2011 LX570 - Jump started with wrong polarity, ABS not working, not sure what else going on.

[thought]

Hey guys,

So, my wife ran down the battery on the LX and in a truly terrible string of events following that, the LX wound up getting jump started with the cables crisscrossed. Got pulled off once the problem once they noticed something was wrong but the car was done at that point.

The next day I get over there and install a new battery, car starts up but now there are lights on left and right, an alarm tone is sounding and there brakes are super soft. I get it towed to a nearby show who says they can figure out the issue and I’m starting to realize that it might over their heads. They are telling me that they cant trust the codes until they fix the abs.

Basically they are telling me that something blew before the fuse could, which makes sense, and that I will need to replace the ABS ecu. I’m trying to figure out the part number so I can help find it online because they said that the local Toyota/lexus dealers are saying that the part is out of production and I need to buy a $2k+ master cylinder assembly in order to get the new control module.

Does it sound like they are right? I’m surprised that part is out of production because the 200 series just ended production a couple of years ago. And are they looking at the wrong ecu/control module that burned out? I’ve been looking up abs master cylinder diagrams and I dont see a control module attached to it:

https://parts.longolexus.com/v-2011-lexus-lx570--base--5-7l-v8-gas/electrical--abs-components

Thanks for any help in this, just trying to get out of this without spending thousands of dollars. And beyond the abs, is there anything else they should be looking at?

Or does anyone know of a good mechanic around the north jersey/Fort Lee area that would have more knowledge of how Lc’s work?

 

[Sandroad]

I’m a bit concerned you’re not sure about the shop competency. The LX is very complex electrically and this will need someone who isn’t just doing stuff on a wing and a prayer.

Do they know where all the fuses of all types are and have they individually tested every one?

Why does the ABS ECU have to be replaced before further diagnosis? Before you buy a $2k+ part, maybe get a second opinion?

If you want part number help from the gurus on here (@bloc), post the model year LX.

 

[lx200inAR]

In your link, part #6 is the ecu and it all comes as one part. Hence the box drawn around it with the master cylinder. Probably get a used one off eBay for a little cheaper, but that is a part that usually costs about the same new as used. Hooking up the battery backwards is bad news for Toyota ECUs. I don’t think they use a lot of protection against reversed polarity. There’s really no reason a fuse would blow in that scenario, as there isn’t an increased draw in electricity. A incandescent light bulb wouldn’t even care if you hooked up backwards, but the electronics do.

Does your shop have techstream and an FSM? There will certainly be steps on how to troubleshoot the skid control ECU for power, as well as some pretty tell tale DTCs from the main ECU.

Example image.

 

[bloc]

I’m a bit concerned you’re not sure about the shop competency. The LX is very complex electrically and this will need someone who isn’t just doing stuff on a wing and a prayer.

This.

Does your shop have techstream and an FSM? There will certainly be steps on how to troubleshoot the skid control ECU for power, as well as some pretty tell tale DTCs from the main ECU.

And this.


Also a very long time ago I personally blew the primary fuses in a Mazda vehicle by reversing jumper cables. In a 200 fuse box the equivalent would be the large fuse module that requires disassembling the box to swap out. Not that that’s necessarily the issue here, I’d hope the shop checked.. but as lx200inAR said the FSM has a comprehensive diagnostic guide for systems like this. If the shop isn’t using that I would have trouble trusting their recommendations.

 

[RET2]

What am I missing, when the last of the 2 cables is hooked up sparks should have been flying even before the start sequence was initiated.

 

[Sandroad]

What am I missing, when the last of the 2 cables is hooked up sparks should have been flying even before the start sequence was initiated.

Yup, I got a good chuckle out of the phrase “….once they noticed something was wrong.” I bet it was a memorable event attempting to do some accidental welding.

 

[thought]

Thanks for the replies guys and I wasn’t there for the fireworks show when they hooked up the cables.

I’ll post in the local section to see if there is a known good mechanic I can bring the LX too, I’d like to avoid the dealer if possible but that does exist as a option if worst comes to worst.

I’ll check with the current guys to see if they have a tech stream but I’m pretty sure they don’t. I actually can access the VM one so maybe I’ll bring it over to pull some codes.

