2006 UZJ100 Build thread
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- #22
Spoiler delete:
I really love the rear spoiler. This 100 doesn’t see much dust but love the look. I could not open the hatch more than a few inches with our surfboards on top. It was a huge PITA on our trip to not be able to open the hatch fully. I could have strapped the boards more forward, so they hang over the windshield, but I’d prefer to not have that wind force on them for extended periods.
The spoiler has the brake light integrated. I was able to replace the brake light with an OEM one after removing the spoiler and hatch garnish.
Service manual instructions:
Parts:
It’s nice that this is plug and play modification with factory parts, so it is reversible. I don’t like the look, but I can open the hatch now with surfboards overhanging. I know I’ll be reinstalling the spoiler someday when this isn’t our primary trip/recreation vehicle.
I really love the rear spoiler. This 100 doesn’t see much dust but love the look. I could not open the hatch more than a few inches with our surfboards on top. It was a huge PITA on our trip to not be able to open the hatch fully. I could have strapped the boards more forward, so they hang over the windshield, but I’d prefer to not have that wind force on them for extended periods.
The spoiler has the brake light integrated. I was able to replace the brake light with an OEM one after removing the spoiler and hatch garnish.
Service manual instructions:
Parts:
- 5/8’’ diameter hole plug
- M6 bolts, rubber washers and a tiny bead of silicone
- Toyota Taillight (P/N: 81570-60062)
It’s nice that this is plug and play modification with factory parts, so it is reversible. I don’t like the look, but I can open the hatch now with surfboards overhanging. I know I’ll be reinstalling the spoiler someday when this isn’t our primary trip/recreation vehicle.
- Thread starter
- #23
Headlights:
I replaced the headlights with new OEM ones. They look amazing and I’m very happy with them. New headlight housings really improve the look of the vehicle in my opinion.
Parts:
3M film
Left housing P/N: 81170-60B11
Right housing P/N: 81130-60B21
Left fog light P/N: 81221-60042
Right fog light P/N: 81211-60122
Lightbulbs:
Low beam: 9006
High beam: 9005
Turn signal: 1157A
Fog light: 9006
Before installing them, I wrapped the lenses with 3M film to help protect them. Installation was straightforward. After I installed them, I found this YouTube video and its step-by-step:
Photos of new lights:
I replaced the headlights with new OEM ones. They look amazing and I’m very happy with them. New headlight housings really improve the look of the vehicle in my opinion.
Parts:
3M film
Left housing P/N: 81170-60B11
Right housing P/N: 81130-60B21
Left fog light P/N: 81221-60042
Right fog light P/N: 81211-60122
Lightbulbs:
Low beam: 9006
High beam: 9005
Turn signal: 1157A
Fog light: 9006
Before installing them, I wrapped the lenses with 3M film to help protect them. Installation was straightforward. After I installed them, I found this YouTube video and its step-by-step:
Photos of new lights:
- Thread starter
- #25
Based on my 80 ownership, I wanted to get new headlights before they become unobtainium. Very happy I ordered some while one of the toyota parts suppliers mentioned in this forum were having a sale
The fog bulbs are Hella H71070602 Optilux XY: Amazon.com - https://www.amazon.com/Optilux-HELLA-H71070602-Yellow-Halogen/dp/B002E2UK8O
I prefer the yellow lights for fog lights. IMO they perform better in snow, rain and fog (less reflection of the light). Another benefit is grabbing the attention distracted drivers with different color lights.
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- Thread starter
- #26
Next steps:
I believe the truck is nearly in a state where it is ready for both adventure and daily duties. My daily driver mileage is ~5000 miles/year, so I’d like to sell the current daily and make the 100 the daily. Since I don’t drive the daily much, this will allow me to consolidate vehicles (space, cost, responsibility, etc.), and help support my other Toyota project vehicles. There are a few items I’d like to address on the 100 before selling the daily.
