2006 with 171,000 mileage (1 Viewer)

Location

United States

Hi,

Please help!
My previous post didn’t get any response so here I am again hoping someone would give me an advice because I don’t know if the dealer is asking way too much or it’s just a right price. The dealer is asking $25,995 and I’m about to check this out on Wednesday tomorrow in person and I have zero clue what to check.
We might fall in love and just end up sign the paper together with wife.

 

[wormwood]

I will echo the fact that all offroad vehicles are so overpriced right now... So expect to pay more than usual if you really want one. Unless you wait and keep looking for a "deal"... Also, expect to cough up some $$$ right away on service. 100% of the LCs/LX/GX we shopped around for needed some sort of service done or things fixed, regardless of how clean they were. I mean, what can you expect from a 10'sh yr old vehicle. Good news is, everyone's already worked out all the kinks and there's a ton of troubleshooting support out there. Most of which is diy.

So, just for some perspective. I just picked up an '06 LX470 with ~230 miles with loads of service records for $20k in L.A. Super clean inside and out. Some might say it's expensive some say I got a fair deal. Meh... we're comfortable and happy with our purchase. We just couldn't touch a LC with under 170k miles for under $25 that was in good condition.

Basically I would try to make sure you perform a thorough inspection to get an idea of what the baseline service might cost you.

 

[digmyrig]

Again thank you for all the input guys I really appreciated it.
On a second thought, I think it’s a bad idea bringing the wife since she’s too focus on the 200 series because it’s newer and looks nice but poor me I might have to spend a little more. Anyway, I’ll try to tell her it looks more like a Highlander may be then she might change her mind.
Again thank you guys hopefully we can get a decent LC soon…

 

[shtbrwn86]

Where are you in Seattle? Is that dealer Eastlake Auto Brokers? It looks like it from the the pictures. I would avoid them. In fact, I would avoid buying from any dealer unless maybe it's a Toyota/Lexus dealer and all the service records were from the selling dealer (maybe a one-owner trade-in or something).

Agree that any Toyota/Lexus 4WD is going to be expensive and I don't envy you looking for one of these right now. In addition to dealers there are tons of guys out there trying to flip these things. Don't buy from them!!! All they did was find one for "cheap" that had the timing belt done and they turn around and sell it for thousands more when they don't really know $hit about the rig.

 

[QsLC75]

Here are my 2 cents from a guy who searched for 6 months to buy his 100 series, had 2 respected MUD mechanics searching across the country for me, and flew to Texas with a round trip ticket to purchase in person:

1. 100 Series Newbie Guide - Slee Off Road - https://sleeoffroad.com/tech-zone/100-series-newbie-guide/
2. Think hard about what you are going to use it for.
   1. Reread the 100 series and the 200 series newbie guides on mud.
   2. Parts will become harder to find for the 100 series as it continues to age. Both will do what you mentioned of taking you to fishing spot, which one are you going to be more comfortable daily driving in stock form.
   3. Radio/Smartphone: which system do you want to use or modify to work with your smartphone? It may seem a minor item, but in today's smartphone world can be extremely irritating
3. Take the vehicle to be inspected by a Toyota or Lexus Dealer before you start negotiating. It is worth the $100-200 to learn what the Toyota mechanics can tell you.
   1. Check the undercarriage for recent undercoat spray (paint, fluid film, etc). I mention this because none of the advertisements you posted have pictures of the frame, differentials, axles, etc. If you see anything that looks shiny new or patchy, run. They have covered up the rust.
4. Exercise extreme caution & research with Independent small dealers, most of them are flipping a vehicle they purchased from an auction. You can learn the same amount of information they know from a Vin CARFAX search.
5. Plan to spend $5K in the first few months on baselining and minor repairs. Exact cost will depend on what you are able to do yourself versus paying a mechanic to do.
   1. Baseline/replace all the fluids (Fluids don't last forever and you are buying an older vehicle). Differentials, transmission, etc fluids will need to be replaced unless you can learn that it was recently replaced by seeing a receipt.
   2. Minor repairs for example could include your front CV Axles (new oem are running over $300/per side plus installation) or your steering rack could wear out in the first few months.

