2013-2015 LX 570 Current Pricing (1 Viewer)

[CactusHopper]

UPDATE:

Well, the deed is done. I purchased the 90k 2013 from Gullo Toyota. For those that are interested:

- Gullo realigned it the next morning after I commented that it was clearly out of alignment. I will post the alignment picture in the thread. It was massively out of alignment in front. This helped a ton with the handling, though I still found the handling a bit sloppy/loose but generally good (more on this later).
- Gullo said the auto wipers were working but finicky due to the non-OEM glass (more on this later haha).
- I took it to Clear Choice Lexus (Houston) for a pre-purchase inspection ($215) and talked through my concerns and questions. They concluded the following:
- No major concerns such as the cam oil leak or other obvious issues
- Drives fine/normal in their opinion
- Front shocks need replacing (!) which they agreed probably explains the bit of bouncy/jittery I could feel, particularly at 75-80 mph
- Tires are evenly worn with 20k left (Yokohama Geolandar H/T GO56; 285/50R20 - these are highway all-season not the all-terrain geolandars)
- Alignment from Gullo looks good and they specifically said they would trust Gullo's numbers and in general trust them not to sell a car with major frame/alignment issues (this was my main concern and they put me at ease)
- Auto rain sensor was not 100% flush/sealed to window; they fixed it and it works fine now (!)
- Quoted me $1,200 for both front shocks and $150 for alignment to take to Gullo
- Told me it looks like a great buy
- Gullo and I agreed I would walk away with a net positive $600 after trade-in and fees due to the shocks (via check); this will cover half of the quote
- I drove away with it and realized that the front window actually is Lexus OEM, the sticker was just 70% rubbed off because they applied some dealer tracking sticker there (!)

Final price was around $35,200 plus around $300 for title and fees.

So I will be looking at new front shocks at some point, which is fine. We also need to remove the PPF but I'm in no rush.

Thanks to everyone for your input, it definitely helped me think through the options. So far everyone (grandparents as well) agrees the LX is clearly more comfortable and spacious than the GX, even if it doesn't appear so much so on paper. Hoping to get a good 15 years and 150k+ out of this!

////

I would appreciate general thoughts on 2013-2015 LX 570 pricing as I'm in the market for one and there are several in Houston near me.

Below is a summary with links to the posting. Let's assume they all have equivalent service records and are in "good" shape for this discussion...

Red listings are the ones I'm most interested in mainly because they are local.

Link	Seller	MY	Mileage	Mi/Yr	Price	KBB Low	KBB High	Exterior	Interior
LINK	Monaco (FL)	2013	52,000	5,200	$41,000			Grey	Black
LINK	North Park (SA)	2015	88,000	11,000	$39,791	-	-	Black	White
LINK	Gullo Toyota	2013	90,000	9,000	$37,000	$29,463	$34,060	Silver	White
LINK	Park Place (Dallas)	2014	92,000	10,222	$37,771	-	-	White	White
LINK	Gillman Subaru	2014	98,000	10,889	$38,000	-	-	Black	Black
LINK	United (Dallas)	2014	114,000	12,667	$38,000	-	-	Grey	Black
LINK	Private	2013	121,000	12,100	$34,500	$22,339	$31,938	Black	Black
LINK	Private @ Clear Choice	2014	124,000	13,778	$38,950	$27,839	$32,666	White	Black
LINK	Private	2014	139,000	15,444	$36,500	$26,420	$31,067	Grey	Black
LINK	Private (Irving)	2013	140,000	14,000	$33,500	-	-	Black	White
LINK	Private	2013	143,000	14,300	$29,000	$22,808	$27,121	Grey	Black
LINK	Clear Choice	2013	151,000	15,100	$31,000	$26,161	$30,758	Grey	Black
	(removed, this was a GX)

Other than the 151k, they are all well over KBB range. I checked NADA, same thing. I guess people are hoping they can do well... The $124k seems well out of range, but it has TOYO AT3s and victory slides and a Grom Vline, so guess the seller is trying to get value back. Most of these have been sitting (photos of odometer show several thousand miles difference) so I am hoping most of these will come down a bit in price.

Our use case will be 7,500-10,000 mi/yr on cross-country camping trips with mild offroading (FSRs, beach, snow, etc.). I don't intend to do major rock climbing or to lift it. I do plan on towing a 15-25 ft trailer at near or at GVWR/tow capacity on half those miles per year. I would like it to serve us well for 10-15 years, so 75,000 to 150,000 more miles.

