2013-2015 LX 570 Current Pricing (1 Viewer)

[CactusHopper]

UPDATE:

Well, the deed is done. I purchased the 90k 2013 from Gullo Toyota. For those that are interested:

- Gullo realigned it the next morning after I commented that it was clearly out of alignment. I will post the alignment picture in the thread. It was massively out of alignment in front. This helped a ton with the handling, though I still found the handling a bit sloppy/loose but generally good (more on this later).
- Gullo said the auto wipers were working but finicky due to the non-OEM glass (more on this later haha).
- I took it to Clear Choice Lexus (Houston) for a pre-purchase inspection ($215) and talked through my concerns and questions. They concluded the following:
- No major concerns such as the cam oil leak or other obvious issues
- Drives fine/normal in their opinion
- Front shocks need replacing (!) which they agreed probably explains the bit of bouncy/jittery I could feel, particularly at 75-80 mph
- Tires are evenly worn with 20k left (Yokohama Geolandar H/T GO56; 285/50R20 - these are highway all-season not the all-terrain geolandars)
- Alignment from Gullo looks good and they specifically said they would trust Gullo's numbers and in general trust them not to sell a car with major frame/alignment issues (this was my main concern and they put me at ease)
- Auto rain sensor was not 100% flush/sealed to window; they fixed it and it works fine now (!)
- Quoted me $1,200 for both front shocks and $150 for alignment to take to Gullo
- Told me it looks like a great buy
- Gullo and I agreed I would walk away with a net positive $600 after trade-in and fees due to the shocks (via check); this will cover half of the quote
- I drove away with it and realized that the front window actually is Lexus OEM, the sticker was just 70% rubbed off because they applied some dealer tracking sticker there (!)

Final price was around $35,200 plus around $300 for title and fees.

So I will be looking at new front shocks at some point, which is fine. We also need to remove the PPF but I'm in no rush.

Thanks to everyone for your input, it definitely helped me think through the options. So far everyone (grandparents as well) agrees the LX is clearly more comfortable and spacious than the GX, even if it doesn't appear so much so on paper. Hoping to get a good 15 years and 150k+ out of this!

////

I would appreciate general thoughts on 2013-2015 LX 570 pricing as I'm in the market for one and there are several in Houston near me.

Below is a summary with links to the posting. Let's assume they all have equivalent service records and are in "good" shape for this discussion...

Red listings are the ones I'm most interested in mainly because they are local.

Link	Seller	MY	Mileage	Mi/Yr	Price	KBB Low	KBB High	Exterior	Interior
LINK	Monaco (FL)	2013	52,000	5,200	$41,000			Grey	Black
LINK	North Park (SA)	2015	88,000	11,000	$39,791	-	-	Black	White
LINK	Gullo Toyota	2013	90,000	9,000	$37,000	$29,463	$34,060	Silver	White
LINK	Park Place (Dallas)	2014	92,000	10,222	$37,771	-	-	White	White
LINK	Gillman Subaru	2014	98,000	10,889	$38,000	-	-	Black	Black
LINK	United (Dallas)	2014	114,000	12,667	$38,000	-	-	Grey	Black
LINK	Private	2013	121,000	12,100	$34,500	$22,339	$31,938	Black	Black
LINK	Private @ Clear Choice	2014	124,000	13,778	$38,950	$27,839	$32,666	White	Black
LINK	Private	2014	139,000	15,444	$36,500	$26,420	$31,067	Grey	Black
LINK	Private (Irving)	2013	140,000	14,000	$33,500	-	-	Black	White
LINK	Private	2013	143,000	14,300	$29,000	$22,808	$27,121	Grey	Black
LINK	Clear Choice	2013	151,000	15,100	$31,000	$26,161	$30,758	Grey	Black
	(removed, this was a GX)

Other than the 151k, they are all well over KBB range. I checked NADA, same thing. I guess people are hoping they can do well... The $124k seems well out of range, but it has TOYO AT3s and victory slides and a Grom Vline, so guess the seller is trying to get value back. Most of these have been sitting (photos of odometer show several thousand miles difference) so I am hoping most of these will come down a bit in price.