RUST: There is rust on the undercarriage and the body cavities behind the rear bumper
I have seen far worse examples but addressing the rust and preserving the vehicle is worthwhile to me. I considered replacing this 100 with a rust-free example, but “better the devil you know” since I know this 100’s history 
. All 100s seem to be projects in one way or another. I wouldn’t mind doing the rust rehab myself but that isn’t a viable option at the moment, and I don’t want to wait much longer. Still looking for a shop I trust but the plan would be to address the undercarriage and body rust all at once, then coat with WoolWax to protect it from salt.
AHC: The only AHC maintenance completed was when the passenger line leaked and was replaced at ~150k. Dealerships told me that “there is no service plan for the AHC.” I really like the AHC and have been researching the system’s maintenance. Seems that flushing the fluid and replacing the globes is how to best maintain these at the current 200k mile marker. I am considering replacing the shocks and rear springs too but am not sure if that is worthwhile. I would really like to keep the AHC but I do see the reliability benefit by going to the standard “static” suspension set up. Open to opinions on this if anybody has experience.
Transmission fluid: The transmission was flushed at ~100k miles. At nearly 200k miles (most of the last 100k were highway), I am torn to start doing the drain and fill method during oil changes or another transmission flush. Seems like there are many different thoughts on the best method. Any strong opinions on which is best?
Skid plate: I am missing the middle skid plate but replaced (and raptor lined) both the gas tank and front skid plates. My initial thought was to replace the skid plates with an aftermarket aluminum set to keep them from rusting while also giving the undercarriage more protection. However, everyone I talk to who went aluminum encouraged me to go steel instead. Steel is cheaper, offers stronger protection and is easier to repair. While I can’t see myself rock crawling this 100 anytime soon, (although I always loved the idea of SASing a USDM 100 series), steel may be a better selection for those reasons. I have also considered just replacing the middle plate with a new (used rust free) OEM middle if I can find one. Spending ~$2k for aftermarket skid plates seems silly if I am not really off-roading it, and makes an OEM replacement appealing (at the right price).
With the above items addressed, I believe the 100 will be a problem free daily for at least a few years. I love this vehicle in its “stock” form but after our OBX trip there are a few “wants” that would increase our appreciation for the 100.
Larger gas tank: Would love to have the extra range for exploring (and cannonballing to the trailhead). I am not interested in carrying extra gas cans or moving the spare tire. This means the best solution is a larger main gas tank.
The only “bolt on” option available for the UZJ100 in the US currently is the Long Range America replacement ~40Gal (1.6x capacity) tank but it is only for the 1998-2004 UZJ100s. A fellow Mudder installed it on their 2007 UZJ100 and documented in a thread (https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/lra-40g-main-tank-05-install.1337486/page-6Reading this thread) that I have been following. Their install required some work around and modification of the new tank. Additionally, I have heard disappointing things about the components (notably the hoses) supplied from fellow Yota enthusiasts. Currently, this tank seems like more hassle than it's worth to me, but a larger main gas tank is something I am very interested pursuing.
Dual battery: The ARB fridge does drain the battery and stops running once it sits for more than a few days. Never to the point of needing a battery charge or jump but having the extra electrical power would be nice. Considering the dual battery system over a solar charger for cosmetic purposes. I do not want a solar panel mounted on the hood or taking up valuable roof space. Unfortunately, there is no aux battery tray offered on the aftermarket for those of us who have retained our AHC. This means all of us with AHC fabricate aux battery trays then relocated the PS reservoir and some electronic modules to mount the aux battery between the airbox and AHC. That would be my plan, coupled with an off the shelf battery management system.
The goal of all this work is has been to get the 100 in a state where it is not a project vehicle for me and make room for my other project Toyotas. Very much looking forward to having this vehicle dialed and I feel very close to that point! Cheers! 
I believe the truck is nearly in a state where it is ready for both adventure and daily duties. My daily driver mileage is ~5000 miles/year, so I’d like to sell the current daily and make the 100 the daily. Since I don’t drive the daily much, this will allow me to consolidate vehicles (space, cost, responsibility, etc.), and help support my other Toyota project vehicles. There are a few items I’d like to address on the 100 before selling the daily.
