2008-2018 Radiator Failure and Public Service Announcement

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That’s a tough one.. you could maybe do some digging through the parts diagrams and see if the things that attach to it are the same. Fan shroud, foam “packing” materials, trans cooler lines..

Honestly even at $400 it’s worth it IMO. You are talking about fixing the problem and not having to worry about it for 100k+ miles. That’s a tenth of a cent per mile vs the $290 one.

Sure would be nice to know the exact differences.. any chance @Eric Sarjeant has both in stock?
 
Buuuut the 09’ is a touch more....

View attachment 2298966

I can tell you this part fits the 09's and is the new design.

Part Number​
Part Name​
Price​
Quantity​
Total​
16400-50384​
Radiator Assembly​
$296.17​
1​
$296.17​
Subtotal: $296.17​
Estimated Standard Shipping: $30.71​
Discount: -$5.00​
Total: $321.88​
Thank you again for your order.
Conicelli Toyota Parts Center
610-825-7128
 
Part Number: 16400-50384 is the newest and supersedes 1640050380; 1640050381; 1640050382; 1640050383

Also potentially free shipping on orders over $50 from here with code FAMILY:
 
B/C belts, alternator, plugs and water pump have been replaced in last 20k i’m only replacing the radiator, thermostat, upper and lower hose. Sound good? Using OEM. 09’ LX570.
 
B/C belts, alternator, plugs and water pump have been replaced in last 20k i’m only replacing the radiator, thermostat, upper and lower hose. Sound good? Using OEM. 09’ LX570.
Serpentine belt tensioner if it hasn't been done.
 
I’ve had my 2010 for two months and just discovered this thread and went to look.
F140C551-5B62-44F2-8932-B1183D2D2844.jpeg

I’m going to reach out to the dealer I bought from, but at this point is there collateral damage I should be concerned about or is replacing the radiator all that’s needed?
 
I’ve had my 2010 for two months and just discovered this thread and went to look. View attachment 2299784
I’m going to reach out to the dealer I bought from, but at this point is there collateral damage I should be concerned about or is replacing the radiator all that’s needed?
Shouldn't be any collateral damage. You should consider doing, "while I'm in there" preventative maintenance that is mentioned in this thread.
 
I’ve had my 2010 for two months and just discovered this thread and went to look. View attachment 2299784
I’m going to reach out to the dealer I bought from, but at this point is there collateral damage I should be concerned about or is replacing the radiator all that’s needed?
Shouldn't be any collateral damage. You should consider doing, "while I'm in there" preventative maintenance that is mentioned in this thread.
 
.
 
Response from my dealer:

“Sorry running around like crazy. So, that radiator cracking is just random and can happen at anytime like you read. It is just unfortunate timing and I’m sorry it happened. I know that is frustrating.

So to get it replaced is about $1,540 . Obviously we want to help out and do what we can. We will be able to do it at our preowned department for you for $1,052 by providing cheaper labor than the normal rate. So save about $500 on it. The only thing is that we don’t have a loan car for you while we fix it if we go with the cheaper method. It should take about 5-6 hours to complete so if you dropped it off in the morning then we should have it done by the afternoon.

Let me know your thoughts“
 
Last edited:
“Providing cheaper labor”

They are trying to make money on the sale as well as the service needed to get it roadworthy.
 
@Bryanmc - I just bought a new Toyota radiator and I think it was around $300 ($326.98, to be exact).
 
Yeah, I’m going to do it myself. Was hoping they’d offer something more significant.

Time to scrub this thread and put a plan together!
 
If you have the energy, I'd run it up the flagpole at the dealership. I bought my last 100 series from a dealer and the battery died the next week, and the emergency brakes wouldn't pass a state safety inspection. They reimbursed me for the full cost of the battery and the brake parts (I did the work myself). Sometimes a person above the salesperson has a better sense of the potential cost to their reputation from poor word of mouth advertising and get the lifetime value of a good customer and are empowered to make decisions like this. A couple of hundred dollars may be worth it to them to preserve their good name.
 
After I turned down their offer they said they’d cover the cost to have it replaced elsewhere up to $750.

That seems doable, but now I need to find a good local Dallas shop to do it.
 
Checked the reservoir and it’s empty. Not sure how long it’s been that way, fortunately I’ve done almost no driving lately.
I always keep an eye on my gages and never saw any temp issues but is there anything to check that might have been damaged due to overheating? Or have I just been lucky?
 
No worries about causing overheating problems unless you were very very hot climate and pulling a heavy load were pressure and specific gravity of the fluid can make a difference of the boiling point of water. The crack just let the pressure drop to ambient as if the cap was off. I would guess that the fluid level was still above the core and the radiator was still doing its job.

The radiator on my 80 series cracked at around 230k mikes and I just unlocked the cap so no pressure was alowed build up and a any over flow just went into the tank but could not be drawn back in to radiator. I drove the 80 for six more months like that until it was warm enough to wear shorts and then we installed a new one. Sorry about the visual image of my halibut belly white legs. No, I am not kidding, 200,000+ miles is at the low end for 1990's LC radiators. I wouldn't have any problem doing the same with the 200LC.

I do not recommend any one running there equipment with the radiator unlocked a 1/4 turn but still locked in place unless they were familiar with a closed/presurized and an open/non-presurized cooling system. NEVER OPEN A RADIATOR CAP WHEN THE RADIATOR IS HOT!!!!!!
 
Some notes I copied somewhere around here ......

Heater hoses at passenger side rear of engine need removal to get to #8. That means draining half a gallon or so of coolant
so they can be removed without spilling anti-freeze all over. You'd also be well served to replace the heater hose "T's" while you're in there. Lexus sells the two 3-hose assemblies only, so you ask for the plastic T's for a Sequoia or Sienna...same exact T but sold separately
 
Most Ts on even high mile 200s have come out looking brand new. This is one area toyota clearly improved on the 100-series. Personally I wouldn’t open the area up unless needed. And #8 plug can be changed without disconnecting lines, just remove bolts locating the hard line.
 

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