Good luck!

 

[FxFormat]

Camping/fishing dirt roads can all be done in a Highlander or rav4. Is there a specific reason you want to pay this much money for a used over priced vehicle? Maintenance will also kill you down the road, I’d get a 2-3 year old highlander and call it a day. Much better gas mileage, smoother, quieter. Hell if I wouldn’t get teased for driving a soccer mom vehicle I’d get a highlander too, they’re awesome

 

[Africaster]

You may want to consider getting a Carfax report based on VIN ($40) … whilst not 100% complete, would give you peace of mind iro any accidents or illogical mileage readings taken during inspections. Twice saved me from buying auction house specials that had been wrecked and put back together for resale and after the sellers looking me in the eye and guaranteeing accident free trucks … good luck

 

[digmyrig]

Where are you in Seattle? Is that dealer Eastlake Auto Brokers? It looks like it from the the pictures. I would avoid them. In fact, I would avoid buying from any dealer unless maybe it's a Toyota/Lexus dealer and all the service records were from the selling dealer (maybe a one-owner trade-in or something).

Agree that any Toyota/Lexus 4WD is going to be expensive and I don't envy you looking for one of these right now. In addition to dealers there are tons of guys out there trying to flip these things. Don't buy from them!!! All they did was find one for "cheap" that had the timing belt done and they turn around and sell it for thousands more when they don't really know $hit about the rig.

I have waited for someone like you to say something as I have never buy anything from a dealer. I’m located in Shoreline, I normally purchased a car from private seller or straight from Toyota dealer.
Im sure some of these dealer are honest but some are brutally evil that’s I’m here to gather some great info. How about the JDM dealer any of those are okay to buy?

 

[digmyrig]

You may want to consider getting a Carfax report based on VIN ($40) … whilst not 100% complete, would give you peace of mind iro any accidents or illogical mileage readings taken during inspections. Twice saved me from buying auction house specials that had been wrecked and put back together for resale and after the sellers looking me in the eye and guaranteeing accident free trucks … good luck

According to carfax that car is clean.

 

[2001LC]

Seems prices are actually very reasonable for the market. They can get more, if condition is good!
I'd:

1. Check for accidents & rust first. None. keep in short list.
2. Second I do not like fender flares, as the eat into body paint. Flared go to bottom of list.
3. Third favorite color to top of list.
4. AHC is great, but non AHC does carry a premium price in used market. But AHC can also be removed, for a built if one wants. AHC is more expensive to maintain, but I lovem with.

Now with short list:

1. I'd look at history. Good oil, fluids & filter change history is number 1.
2. If any work other than normal PM (Toyota & Lexus publish the PM schedule), I'd drill down into what and why. Shying away from certain services work. Coolant issue & intake removal take a hit to rating and need closer look.
3. Now after I've done hours of reaching vehicle history, to get very good idea target to look for beyond normal PPI. Which all above is my remote PPI.
4. I'd now put down a deposit and move to hands on inspection. Which is 2 to 3 hours more. If any anomalies found in remote inspection, I'd dig deep hands on. i.e may include compression test, which is not common in PPI.

Target with deposit down

1. Hands on PPI. Pay a pro that specializes in 100 series, for a PPI. Just general inspector will not find much. I can assure you at 170K 99 out of 100, I'd find a lot. But if body, paint, rust free and good interior. Not much would keep me from buying. I'd just fix! But for the non wrencher, budget to restore needs deeper consideration. All used vehicle need something. That is where prices hagalling come in.

