2010 lx570 blown engine.

[TeCKis300]

yeah thats the plan it seems but i saw 2 options flexfuel and non flexfuel. also wondering are all the 3ur engines the same. can i just use one from a 2010 tundra.

after checking some prices i found a few motors from 3500-5000 range. my shop told me its gonna cost me about 8k. and was wondering if this is a decent price?


as for what happened im not sure yet. just want to know what its gonna cost me if i have to replace whole motor.

I can't 100% for sure regarding the flexfuel vs non-flexfuel. I would opt for the non-flexfuel. Likely both would work however as it's probably more a function of an external fuel tank sensor and an ECU thing. You'll be using your LX specific ECU. I doubt there's any difference in the injectors, but when they swap the motor, have them check to make sure. Or they can just swap the injectors overs. It's relatively cake with the motor on a stand. If you want 100% confidence, get a motor from a 200-series as a donor. LC motors, while the same as tundras and sequoias, are manufactured in a different plant.

I have pulled and dropped motors in one day in my garage (albeit not an LC). A shop should be able to do that too. Let's double it for margin. 16-20hrs * the shop rate, doesn't equate to what they quoted. Shops have overhead and other things so I get it. Just a rough metric to go by if you want to know if the cost is fair.

 

[Reckless]

He would run out of fuel in a couple of hrs, calling BS on claim

He did stop for gas every 2 hours and I did triple check today it is possible to cruise at 130mph. I don't care if anyone believes me or not. I am just saying land cruiser motor seems almost bulletproof to me and can handle very high level of abuse. For me that instance was the biggest level of abuse I put mine through. Some people do very late oil changes and still the motor keeps ticking.

@Markuson I really didn't know he was going that speed as I was sleeping in the back. I would have probably freaked out. The land cruiser makes passengers feel like its going slower than what it is. The only reason I know he did that speed as he was hauling the whole night like a bat out of hell. I did get one of those speeding felonies when I was 24 and that's why I put custom radar detectors/laser jammers in everyone of my cars. The driver recently did get a nasty speeding ticket for 30 mph over speed limit in illinois and has to do community service.

@rps13sr BUR Autocare in Addison, IL. He is a great guy and services my fleet of vehicles. He wasn't too happy with the tundra swap as there was more labor involved. My gut feeling is that the 200 is extra tight and has alot more going on that the 100.

 

[RET2]

Glad it's your vehicle not mine. At least you're here to recount the experience. Congrats.

 

[2001LC]

I see claims of amazing prices I'd pay to have some do a non direct swap for me, and I do all my own work.

But too swap a 100 series 2UZ-fe with a non 100 series 2UZ-fe like tundra, well many parts need swapping. First off the battery/starter wire harness is different. This means a starter job, which shops' charge in a range of $400 to $600 alone for labor. Then the oil pan all the way to pick up tube swap is added labor and parts. Best to do T-belt water pump job while out, add for that job. Oil cooler and filter housing, add. Exhaust manifold needs swapping, add. Engine mount, add. Main wire harness, add. A/C drain, disconnect and recharge add. Radiator R&R, add. Fluids, add. List goes on. None of that included pulling or dropping in much less finding, shipping and inspecting the replacement engine.

As for the 200 series swap with a non 200 series I can't say what needs swapping, as I've never done or looked into. But I assumed many difference.

I would stick with used Japanese built 200 series within same year range. This would keep labor and parts cost down. Additionally engine would have tightest tolerance, or so we found in the 2UZ between Japan/USA builds.

@rps13sr I don't see where you said what's wrong with "blown" engine or how it happened. Other than PO issues with oil perhaps!

Did you buy it blown or did it blow while you driving. You mentioned oil what's the deal no oil pressure, no compression, what???

Inquiring minds want to know:
WHO said it's blown and WHY the call?

 

[JohnJB]

Are we taking bets as to what blown motor is yet?
I'll put my money on spun bearing, please.

 

[TeCKis300]

@2001LC, I'm sure you know this as sounds like you have some experience tinkering as well. 3/4 of any service job is removing peripheral accessories, tool access, and contorting to get at stuff. So a $400-$600 starter job (which I'm in the middle of at the moment ), is a 5 bolt 10 minute job, when the engine is on a stand. Basically 90% of the labor could be superseded by effort to remove the motor. Totally agreed that the transplant should be fully inspected and R&R'd prior to installing.