Fingers crossed it won’t be any worse than the abs modules.

 

[thought]

In your link, part #6 is the ecu and it all comes as one part. Hence the box drawn around it with the master cylinder. Probably get a used one off eBay for a little cheaper, but that is a part that usually costs about the same new as used. Hooking up the battery backwards is bad news for Toyota ECUs. I don’t think they use a lot of protection against reversed polarity. There’s really no reason a fuse would blow in that scenario, as there isn’t an increased draw in electricity. A incandescent light bulb wouldn’t even care if you hooked up backwards, but the electronics do.

Does your shop have techstream and an FSM? There will certainly be steps on how to troubleshoot the skid control ECU for power, as well as some pretty tell tale DTCs from the main ECU.

Example image.

View attachment 3872831

Thanks for this reply, it’s showing that you can buy just part #6

https://parts.longolexus.com/oem-parts/lexus-solenoid-4721760230

Or is that just me misunderstanding the parts diagram

 

[lx200inAR]

Thanks for this reply, it’s showing that you can buy just part #6

https://parts.longolexus.com/oem-parts/lexus-solenoid-4721760230

Or is that just me misunderstanding the parts diagram

I guess you can buy just that part. But it costs almost what the whole thing costs. I'm sure the labor to swap it out is probably less, so probably worth just buying the one part. That's probably why I had it in my head that you just buy the whole thing.

Although, that part is called "Solenoid", so i wonder if that part is under the ECU and just the same shape. Or if the ECU comes attached to the solenoid. That i don't know. The drawing is clearly of the ECU. The electrical connector is there. So hopefully it's the right part. It also says in the notes that it's for the w/o precrash models.


Here is the post where someone talks about replacing that ECU. In the case here he was upgrading from a pre 2013 to a post 2013-15. So I woudln't use his part numbers.

[Guide] Retrofitting Multi-Terrain/Turn-Assist/5-Speed Crawl

This post details how I retrofitted 2013+ 5 Speed Crawl-Control (CC), Multi-Terrain Select (MTS), and Offroad Turn-Assist (OTA) into my 2010 LX570 that came standard with the paltry 3 speed CC. I had to do this because my control switch had chipped paint and was really bringing down the...

forum.ih8mud.com

Skid-Control ECU: 47025-60510 (as mine does not have pre-crash). On our models, the Skid-Control ECU is attached to the master cylinder. You can buy the brand new parts for $1,150 online, and then disassemble your unit (abs pump assembly) to replace certain parts, or just go on eBay and buy the entire actuator assembly which is what I did. Cost was $1,200. The benefit was that I got a newer complete assembly and was able to keep mine on the bench for repairs later. In my quest to get it to work I also bought an OEM master cylinder and swapped over parts from my 2010 because one can never have enough brake master cylinders. Easy to do, takes 10 minutes.

 

[lx200inAR]

Also, before I steer you too far the wrong way. The ECU is different depending on if your LX has pre-collision or not.

 

[lx200inAR]

Okay last post. Here's a picture that pretty much confirms the ECU is listed as "Solenoid". Different model than the one you listed above. But shows the Toyota box says "Solenoid".

 

[bloc]

Personally if the parts cost were similar I’d absolutely install a whole new assembly, even if the labor is higher.

With the whole assembly you’ll get a brand new accumulator pump, accumulator, and master cylinder. All three of those are (expensive) wear parts. The chance to start fresh on them for not much more than just the electronics would be very valuable.

 

[gasman4u]

It may be as simple as the abs module. But if the polarity was reversed, you sure your computers are working like they should (CAN/…..BMS?, etc) and the wiring is intact?

CCN (all hail his name) had a video about electronics issues on an older Avalon iirc recently and seemed like the “abs” light is one of the first things that comes on when there’s a bad wire, cpu, etc.

Just something to consider

 

[lx200inAR]

It may be as simple as the abs module. But if the polarity was reversed, you sure your computers are working like they should (CAN/…..BMS?, etc) and the wiring is intact?