RUST: There is rust on the undercarriage and the body cavities behind the rear bumper
I have seen far worse examples but addressing the rust and preserving the vehicle is worthwhile to me. I considered replacing this 100 with a rust-free example, but “better the devil you know” since I know this 100’s history . All 100s seem to be projects in one way or another. I wouldn’t mind doing the rust rehab myself but that isn’t a viable option at the moment, and I don’t want to wait much longer. Still looking for a shop I trust but the plan would be to address the undercarriage and body rust all at once, then coat with WoolWax to protect it from salt.AHC: The only AHC maintenance completed was when the passenger line leaked and was replaced at ~150k. Dealerships told me that “there is no service plan for the AHC.” I really like the AHC and have been researching the system’s maintenance. Seems that flushing the fluid and replacing the globes is how to best maintain these at the current 200k mile marker. I am considering replacing the shocks and rear springs too but am not sure if that is worthwhile. I would really like to keep the AHC but I do see the reliability benefit by going to the standard “static” suspension set up. Open to opinions on this if anybody has experience.
Transmission fluid: The transmission was flushed at ~100k miles. At nearly 200k miles (most of the last 100k were highway), I am torn to start doing the drain and fill method during oil changes or another transmission flush. Seems like there are many different thoughts on the best method. Any strong opinions on which is best?
Skid plate: I am missing the middle skid plate but replaced (and raptor lined) both the gas tank and front skid plates. My initial thought was to replace the skid plates with an aftermarket aluminum set to keep them from rusting while also giving the undercarriage more protection. However, everyone I talk to who went aluminum encouraged me to go steel instead. Steel is cheaper, offers stronger protection and is easier to repair. While I can’t see myself rock crawling this 100 anytime soon, (although I always loved the idea of SASing a USDM 100 series), steel may be a better selection for those reasons. I have also considered just replacing the middle plate with a new (used rust free) OEM middle if I can find one. Spending ~$2k for aftermarket skid plates seems silly if I am not really off-roading it, and makes an OEM replacement appealing (at the right price
).With the above items addressed, I believe the 100 will be a problem free daily for at least a few years. I love this vehicle in its “stock” form but after our OBX trip there are a few “wants” that would increase our appreciation for the 100.
Larger gas tank: Would love to have the extra range for exploring (and cannonballing to the trailhead). I am not interested in carrying extra gas cans or moving the spare tire. This means the best solution is a larger main gas tank.
The only “bolt on” option available for the UZJ100 in the US currently is the Long Range America replacement ~40Gal (1.6x capacity) tank but it is only for the 1998-2004 UZJ100s. A fellow Mudder installed it on their 2007 UZJ100 and documented in a thread (https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/lra-40g-main-tank-05-install.1337486/page-6Reading this thread) that I have been following. Their install required some work around and modification of the new tank. Additionally, I have heard disappointing things about the components (notably the hoses) supplied from fellow Yota enthusiasts. Currently, this tank seems like more hassle than it's worth to me, but a larger main gas tank is something I am very interested pursuing.
Dual battery: The ARB fridge does drain the battery and stops running once it sits for more than a few days. Never to the point of needing a battery charge or jump but having the extra electrical power would be nice. Considering the dual battery system over a solar charger for cosmetic purposes. I do not want a solar panel mounted on the hood or taking up valuable roof space. Unfortunately, there is no aux battery tray offered on the aftermarket for those of us who have retained our AHC. This means all of us with AHC fabricate aux battery trays then relocated the PS reservoir and some electronic modules to mount the aux battery between the airbox and AHC. That would be my plan, coupled with an off the shelf battery management system.
The goal of all this work is has been to get the 100 in a state where it is not a project vehicle for me and make room for my other project Toyotas.
Very much looking forward to having this vehicle dialed and I feel very close to that point! Cheers! 
Just wanted to say this is a great build thread! Good to know about the headlights too. Also wild to see this is one of the rare late model Land Cruisers that has the AHC. Very cool.
