then why do most people need mechanical analogies (current = flow, voltage = pressure, bars = foam on a beer, eat. ) to understand it? maybe it’s just me…

On a side note, after installing my new rear bumper tail lights, I tested the blinkers and sure enough, left switch turned on the right blinker and vice versa. Yep, it probably is me.

Fortunately for stuff like tracking down fog lights not working most of that knowledge isn’t needed.

I would say predicting current demands and correctly designing a system isn’t “easy”.. personally. But that isn’t at all what we are talking about here.

I do like beer analogies though.

 

[Oogabooga]

Old thread but…. Did you ever figure out the issue? I’m having the exact same issue on my 13 LX. Icon on dash works, you can ever hear a click noise coming from what I assume is the fuse box when turning them on. Tried new bulbs and swapped around known good fuse and relays.

Just haven’t dove into tracing the wires back and checking for continuity, seems like it may be difficult without taking the whole grill off.

 

[bloc]

I’d look at the multi-pin connector on the driver’s side of the grille slats. On my 13 cruiser it is a black connector with a white lever that holds it together.

When I upgraded my fogs to LEDs I started having some continuity issues and it turned out to be corroded pins in there from the gasket leaking. At least one of the fog light wires was on the bottom so gravity meant they were impacted more.. plus higher current than the other wires in there.

In my case the pins were salvageable after cleaning and a new connector housing restored the weather seal. But as soon as I opened the connector and saw all the gunk in there it was obviously not ideal for what those wires need to do. The root cause was the gasket in there being cracked and degrading.

 

[TeCKis300]

Check the fog light fuse and relay in the engine bay fuse box. Use a voltmeter to check continuity and power when switched on.

 

[TeCKis300]

The pics in this thread might help you localize where the relay is ( was at 4. )

Lots of people have installed these but I couldn't find a good reference as to where to tap for various things underhood. Here's my attempt to document some of the more common taps and triggers. Including a much wanted stock fog light override function.

I'm using a 1/4" gland fitting to route wires into the fuse box. Working well in the location nearest to where I've mounted the Switchpros vertically on the inner fender behind this box.

I only used a few of the following tap points, and I'm happy to help consolidate points others may have used as a reference.

1) Ignition switched +12V trigger
2) Parking light switched +12V trigger
3) Fog stalk switch, active on Gnd
4) Power Fog lights directly +12V

Additional tap references
5) Backup light trigger, here, and here

View attachment 2364861

View attachment 2364862

 

[Oogabooga]

I’d look at the multi-pin connector on the driver’s side of the grille slats. On my 13 cruiser it is a black connector with a white lever that holds it together.

When I upgraded my fogs to LEDs I started having some continuity issues and it turned out to be corroded pins in there from the gasket leaking. At least one of the fog light wires was on the bottom so gravity meant they were impacted more.. plus higher current than the other wires in there.

In my case the pins were salvageable after cleaning and a new connector housing restored the weather seal. But as soon as I opened the connector and saw all the gunk in there it was obviously not ideal for what those wires need to do. The root cause was the gasket in there being cracked and degrading.

Thanks, I’ll have to check this out when I get a chance in a few days and report back. I know what connector you’re talking about, I had a feeling it could’ve been the issue. But I think because that connector seems to be shared with the front parking sensors, I assumed that since those work, that it couldn’t be the problem. However I guess it is possible that only certain pins within it are affected. I’m also now second guessing if the front parking sensors actually do work… lol, never really use them.

 

[bloc]

Thanks, I’ll have to check this out when I get a chance in a few days and report back. I know what connector you’re talking about, I had a feeling it could’ve been the issue. But I think because that connector seems to be shared with the front parking sensors, I assumed that since those work, that it couldn’t be the problem. However I guess it is possible that only certain pins within it are affected. I’m also now second guessing if the front parking sensors actually do work… lol, never really use them.

Yeah the same thought had me dismissing the connector at first. But the fog wiring being on the bottom and gravity being a thing meant that's all that was impacted, for me.

I took pictures of the issue at the time but not sure I still have them.. will have to dig into my phone.

 

[Oogabooga]

Check the fog light fuse and relay in the engine bay fuse box. Use a voltmeter to check continuity and power when switched on.

I swapped around both the relay and the fuse with known good ones already, and tested for resistance in each of them. But only while powered off so I never checked for actual power. I’ll give that a shot when I get a chance, thanks.
First time using my multi meter ever, and first electrical issue I’m dealing with. Just been winging it hoping what I’m checking is correct lol.

 

[Oogabooga]

Yeah the same thought had me dismissing the connector at first. But the fog wiring being on the bottom and gravity being a thing meant that's all that was impacted, for me.

I took pictures of the issue at the time but not sure I still have them.. will have to dig into my phone.

Assuming that is indeed the issue and you said you replaced the housing in order to get a new gasket in there, do you by any chance have the part # for it?

 

[TeCKis300]

I swapped around both the relay and the fuse with known good ones already, and tested for resistance in each of them. But only while powered off so I never checked for actual power. I’ll give that a shot when I get a chance, thanks.
First time using my multi meter ever, and first electrical issue I’m dealing with. Just been winging it hoping what I’m checking is correct lol.

Props for getting your hands dirty. We all start somewhere. YouTube university is a great place to get a crash coarse.

The one tricky thing about the relay logic is that its actually enabled via ground. Just the same, you should see 12V switched on to the fogs when the relay is enabled.

 

[Oogabooga]

Props for getting your hands dirty. We all start somewhere. YouTube university is a great place to get a crash coarse.

The one tricky thing about the relay logic is that it’s actually enabled via ground. Just the same, you should see 12V switched on to the fogs when the relay is enabled.

Yep that’s been the story of my life with the 200, first vehicle I’ve really done work on, my first project right after getting it was replacing a CV so I feel like I dove head first into it.

So is there a way to check the relay itself when it’s powered on then? If I remember correctly there aren’t little test lead things on the top of it like there is on the fuse.
Or just test the fuse with the ignition accessory on, if it’s getting powered then that would mean the relay obviously works.

 

[TeCKis300]

Yep that’s been the story of my life with the 200, first vehicle I’ve really done work on, my first project right after getting it was replacing a CV so I feel like I dove head first into it.

So is there a way to check the relay itself when it’s powered on then? If I remember correctly there aren’t little test lead things on the top of it like there is on the fuse.
Or just test the fuse with the ignition accessory on, if it’s getting powered then that would mean the relay obviously works.

In the thread referenced in my post back on #13, this picture should help. You can use some thin strands of wire and pinch it into the relay so you can reference it in action with the voltmeter. 4. Power Fog should be the pin your looking to see that comes on.

Backing up a bit as a sanity check, the fogs only come on when the parking lights are on, and the fog light is turned on.