CCN (all hail his name) had a video about electronics issues on an older Avalon iirc recently and seemed like the “abs” light is one of the first things that comes on when there’s a bad wire, cpu, etc.

Just something to consider

I agree....There isn't a lot of info in this thread so I don't want to do too much keyboard mechanicing. But I'd be far more worried about the fact that the Autel device says it can't talk to the primary ECU over being worried about the ABS light. And i wouldn't do anything to the ABS until I was talking to the main ECU.

A quick check for the main ECU is to check to see if the "Check Engine" light comes on when ignition is turned on. If it never flashes, then pretty good chance the main ECU circuit isn't working.

 

[gasman4u]

This is far beyond me short of what I’ve seen on YT. But I too have doubts if your mechanic is focusing exclusively on the abs assembly given the light. @thought if you’re thinking your mechanic is out of his depth, there’s no harm in saying thanks and moving on.

 

[Sandroad]

In your link, part #6 is the ecu and it all comes as one part. Hence the box drawn around it with the master cylinder. Probably get a used one off eBay for a little cheaper, but that is a part that usually costs about the same new as used. Hooking up the battery backwards is bad news for Toyota ECUs. I don’t think they use a lot of protection against reversed polarity. There’s really no reason a fuse would blow in that scenario, as there isn’t an increased draw in electricity. A incandescent light bulb wouldn’t even care if you hooked up backwards, but the electronics do.

Does your shop have techstream and an FSM? There will certainly be steps on how to troubleshoot the skid control ECU for power, as well as some pretty tell tale DTCs from the main ECU.

Example image.

View attachment 3872831

I have a question about your comment regarding no reason for fuses to blow. In a simple reverse polarity with one battery, I agree. There will be damage, but not from overcurrent. But in this case a good battery in a running vehicle was hooked up reverse to a dead battery. A tremendous amount of current would flow. Is that all limited to just the cables and battery and so would not affect any fuses?

 

[lx200inAR]

I have a question about your comment regarding no reason for fuses to blow. In a simple reverse polarity with one battery, I agree. There will be damage, but not from overcurrent. But in this case a good battery in a running vehicle was hooked up reverse to a dead battery. A tremendous amount of current would flow. Is that all limited to just the cables and battery and so would not affect any fuses?

Honestly, with the how complicated automotive systems are, I’m not sure how the frame being grounded to things would affect everything. But electricity is going to go to the path of least resistance. An open short is always going to be less resistant than a load of any sort. Since the jumper cable stuff is all “behind” the fuse box and all the loads, I don’t know how a mass influx of amperage between the two batteries would affect anything behind the fuse panel. I'm not saying it wouldn't for sure. I could be totally wrong, if somehow the vehicle and it's systems became the path of least resistance between the dead battery's terminals. I'm not going to do any experiments with mine to see what happens. Haha. But i'm pretty sure fuses generally only blow when the wire after the fuse shorts out. Obviously putting a 2nd battery on backwards isn't a normal state, so it may do some funny things, and may depend on the states of both the dead and charged battery on how bad it affects the vehicle.

Even if the circuits in the dead vehicle become a valid path for electron flow, the load still isn't going to draw more power than it normally would, so I still wouldn't think you'd blow fuses. I'm not an electrical engineer though, so probably talking about of my a** a bit. Should probably preface all of this with that.

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

If it were me, I'd check every fuse and relay before throwing any other parts at this.

 

[grinchy]

There are fusible links on a carrier on the engine side of the fuse box. I’d start there. They can all be replaced at once in a module, and are not repairable

 

[thought]

There is one more piece of info that I forgot to mention that hopefully might help...

I was thinking it was the fuses as well, so I went and got a 50amp 56volt fuse directly from Lexus for the abs. I was hoping that I could just pop it out and everything would come back online. Well, the second I put it in, it popped and burnt out. At that point is when I called the tow truck and had it towed because if a new battery and a new fuse wasnt gonna get it going, it wasnt going to be a roadside fix.

The guys at the shop were saying that thats pointing to a short somewhere... could that be a melted wire?

And after this thread I'm leaning towards just dropping it off at the dealer unless anyone knows a good shop in the NYC/NJ area.