2008-2018 Radiator Failure and Public Service Announcement (10 Viewers)

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Everybody makes the radiator to be easy but it wasn't for me. Main reason is the power steering cooler blocks the bottom bolt for the radiator on the passenger side. Also the covers near the headlight need to be removed and with 130k the plastic philips screws don't want to come out (need to order new screws). Also all the plastic rivets tend to be destroyed which now needs to be replaced for me. Another thing i would recommend which i didn't do would be to replace the radiator hoses. Why go through 2hrs (4hrs for me as I was solo and in the dark) of back breaking work just to have the old hoses still in the truck. The extra piece of mind would of been nice (which is now on my list of things to do).
 
@NetJunky its' too late to help if you've already done the work, but for anyone else looking to make this repair:

If you leave the passenger side mounting bracket in the truck and just take it off the radiator, you can re-use it and you don't have to mess with the headlights/trim..etc. Makes the job much easier.
 
I thought about that. Was thinking of reusing both brackets since I replaced my radiator with a Koyo. Would of saved me an hour of work.

The Koyo mounting brackets require you to hold the 15mm nuts from spinning in the rubber vs the factory mounting brackets.
 
It's time to work on a solution... I have completely disassembled a new OEM stock Trad radiator. The core is impressively large and well constructed two row unit. Pictured is the cracking culprit as viewed from the inside of the upper header tank. The part number for the upper tank has never changed, even on the new 2016.... and IMO it's no coincidence that the space providing a place to affix or print a part number on the unit has created the failure point.

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It's time to work on a solution... I have completely disassembled a new OEM stock Trad radiator. The core is impressively large and well constructed two row unit. Pictured is the cracking culprit as viewed from the inside of the upper header tank. The part number for the upper tank has never changed, even on the new 2016.... and IMO it's no coincidence that the space providing a place to affix or print a part number on the unit has created the failure point.

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You always amaze me, Brian. You just keep plugging away at issues, and it's impressive/appreciated. I can only wish I had an ounce of your insight & skill. I'll be following this, as I'm sure my 2008 will be arriving at this issue in due time... (if I ever get out of this darn hospital & my leg works!).

Markuson
 
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Would a generous slathering of some epoxy-like material prior to the issue (on the outside) stiffen the area and distribute the stresses to avoid the issue? Could even add reinforcement to the epoxy in the form of aluminum, CF or whatever.
 
Thanks, Markuson. To know that every URJ200 could potentially have this issue has pushed it up front... I really dislike replacing a part with the same flawed part... Even it if it will last years. What happened to your leg?

I thought about epoxies and a strap/brace to wrap over and connect to the header tank.... But I'm not entirely convinced it will solve the issue and support the area in way that will benefit it. The flaw is still there.

More ideas to suss out... Off to play with the wife, kids, and pups.
 
Thanks, Markuson. To know that every URJ200 could potentially have this issue has pushed it up front... I really dislike replacing a part with the same flawed part... Even it if it will last years. What happened to your leg?

I thought about epoxies and a strap/brace to wrap over and connect to the header tank.... But I'm not entirely convinced it will solve the issue and support the area in way that will benefit it. The flaw is still there.

More ideas to suss out... Off to play with the wife, kids, and pups.

It's kind of amazing that their engineers would allow a part stamp to intrude into key structural material(!).

You asked what happened to my leg:

"Short" version of a complicated story...
I was on the back of a chase vehicle on an aircraft runway, photographing the deployment of an emergency parachute device launching from a vehicle in front of me. The parachute launches like a rocket & is used on ultralight & light sport aircraft for total plane failure as a last-resort parachuting of entire craft.

Due to my driver hitting the accelerator like a drag race for some unknown reason...somewhere around 40-45MPH, I fell backward onto rough blacktop with my right foot violently hitting the fast-passing ground first & pulling my leg/knee/foot down, back and outward.

So...my right foot was hyperextended downward...my knee was bent sideways--giving me a *tibial plateau fracture.* This fracture has been given a metal plate with 8 or 9 screws extending through my tibia. Further, we believe my upper right leg was violently extended backward behind me. Right now, my left quadriceps muscle is unresponsive, and my right hamstring is also non-responsive. So...I cannot pull my leg inward under its own power, and I cannot begin a leg-curl under its under own power.
This last part is what is most concerning. I need to have working legs...

Anyway...thank you for thinking of our "parts," and for asking about my "parts" (leg) too...
 
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Really sorry to hear about your leg. I would be devistated if that happened to me, mostly because I'm outdoorsman and cyclist. Get well soon and your leg strong enough to run and strangle the guy who jetted off so fast to cause this severe injury.
 
Really sorry to hear about your leg. I would be devistated if that happened to me, mostly because I'm outdoorsman and cyclist. Get well soon and your leg strong enough to run and strangle the guy who jetted off so fast to cause this severe injury.

Thanks Angelo, & me too...re the outdoorsman stuff. I'm a VERY active mountain biker...hiker...and love everything about the outdoors. We're considering moving to Colorado for that reason alone. Losing full use of my leg would be truly devastating.
 
Popped the hood to check on something and there it was- seeping line from the part number spot downward with gravity on top of the radiator.

08 with 94k miles. Heading to Remote Offroad area in 10 days. I guess I will do the hoses also? Up next is the starter within the next 20k miles.

Would it save any time to do starter while doing radiator and hoses?

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The two are pretty separate. you pretty much tackle the starter from below and the side. if you are heading out to no man's land build yourself a cheater for the starter. loong screwdriver and sacrificial jumper cable you can remove the heat shield and bypass the solenoid to get the truck started
 
On Toyota parts deal it list that part number- Upper part of Radiator for $130. On Rock Auto there are a number of options including a "Denso". Has anyone tried these? I wonder if the Denso would be better given the issues know. See pic for other options.

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A buddy used the spectra, and the side pieces didn't line up exactly right .
 
Dealer won't replace just the upper plastic part? Quoting me the entire radiator at $399 and out the door $871.

I hate to say- but the 200 is not as reliable (part failure based) as the 100. Still love her, but with Starter, Water Pump, and Radiator known failures- it makes the T-Hose connector on the 100s look like a bargain.
 
Dealer won't replace just the upper plastic part? Quoting me the entire radiator at $399 and out the door $871.

I hate to say- but the 200 is not as reliable (part failure based) as the 100. Still love her, but with Starter, Water Pump, and Radiator known failures- it makes the T-Hose connector on the 100s look like a bargain.

Those three parts all had to be replaced on my 100... Right around the same time, too.
 
Those three parts all had to be replaced on my 100... Right around the same time, too.

That's good to know. I didn't experience that I guess...
 
I believe it to be more of an age thing and usage thing then high mileage. Seems like most 08 are getting it now.
 

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