Without seeing them yet (I will this week), I am leaning towards the 151k and hoping issues are minimal... The 121k has great records but I wanted to avoid black due to heat. Maybe that's silly if it's the best deal...

Once I narrow these down, I'll post more specifics on records, issues, etc. I just want to hear from folks on the mileage and price vs. our use case (150k max over 15 years). FYI, I've read up on several of the threads with these questions and know what to look for in an older LX, just still seems like a lot for high mileage. : )

/// Quick update - I am leaning towards the 90k for $36k due to lower mileage. See latest posts for details... Will update with any conclusions!

Thanks a bunch.

 

[CactusHopper]

What is your budget? There must be a reason you posted that one with 52,000 miles. I looked at all the pictures it looks great. Seats aren't super worn, leather isn't greasy.

There is a $6,500 difference (asking price to asking price) between that one and the black one with 121k miles. Now deduct from that price difference stuff you'll have to do like the radiator, water pump - maybe even suspension? And if you're keeping this as long as you say that price difference can be spread out. Also you are far more likely to keep the gray low mile one, because when you add 150k miles to it - it will only have 200k miles at that point. Compared to almost 300k miles.

It's more fun to add the miles yourself, but everyone's budgets and desires vary.

I put that 52k on there because if it were in Houston I would consider it. My concern is it's in FL and 1) Rust (I assume this is a concern in FL due to beach driving and humidity/salt area?), 2) Flooding, and 3) I can't get a feel for the condition without flying out and crossing fingers... Just seems like a huge barrier to overcome.

 

[Redbull]

Budget is not a particular problem. Honestly, we haven't set a budget per se. My dilemma is that I bought a 2018 GX CPO with 46k miles recently with the idea that it would be our vehicle. But it's giving me a lot of lower back and glute pains (and yeah, i've read every forum on this lol) and for other reasons as well, I now feel the LX really would've been the better purchase and am having regrets. So I'm trying to find an LX that is reasonable to move into. We paid $42.8k for the GX and that was around our budget, but we could've gone higher or lower without any concern.

For now, I think I will just keep driving and be patient, see how the seat goes and maybe the problem "goes away."

I would also consider a 2016+ but the grill is horrible and there's a 10-15k markup.. The infotainment isn't really worth it IMO. That said, I haven't sat in one, so I should go do that and confirm those assumptions...

Thanks for the input.

Have you driven one? We need to make sure it solves the seat problem. You'll want the least used one for sure, and also look for excessive creases. Most of the time it's from people sliding off the bolster. But sometimes you can just tell when a larger person used it.

I would get a carfax on that gray one, if it checks out, then fly out and check it out. Because that's a good price compared to others under 75k miles, which on auto trader is only 8. Expanding to under 100k you see some but they have beige interiors.

 

[CactusHopper]

Have you driven one? We need to make sure it solves the seat problem. You'll want the least used one for sure, and also look for excessive creases. Most of the time it's from people sliding off the bolster. But sometimes you can just tell when a larger person used it.

I would get a carfax on that gray one, if it checks out, then fly out and check it out. Because that's a good price compared to others under 75k miles, which on auto trader is only 8. Expanding to under 100k you see some but they have beige interiors.

I drove two back-to-back for a total of an hour or so. The seat is clearly more cushioned and the bolsters flatter/broader (if that makes sense). I suppose the seat was wider but that wasn't obvious. The lumber seemed taller, i.e. more of the seat moves in/out vs the GX. The thigh extenders were nice. Overall it felt more supportive and cushy vs. GX.

On the GX, after about 30 minutes I get a bunch of aches/pain in lower back, glutes (particularly left), and occasionally twinging/shooting in legs. Attributing it to the lumbar (which is more of a cylinder feel vs pillow; though I've tried in and out and both end up not helping), the stiff/angled bolsters which feel very rigid at their base, and the shorter seat. I am 6-ft 170 lbs, and my inner knee is around 3-4 fingers lengths off the cushion, where as it should ideally be 1-2. I've tried all sorts of positions. Will go with a cushion/towel for a while and see if that helps.

Seems crazy to fly out... What if it smells? Some other weird thing? : ) I can see how it makes sense rationally....

 

[Supra Turbo]

I get the grill looks more plow-ish, but the 2013-15 and 16+ have the same approach angle. I think on the LX the 08-11s look the best and are best off road out of the box, but I would like to have the 2013 features (HIDs, Updated 4wd controls MTS/Turn assist, 2nd row 12v) and if you are going to cut up your bumpers anyways, then doesn't really matter how low it is.