Our use case will be 7,500-10,000 mi/yr on cross-country camping trips with mild offroading (FSRs, beach, snow, etc.). I don't intend to do major rock climbing or to lift it. I do plan on towing a 15-25 ft trailer at near or at GVWR/tow capacity on half those miles per year. I would like it to serve us well for 10-15 years, so 75,000 to 150,000 more miles.

Without seeing them yet (I will this week), I am leaning towards the 151k and hoping issues are minimal... The 121k has great records but I wanted to avoid black due to heat. Maybe that's silly if it's the best deal...

Once I narrow these down, I'll post more specifics on records, issues, etc. I just want to hear from folks on the mileage and price vs. our use case (150k max over 15 years). FYI, I've read up on several of the threads with these questions and know what to look for in an older LX, just still seems like a lot for high mileage. : )

/// Quick update - I am leaning towards the 90k for $36k due to lower mileage. See latest posts for details... Will update with any conclusions!

Thanks a bunch.

 

[Redbull]

You said it bounced around so to rule it out: how old were the tires? 90k vs the 121k they could have led different lives. Mine would need a suspension refresh at 90k with the roads I drive on.

 

[CactusHopper]

You said it bounced around so to rule it out: how old were the tires? 90k vs the 121k they could have led different lives. Mine would need a suspension refresh at 90k with the roads I drive on.

Not sure, I didn't ask or check. They didn't look bare or anything obvious. It's obviously misaligned due to the steering wheel, which means the wheels have probably worn unevenly.

I am going to rely on the independent lexus shop (Clear Choice Lexus at the Woodlands) to tell me if it rides well or not, i just don't have enough experience to judge. My wife said it rode fine to her and she drives our 2014 Mercedes E350 Estate 4Matic, which is a nearly perfect drive. Airing the tires down to 33 psi from 45 psi (!) helped a ton and relieved a lot of my initial concerns.

I assume the indy shop will be able to tell me if 1) it's a normal ride, or 2) it's not normal but it's not anything major, just alignment/wheels/balance. If it was in a major accident and things are bent or majorly loose, they should be able to identify that in an inspect, correct? Might be good to just pay for them to align it to have the data and run it through their machine? I figure on any LX with 90k+ miles, I will be replacing AHC and shocks at some point in the next few years anyway, so it probably doesn't matter much to anticipate that and getting the lower mileage is preferred. I know some have said an extra 30k, 50k, "doesn't matter", but it seems if they are close in how they were taken care of (which we can only kind of guess at via records and interior/exterior quality) and the same price, then it makes sense to bet on the lower mileage....?

FYI, I have not driven or seen the 121k. I don't like the vibe I'm getting from the owner, where he said it's a 1 owner but turns out he bought it for himself and a few months later is reselling it and just happens to have a dealer's license... His reason was that now he "needs cash". He didn't want to trade in my GX but now he says he would for an "equal swap" which they are not... So a bit of a turn off even though the vehicle car fax he sent me looks good.

Let me know if our logic is stupid! Usually, we have bought CPO with < 50 k so this is new to us. : ) Thanks a lot to everyone for their input.

 

[doru]

All this you experience is perfectly normal when buying a used car. Your logic is not stupid. But with used cars and different buyers (you) or peanut gallery (us) there can be more than one correct answer.
To me what's the most important is how you'll feel after this is done. You should feel good! So that means you should be happy with the decisions you made.
All this is a long way of saying that if lower miles are important to you don't let anyone else tell you otherwise or don't listen to them.
Same, if you do not feel good with a seller, just walk away, unless you really, really want the truck he's selling - that was my case so I had to play the seller's game (but my seller was extremely fussy, not dishonest).
Regarding alignment, I would first see what the indi is saying. If the report looks good I guess that will seal the deal in your mind and then I'll pay for the alignment just to take it out of my mind.
Keep at it, you're doing a good job.

 

[CactusHopper]

All this you experience is perfectly normal when buying a used car. Your logic is not stupid. But with used cars and different buyers (you) or peanut gallery (us) there can be more than one correct answer.
To me what's the most important is how you'll feel after this is done. You should feel good! So that means you should be happy with the decisions you made.
All this is a long way of saying that if lower miles are important to you don't let anyone else tell you otherwise or don't listen to them.
Same, if you do not feel good with a seller, just walk away, unless you really, really want the truck he's selling - that was my case so I had to play the seller's game (but my seller was extremely fussy, not dishonest).
Regarding alignment, I would first see what the indi is saying. If the report looks good I guess that will seal the deal in your mind and then I'll pay for the alignment just to take it out of my mind.
Keep at it, you're doing a good job.