If I had to guess at the failure mode of the motor, I'd place my bets on overheating due to some cooling system/coolant loss situation. An oiling problem would be high on my list as well.

A motor failing outright due to high load in and of itself is rare. The ECU has many fail safes to protect from overload.

 

[GordJ]

Just curious and not a negger, what rpm does it turn over at that speed and what mpg was showing. Inquiring mind wants to know. After the Z rated tires came off I am reluctant to exceed 100 even though it looks really fast in km/h's.

 

[2001LC]

@2001LC, I'm sure you know this as sounds like you have some experience tinkering as well. 3/4 of any service job is removing peripheral accessories, tool access, and contorting to get at stuff. So a $400-$600 starter job (which I'm in the middle of at the moment ), is a 5 bolt 10 minute job, when the engine is on a stand. Basically 90% of the labor could be superseded by effort to remove the motor. Totally agreed that the transplant should be fully inspected and R&R'd prior to installing.

If I had to guess at the failure mode of the motor, I'd place my bets on overheating due to some cooling system/coolant loss situation. An oiling problem would be high on my list as well.

A motor failing outright due to high load in and of itself is rare. The ECU has many fail safes to protect from overload.

Swapping parts is only if not a direct replacement engine. But Yes for sure it easier to replace starter and stuff like oil cooler with engine on stand.

But not that much faster by bookable time if at all to swap parts. Additionally, again in the 2UZ as I've not done a 3UR. But if not not a direct replacement. What swapped to one engine must be removed from the another engine. Unless you want added cost of buying new parts. So time is doubled time. You need ~1 to 2 hour just for setting up two engine on stands & hoist.

I've a estimate in hand for a 2007 2UZ-fe blown engine with radiator and miscl. It's ~#12.5K from a Toyota Dealer. I also know working on the 200 series is more time consuming in most job, at least for me. That a 4 cam VVTi is generally pricery engine (0-), than a 2 cam VVti (06-07), or non VVT (98-05).

Replaced/rebuilt engine in a 200 series for $800 to $2K would be a miracle, unless DIY.

 

[CLHickman]

This is like Days of Our Lives...

 

[TeCKis300]

Swapping parts is only if not a direct replacement engine. But Yes for sure it easier to replace starter and stuff like oil cooler with engine on stand.

But not that much faster by bookable time if at all to swap parts. Additionally, again in the 2UZ as I've not done a 3UR. But if not not a direct replacement. What swapped to one engine must be removed from the another engine. Unless you want added cost of buying new parts. So time is doubled time. You need ~1 to 2 hour just for setting up two engine on stands & hoist.

I've a estimate in hand for a 2007 2UZ-fe blown engine with radiator and miscl. It's ~#12.5K from a Toyota Dealer. I also know working on the 200 series is more time consuming in most job, at least for me. That a 4 cam VVTi is generally pricery engine (0-), than a 2 cam VVti (06-07), or non VVT (98-05).

Replaced/rebuilt engine in a 200 series for $800 to $2K would be a miracle, unless DIY.

I don't disagree with you. And I don't know if a Tundra motor is largely like for like in the configuration of the oil pan and such. Actual shop time isn't that much even if it didn't match and they had to swap parts. The reality is a customer likely will pay at least 2x what the actual labor time was, so yes, my estimates would be way low in that regard.

 

[War330]

I bought my 200 with a different motor. Don’t know the details of the swap sorry. But everything seem fine so far 13,000 miles later. It looked like it overheated via the radiator according to my buddy a Lexus mechanic. He told me that once they overheat the engine is trash.

 

[RET2]

Flex vs regular config I would stick with the regular model as E85 eats rubber hoses and while the motor may like it everything downstream will suffer.

 

[Volunteer]

funny my max speed is 154, 2003 evo with 450 wheel hp

Nice, I also enjoyed some good sprints in my Vishnu tuned Evo as well I pushed to 158 on a isolated stretch of interstate heading South from TN one trip. Mostly raced it in the local SCCA races around the state. That car was a blast in the end it was so built up it bucked liked a bronco on the low speed commutes to work so I sold it to buy and build another 40.

 

[2001LC]

I bought my 200 with a different motor. Don’t know the details of the swap sorry. But everything seem fine so far 13,000 miles later. It looked like it overheated via the radiator according to my buddy a Lexus mechanic. He told me that once they overheat the engine is trash.