The OP chart pretty much proves that the value isn't 40-45k for 13-15 as he has 5 listed there with <100k miles and all but 1 are under 40k.


Source

Anything can have a great approach angle with cut up bumpers haha. My preference to 2013-2015 is due to combination of tech and looks in stock form.

I would consider all but one example that OP listed with 52k miles as high mile examples and that one example is $41k+... which is a great price, but it doesn't really look the greatest condition.

 

[Redbull]

I drove two back-to-back for a total of an hour or so. The seat is clearly more cushioned and the bolsters flatter/broader (if that makes sense). I suppose the seat was wider but that wasn't obvious. The lumber seemed taller, i.e. more of the seat moves in/out vs the GX. The thigh extenders were nice. Overall it felt more supportive and cushy vs. GX.

On the GX, after about 30 minutes I get a bunch of aches/pain in lower back, glutes (particularly left), and occasionally twinging/shooting in legs. Attributing it to the lumbar (which is more of a cylinder feel vs pillow; though I've tried in and out and both end up not helping), the stiff/angled bolsters which feel very rigid at their base, and the shorter seat. I am 6-ft 170 lbs, and my inner knee is around 3-4 fingers lengths off the cushion, where as it should ideally be 1-2. I've tried all sorts of positions. Will go with a cushion/towel for a while and see if that helps.

Seems crazy to fly out... What if it smells? Some other weird thing? : ) I can see how it makes sense rationally....

If it was on bring a trailer from a reputable seller I would buy sight unseen. But this is a family hauler in its first life, and not every family hauls the same way. For how long you’re gonna keep it and the price it’s at I would fly out man. There’s not a lot of 2013-2015 LXs with that low of mileage kicking around. The best interior design in my opinion, it’s timeless.

 

[pcut]

As a point of reference, I just bought a '14 TX/MT car with 49k miles, white with tan, new tires and brakes, full maintenance records, mint condition for $43 all in from a Bozeman dealer. Owned by a TX family who used it to go back and forth from Houston to Bozeman and eventually just parked at their Bozeman house to use in the summers.

 

[aedgington]

KBB and JDP (NADA) haven’t been accurate about LCs/LXs in 15 years. Just throw any expectation about buying one at those numbers out of the window. Even MMR is an iffy valuation since most retail rather than wholesale. At this point KBB is just a joke/consumer scheme. And all three are owned by Cox.

Your best bet is to look in rural areas. Houston? Austin? Dallas? If it's a real truck and a steal, an employee bought it the day it was traded in.

 

[Justdoit]

Whatever you decide, just keep in mind, rare trucks command a premium, but most do not set price arbitrarily. Draw comparisons and make your own conclusion.

Also keep in mind that 10+ year old truck is only going to be getting older and things will be getting worse. Land cruisers are overbuilt but not to indefinite limits.

Some good reading:

How long can I expect my 2010 LC to last

My 2010 has 211K miles and drives great. Last time I had my oil changed the mechanic mentioned most 200 series LC last around 250K (maybe 300K) before major problems (chain, engine) start. Has that been the experience of others?

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[relaxing]

There’s no useful information in that thread

 

[diesel22]

This is a great thread, thanks for starting and sharing perspectives. I'm in the exact same boat, expanding my years to 2011 - 2015 (2011 got heated steering wheel and I always have cold hands). I'm in MI so my biggest issue w/o also flying somewhere is rust. Coming from an 02 4runner I'm excited to get into one of these but being patient on the right one.

 

[CactusHopper]

As a point of reference, I just bought a '14 TX/MT car with 49k miles, white with tan, new tires and brakes, full maintenance records, mint condition for $43 all in from a Bozeman dealer. Owned by a TX family who used it to go back and forth from Houston to Bozeman and eventually just parked at their Bozeman house to use in the summers.

Wow, that is what I paid for our 2018 GX at 46k mileage. Seems like a great deal.

 

[CactusHopper]

I am going to check out this one. 90k for $36k. The car fax shows 1-owner every 5k plus lists fluid flushes as the dealer that most carfaxes do not show. Assuming dealer did it right, that should be a good sign. They've been lowering the price by a thousand every few weeks and just lowered it again yesterday. It is parchment interior, but if is clean then we can probably keep it clean (we don't generally get our vehicles dirty other than some sand and dirt on the floor).