Thanks, this is what I'm trying to remind myself. I'm very analytical so it's easy for me to get sucked into different opinions, possibilities, etc. My wife is the opposite. She drove it for 20 minutes and was like "if this seat is comfortable and they put oil in this thing, buy it".

I do know 100% I enjoyed driving it much more than the GX. It's more roomy as the driver and the seat is worlds more comfortable (for me).

FYI - I "solved" the GX seat problem short-term but added a folded towel and cushion from our outdoor furniture. 100% confirmed the GX seat was killing me b/c I could drive like that for 2 hours twice this weekend without too much pain (still could feel the issues but they were minor). My glutes, legs, back are already recovering. Crazy. My butt is just not fat enough to counter those bolsters haha.

 

[ExpeditionMan]

I think this was mentioned earlier but you absolutely must factor in the radiator replacement and all the while you're there items like belt and pulleys, fan clutch + bracket/bearing, and spark plugs. My 2013 LX570 with ~123k miles also needed front wheel bearings which was very pricey even if you do your own labor. Wouldn't hurt to also assume pads (and maybe rotors) are on the docket as well. With this amount of maintenance on the horizon it may give you more negotiating power or push you to a higher mileage vehicle which has already had the work done. I know I would have done it differently in retrospect.

 

[CactusHopper]

@ExpeditionMan thanks for the suggestion. I am figuring on the radiator and any other maintenance items that make sense in the next 10k miles and assume that will add up to a few thousand dollars if I don't do the labor. Front pads and rotors were replaced by the dealer so those are new. Drive belt was done at 51k. Based on market value and the sale price, it seems we are getting a decent discount due to the PPF issue of $3-4k and perhaps I can knock them down another $1k.

I have it in for a PPI now and will talk through my concerns. If they feel it's in good condition I'll go for it.

FYI, the dealer did a new alignment this morning and it was way off up front before. It is now in alignment and does not pull nearly as much. It still feels like it occasionally tugs a bit left or right when above 75 mph but that could be simply how LXs drive at 75-80 mph on Yokohama Geolanders. Add in that the Geolanders probably wore unevenly and that could explain what I'm feeling. Will see what the Indy shop says....

 

[diesel22]

@ExpeditionMan thanks for the suggestion. I am figuring on the radiator and any other maintenance items that make sense in the next 10k miles and assume that will add up to a few thousand dollars if I don't do the labor. Front pads and rotors were replaced by the dealer so those are new. Drive belt was done at 51k. Based on market value and the sale price, it seems we are getting a decent discount due to the PPF issue of $3-4k and perhaps I can knock them down another $1k.

I have it in for a PPI now and will talk through my concerns. If they feel it's in good condition I'll go for it.

FYI, the dealer did a new alignment this morning and it was way off up front before. It is now in alignment and does not pull nearly as much. It still feels like it occasionally tugs a bit left or right when above 75 mph but that could be simply how LXs drive at 75-80 mph on Yokohama Geolanders. Add in that the Geolanders probably wore unevenly and that could explain what I'm feeling. Will see what the Indy shop says....

What is a PPI, if you don't mind me asking?

 

[thefourthdoctor]

What is a PPI, if you don't mind me asking?

Pre-Purchase Inspection, best done at an independent shop

 

[diesel22]

Pre-Purchase Inspection, best done at an independent shop

Ahh right, makes sense. Thanks.

 

[CactusHopper]

Attached is the alignment Gullo did Tuesday morning (I drove it the prior Friday). Shows that I was correct and it was out of alignment. Drove much better Tuesday afternoon (see my update in the main post).

Any input on this new alignment is welcome. I read through one of the long alignment/balancing threads but otherwise know nothing about these... The Indy felt it's a good alignment and while it could be tweaked to personal preference, said it shows the car is generally in good shape assuming you "trust" Gullo's numbers.

Question - If a car can be aligned, does that imply it's frame, etc. is in "good shape" i.e., not bent? If it "can not" be aligned, does that imply there is a major bent component? Also, the Indy suggested that numbers can be made to look good.... Sounds like alignments are really nuanced?

 

[CactusHopper]

Photo for posterity's sake..... : )