2008-2018 Radiator Failure and Public Service Announcement (5 Viewers)

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I'm replacing my radiator in the morning with a mid grade Rock Auto unit. $155. 09 LC 145k miles. It blew while I was on vacation in Little Rock and I put some radiator repair putty on it and it slowed the leak enough for me to go from Little Rock to Dallas and home to south Mississippi. I probably put about 20 ounces of water in it along the way. And yes I'm going to refill with Toyota coolant after the replacement.
My question is, no one has mentioned topping off the Transmission fluid after the radiator replacement. Not even on the Toyota shop receipts. Is it such a small amount it doesn't matter?


When I replaced my radiator, I stuck a bolt in the hose as soon as I removed the hose, I want to say less than an ounce went on the floor.
 
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2011 LX570 with 95282 Miles, so mine is due soon. you can see the crack line is extended out on both sides. It started just the right sides, it is getting longer on the right side since I got the truck with 79k miles almost 2 yrs ago. I do not think it will hold much longer.
 
When I replaced my radiator, I stuck a bolt in the hose as soon as I removed the hose, I want to say less than an ounce went on the floor.
Thanks for the reply. I'm more concerned with the amount in the old radiator, not what drips out of the lines. But it's done now. I didn't add any transmission fluid. We'll see how it turns out.
 
Thanks for the reply. I'm more concerned with the amount in the old radiator, not what drips out of the lines. But it's done now. I didn't add any transmission fluid. We'll see how it turns out.

That's a good point. For whatever reason I was under the impression the tranny cooler is separate and sat in front of the radiator but there should be a considerable amount of tranny fluid inside the radiator if part of it was used as the cooling medium.

Someone more knowledgeable should chime in, @beno or @bjowett.
 
What is everyone replacing their cracked 08'-11' LC/LX radiators with, oem dealer sold units (Toyota shows 2 different parts numbers for radiator unit, not sure which one I need, 16400-50380 or 16400-50381) or Denso 221-3153 units?
 
The heat exchanger in the lower radiator holds right around 6 oz. I can easily see 8 oz being required to top off the transmission.
Another tip- before mounting the radiator, if you pre-fill the heat exchanger in the lower radiator with (WS) ATF you can avoid the hassle of topping it off at the inconveniently located trans fill plug.
 
2011 LX with 57K miles. Maybe just the first indications of the crack forming, so I applied JB Weld radiator repair as a preventative measure.

Warning: All the warnings here and at Amazon about JB Weld Radiator Repair were true: That stuff heats up and sets FAST. I had less than a minute to get down the base coat, lay in the fabric and then get a top coat on. I was only able to use about 25% of the packet contents, but the patch looks good and I can't believe it won't help extend the life of the radiator to some degree.
 
2011 LX with 57K miles. Maybe just the first indications of the crack forming, so I applied JB Weld radiator repair as a preventative measure.

Warning: All the warnings here and at Amazon about JB Weld Radiator Repair were true: That stuff heats up and sets FAST. I had less than a minute to get down the base coat, lay in the fabric and then get a top coat on. I was only able to use about 25% of the packet contents, but the patch looks good and I can't believe it won't help extend the life of the radiator to some degree.
I doubt it will make much difference from a structural standpoint, the fatigue crack will have introduced weakness through the plastic not just at the surface. I consider the JB Weld as a "get you home" fix, a temporary bandaid to carry you over until your new radiator comes in (I would not count on it as a long term fix).
 
What is everyone replacing their cracked 08'-11' LC/LX radiators with, oem dealer sold units (Toyota shows 2 different parts numbers for radiator unit, not sure which one I need, 16400-50380 or 16400-50381) or Denso 221-3153 units?
16400-50384 is the latest part.
 
There are two coolers, the large oil to air, and the unit in the lower radiator tank.

A bit OT but is there a larger oil-to-air cooler available, or do you think I could add a second one? Not sure if it's the new trailer which is heavier or the new steel winch bumper but my AT temps are running about 5-10F hotter than last year
 
A second oil to air cooler could be added. There is some not insignificant ducting that pulls air from the lower grill to feed the stock cooler. Perhaps that needs to be addressed with the TT Bumper?
 
A second oil to air cooler could be added. There is some not insignificant ducting that pulls air from the lower grill to feed the stock cooler. Perhaps that needs to be addressed with the TT Bumper?

Could be. I’ll get under the truck to take a look this weekend. I wonder if anyone who tows and has an ARB or TJM bumper with a winch see this
 
Well, need to replace radiator after a 96k miles.. After a 2k mile road trip, I had a very faint smell of coolant when walking in front of rig when shutting off. The radiator did not fail in the usual spot everyone else has been reporting, although there is evidence of a very slight stress crack starting to appear in the problem area.. Every one with an older 200 series with higher mileage should not only be concerned with the usual problem area, but also check underneath the glued on foam on radiator where the upper plastic reservoir meets the metal core... pics included.... Btw, I'll be replacing the waterpump, radiator, heater t's and the thermostat...Should be good to go with the 3urfe cooling system problems sorted out since I have already resealed the coolant valley thingie...

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Could be. I’ll get under the truck to take a look this weekend. I wonder if anyone who tows and has an ARB or TJM bumper with a winch see this
ARB has that as an installation step, they cut the ducting to still work with the big air holes they put in their bumpers. My towing was limited with the stock bumper, but it was enough to know temp changes didn't happen with the ARB. At least for me.
 
2009 LX570. 99,450 miles. Took this picture this morning. What do you guys think? Still ok? I can see a faint line at the infamous spot. Water pump was replaced a few thousand miles ago fwiw.

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2009 LX570. 99,450 miles. Took this picture this morning. What do you guys think? Still ok? I can see a faint line at the infamous spot. Water pump was replaced a few thousand miles ago fwiw.

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Ticking time bomb. It may go anytime or it may last another 10k miles. Mine looks exactly like yours when I got my 11 at 79k miles, the line grows double in 18k miles. If you plan to drive long distance, replace it. I did a temporary patch to strengthen it when I made a 2000 miles trip to Chicago 3 weeks ago while waiting for parts to come in. It is still holding at this time, wonder how long it last.

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2009 LX570. 99,450 miles. Took this picture this morning. What do you guys think? Still ok? I can see a faint line at the infamous spot. Water pump was replaced a few thousand miles ago fwiw.

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That’s the most minor hairline crack I’ve seen. If you are just doing short trips, it’s not an emergency, as the initial leak won’t disable you (though it can be messy).

On the other hand...it’s gonna blow before too long.

If you plan any significant drives, I’d go ahead and swap it out before it hits ya.
 
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