 

[diesel22]

Looks very nice, I'm like you, not wanting parchment interior if possible. There are a couple within a short flight for me in the same price range w/ slightly higher miles than this one for comparison purposes:

Autotrader - page unavailable

Autotrader - page unavailable

I am going to check out this one. 90k for $36k. The car fax shows 1-owner every 5k plus lists fluid flushes as the dealer that most carfaxes do not show. Assuming dealer did it right, that should be a good sign. They've been lowering the price by a thousand every few weeks and just lowered it again yesterday. It is parchment interior, but if is clean then we can probably keep it clean (we don't generally get our vehicles dirty other than some sand and dirt on the floor).

 

[CactusHopper]

Looks very nice, I'm like you, not wanting parchment interior if possible. There are a couple within a short flight for me in the same price range w/ slightly higher miles than this one for comparison purposes:

Autotrader - page unavailable

Autotrader - page unavailable

Everything I've read on the parchment online seems to point towards "if you clean/condition a few times a year, it'll look good". We don't jump in with mud and dirt caked on our clothes. We put down towels if we're at the beach. And I guess worst case in 5-10 years we could have it all reupholstered if we're still in love with the vehicle and want it refreshed.

The two black interiors i saw yesterday honestly didn't impress on the "cleanliness" of the leather. Lots of white-ish marks, it was very "slick" and "glossy" looking vs. matte. It almost looked plasticky vs. leather. So as long as we can keep the darkening of parchment to a minimum over the years, it might actually look nicer in some ways. Hard to know without seeing old ones in person and knowing how the person maintained it.

 

[bloc]

Everything I've read on the parchment online seems to point towards "if you clean/condition a few times a year, it'll look good". We don't jump in with mud and dirt caked on our clothes. We put down towels if we're at the beach. And I guess worst case in 5-10 years we could have it all reupholstered if we're still in love with the vehicle and want it refreshed.

The two black interiors i saw yesterday honestly didn't impress on the "cleanliness" of the leather. Lots of white-ish marks, it was very "slick" and "glossy" looking vs. matte. It almost looked plasticky vs. leather. So as long as we can keep the darkening of parchment to a minimum over the years, it might actually look nicer in some ways. Hard to know without seeing old ones in person and knowing how the person maintained it.

My black leather looked far less glossy after a thorough leatherique treatment. Plus it removed some lighter makeup stains that I couldn't get off other ways I had tried.

At this point I plan to do that every couple years to keep it looking good. All-in I feel it's less maintenance than a light colored interior would be..

 

[aM200]

Just to add some more references to the thread. I'm also in Houston, and bought my Houston owned 1-owner 2008 with 122k miles on it earlier this year for 25k. I ended up doing a lot of the common fixes plus some preventative maintenance. However, if you were to look at the service history on mine (which is effectively flawless) you wouldn't have expected to do any maintenance. What I'm saying is you should really be looking for, or expecting to do, all of the common faults on these when you're getting to that 10 year age. I ended up with a bit more of a project than I was expecting, but I also enjoy fixing up cars and has been a good ride so far.

 

[CactusHopper]

Just to add some more references to the thread. I'm also in Houston, and bought my Houston owned 1-owner 2008 with 122k miles on it earlier this year for 25k. I ended up doing a lot of the common fixes plus some preventative maintenance. However, if you were to look at the service history on mine (which is effectively flawless) you wouldn't have expected to do any maintenance. What I'm saying is you should really be looking for, or expecting to do, all of the common faults on these when you're getting to that 10 year age. I ended up with a bit more of a project than I was expecting, but I also enjoy fixing up cars and has been a good ride so far.

I've never worked on a car, so that's a hangup and I've leaned towards newer used or CPO. So I think that's part of why I'm nervous about high mileage. But this will not be a critical daily driver, so if something needs to be fixed and it's DIY capable, I could be patient working on it. Also seems there are lots of folks in this community locally who are eager to give advice! ; ) Thanks!

 

[diesel22]

Here is a private sale near me for $32k, 177k miles, some surface rust underneath but appears to be minor.

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[diesel22]

Here is a private sale near me for $32k, 177k miles, some surface rust underneath but appears to be minor.

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[CactusHopper]

Question on the car fax maintenance for folks.

1. What is "Transmission Fluid / Oil Leak Checked" in first screenshot? It was noted for several inspections but not in the last several servicings.
2. What is "Ride height suspension repair/adjustment"? Could be anything?

This is the 121k private sale at $34.5k. LINK All maintenance at dealer with the actual "XX,000 service" noted. He just did oil change for 120k though, so would need to do the 120k if purchased.