Overheating do to low coolant is most common reason for engine failure IMHO

 

[War330]

Exactly what my buddy said he said the likely senario was that the radiator cracked and they kept driving it with no coolant. That’s why I ended up keeping it. He said what ever was broken is fixed. Got a new radiator and most likely then not a engine that has less miles then what my odometer says (123000)

 

[2001LC]

You can run the VIN # which is also on the engine with carfax, Toyota/Lexus, etc . You'll learn MFD, miles and model it was in. Often times by google the VIN you'll see picture of vehicle it was in.

 

[War330]

You can run the VIN # which is also on the engine with carfax, Toyota/Lexus, etc . You'll learn MFD, miles and model it was in. Often times by google the VIN you'll see picture of vehicle it was in.

Nice didn’t think of that thanx for the tip I’ll need to do that I always wonder what I really have hopefully it’s good.

 

[rps13sr]

Swapping parts is only if not a direct replacement engine. But Yes for sure it easier to replace starter and stuff like oil cooler with engine on stand.

But not that much faster by bookable time if at all to swap parts. Additionally, again in the 2UZ as I've not done a 3UR. But if not not a direct replacement. What swapped to one engine must be removed from the another engine. Unless you want added cost of buying new parts. So time is doubled time. You need ~1 to 2 hour just for setting up two engine on stands & hoist.

I've a estimate in hand for a 2007 2UZ-fe blown engine with radiator and miscl. It's ~#12.5K from a Toyota Dealer. I also know working on the 200 series is more time consuming in most job, at least for me. That a 4 cam VVTi is generally pricery engine (0-), than a 2 cam VVti (06-07), or non VVT (98-05).

Replaced/rebuilt engine in a 200 series for $800 to $2K would be a miracle, unless DIY.

Sorry. Once I saw you say cost from a dealer I didn’t bother with your numbers anymore. No one in with experience in cars would price it out to fix with dealer cost. They will charge 3k in Mercedes to fix the sunroof where a regular mechanic did it for coffee. There was just a rock stuck. For the dealer. That means replace sunroof.

 

[rps13sr]

I see claims of amazing prices I'd pay to have some do a non direct swap for me, and I do all my own work.

But too swap a 100 series 2UZ-fe with a non 100 series 2UZ-fe like tundra, well many parts need swapping. First off the battery/starter wire harness is different. This means a starter job, which shops' charge in a range of $400 to $600 alone for labor. Then the oil pan all the way to pick up tube swap is added labor and parts. Best to do T-belt water pump job while out, add for that job. Oil cooler and filter housing, add. Exhaust manifold needs swapping, add. Engine mount, add. Main wire harness, add. A/C drain, disconnect and recharge add. Radiator R&R, add. Fluids, add. List goes on. None of that included pulling or dropping in much less finding, shipping and inspecting the replacement engine.

As for the 200 series swap with a non 200 series I can't say what needs swapping, as I've never done or looked into. But I assumed many difference.

I would stick with used Japanese built 200 series within same year range. This would keep labor and parts cost down. Additionally engine would have tightest tolerance, or so we found in the 2UZ between Japan/USA builds.

@rps13sr I don't see where you said what's wrong with "blown" engine or how it happened. Other than PO issues with oil perhaps!

Did you buy it blown or did it blow while you driving. You mentioned oil what's the deal no oil pressure, no compression, what???

Inquiring minds want to know:
WHO said it's blown and WHY the call?

sorry i missed this post. it was a 2011 lx570 with a blown motor. i tried to buy it. i didnt want to say at that time that i was buying it and decided to say i have it. i didnt want people saying dont bother buying and giving opinions i didnt ask for so i just asked as if i had owned it. it avoids much headache. anyway it was sold for 12k and i missed it by about an hour. ohh 112k miles. big dissappointment not being able to buy it. would have been a great 20-22k 2011 lx570

 

[rps13sr]

Nice, I also enjoyed some good sprints in my Vishnu tuned Evo as well I pushed to 158 on a isolated stretch of interstate heading South from TN one trip. Mostly raced it in the local SCCA races around the state. That car was a blast in the end it was so built up it bucked liked a bronco on the low speed commutes to work so I sold it to buy and build another 40.

im so sad i sold it. it was about 2.1 liter i never a little bit bigger piston would affect lowend drivability that much. i wold the 2003 ev0 for 10k it had tuning issues and i didnt have money to pour into it anymore. got a lease and that was the end of my modded car days. this was 2015 when i sold it now evos are worth so much more. gotta stop doing things i regret