 

[digmyrig]

Camping/fishing dirt roads can all be done in a Highlander or rav4. Is there a specific reason you want to pay this much money for a used over priced vehicle? Maintenance will also kill you down the road, I’d get a 2-3 year old highlander and call it a day. Much better gas mileage, smoother, quieter. Hell if I wouldn’t get teased for driving a soccer mom vehicle I’d get a highlander too, they’re awesome

Land Cruiser is big, rugged and most of all it’s been on my list for a long time.

 

[digmyrig]

Seems prices are actually very reasonable for the market. They can get more, if condition is good!
I'd:

1. Check for accidents & rust first. None. keep in short list.
2. Second I do not like fender flares, as the eat into body paint. Flared go to bottom of list.
3. Third favorite color to top of list.
4. AHC is great, but non AHC does carry a premium price in used market. But AHC can also be removed, for a built if one wants. AHC is more expensive to maintain, but I lovem with.

Now with short list:

1. I'd look at history. Good oil, fluids & filter change history is number 1.
2. If any work other than normal PM (Toyota & Lexus publish the PM schedule), I'd drill down into what and why. Shying away from certain services work. Coolant issue & intake removal take a hit to rating and need closer look.
3. Now after I've done hours of reaching vehicle history, to get very good idea target to look for beyond normal PPI. Which all above is my remote PPI.
4. I'd now put down a deposit and move to hands on inspection. Which is 2 to 3 hours more. If any anomalies found in remote inspection, I'd dig deep hands on. i.e may include compression test, which is not common in PPI.

Target with deposit down

1. Hands on PPI. Pay a pro that specializes in 100 series, for a PPI. Just general inspector will not find much. I can assure you at 170K 99 out of 100, I'd find a lot. But if body, paint, rust free and good interior. Not much would keep me from buying. I'd just fix! But for the non wrencher, budget to restore needs deeper consideration. All used vehicle need something. That is where prices hagalling come in.

I’m sorry but what is PPI is it a mechanic? Your opinion is much less headache I guess different individual have a different approach when it comes to buying a LC. I know some basic mechanic I could change EGR, running ECU, transmission or engine swap but those are from AE86, Mazda FD and Supra nothing like SUV let alone a LC.

 

[QsLC75]

PPI=Private party inspection

 

[2001LC]

PPI= Pre Purchase Inspection.

 

[wormwood]

Land Cruiser is big, rugged and most of all it’s been on my list for a long time.

Exactly the reason why we got ours. Plus, it'll make a great off road toy for me later on...

 

[kwon-offroad]

PPI=Private party inspection

 

[sockeyesalmon]

Where are you in Seattle? Is that dealer Eastlake Auto Brokers? It looks like it from the the pictures. I would avoid them. In fact, I would avoid buying from any dealer unless maybe it's a Toyota/Lexus dealer and all the service records were from the selling dealer (maybe a one-owner trade-in or something).

Agree that any Toyota/Lexus 4WD is going to be expensive and I don't envy you looking for one of these right now. In addition to dealers there are tons of guys out there trying to flip these things. Don't buy from them!!! All they did was find one for "cheap" that had the timing belt done and they turn around and sell it for thousands more when they don't really know $hit about the rig.

x2

 

[LCMoneyPit]

x2

I've looked at and driven a few Land Cruisers at Eastlake Auto Brokers over the years. I was not impressed and would never buy from them.

 

[LCMoneyPit]

I would also suggest you talk to @torfab (Torfab) in Everett about doing a PPI for you. Talk to Tor Slinning or Nick Casten - both have been great in working with me on mods in the past.

 

[Txagg007]

If you don't do your own mechanic work, I would suggest you pay a little more and buy a clean 200 series. Only way I would get a hundy is if I wrenched my own, and found a high mile baselined one for cheap.

 

[digmyrig]

I would also suggest you talk to @torfab (Torfab) in Everett about doing a PPI for you. Talk to Tor Slinning or Nick Casten - both have been great in working with me on mods in the past.

Thank you for that info are they here on forums too how can I reach out