AHC: I along with many others are a huge fan as long as you aren't planning on doing any really intense off-roading. And yes, flush the fluid and get new globes from Japan (Impex or MOTORS HEAD JAPAN | Export Japanese Auto, Diesel, Motorcycle Parts - https://www.parts-sale.jp/). I'm assuming your grads are low given the mileage. It does seem like given your location with rust the metal lines might be more of an issue that others in the sunbelt don't have. But you seem to be taking the rust situation seriously so you might be fine here.
Tans Fluid: Nothing wrong with doing the ~4 quarts at each oil change where you just drain from the oil drain. The fluid transfer method was also really easy for me with my 4AT. Very easy to get to the hose that feeds into the cooler. Just let it pump out a quart, turn the engine off, and then put in a quart and repeat for 10-15 quarts. Just make sure you get the correct Mobil 1 Syn ATF fluid.
Heater Ts: I discovered those metal versions after replacing mine with fresh OEM plastic. The brass ones didn't seem like a good idea given the diameters seemed off. But those you posted seemed to match exactly. Curious how yours work for you. Also, you will probably hear this from others, but the worm clamps don't seem to be recommended around here. The OEM Toyota clamps seem to be the way to go. I'm guessing you will be fine, but just wanted to make a friendly call out as you otherwise seem to be using OEM parts everywhere else.
AHC: I along with many others are a huge fan as long as you aren't planning on doing any really intense off-roading. And yes, flush the fluid and get new globes from Japan (Impex or MOTORS HEAD JAPAN | Export Japanese Auto, Diesel, Motorcycle Parts - https://www.parts-sale.jp/). I'm assuming your grads are low given the mileage. It does seem like given your location with rust the metal lines might be more of an issue that others in the sunbelt don't have. But you seem to be taking the rust situation seriously so you might be fine here.
Tans Fluid: Nothing wrong with doing the ~4 quarts at each oil change where you just drain from the oil drain. The fluid transfer method was also really easy for me with my 4AT. Very easy to get to the hose that feeds into the cooler. Just let it pump out a quart, turn the engine off, and then put in a quart and repeat for 10-15 quarts. Just make sure you get the correct Mobil 1 Syn ATF fluid.
Heater Ts: I discovered those metal versions after replacing mine with fresh OEM plastic. The brass ones didn't seem like a good idea given the diameters seemed off. But those you posted seemed to match exactly. Curious how yours work for you. Also, you will probably hear this from others, but the worm clamps don't seem to be recommended around here. The OEM Toyota clamps seem to be the way to go. I'm guessing you will be fine, but just wanted to make a friendly call out as you otherwise seem to be using OEM parts everywhere else.
Great build !
- Thread starter
- #29
Thank you!
I have not seen many similarly spec'd 100s while browsing FBMP and certainly not many in the wild of my part of the world.I have read about some owners replacing it and regretting it. Would be curious to drive astock non-AHC example and compare to the AHC. For me the benefit of deleting AHC is increasing reliability. I believe this can be done without deleting the AHC. Rust is more of a concern when maintaining this AHC system. I have also considered replacing the shocks, lines, control arms too but maybe that is not worthwhile.
I am leaning towards the drain and fill method during each oil change. A flush would be nice as it more of a standalone "one-and-done" service, this means less to do during my oil changes. Ultimately I'd like to do whatever is best for the vehicle and there is no "right" choice here it seems
Good to know, appreciate the heads ups. I bet over tightening those kind of clamps can become a problem overtime. That has been what i have seen/experienced. I believe in using the torque spec of "just past snug" for that reason
if the FSM doesn't have one. Replacing the headers Ts was definitely a good thing to do before our trip since one broke when I took it apart. Unfortunately the OEM clamps and hoses did not arrive on time. I did not like the brass Ts for the same reason! When it comes to parts (and labor) on my LCs, I'm admittedly particular 
given my experience with LCs and other Yotas using Mr.T parts. No complaints with my new off-brand Ts, they look identical to OEM (i now the OEMs in my spare bin).
Great build from another northeaster 
- Thread starter
- #32
14Aug25: 205.3k miles
It's been a while, but I wanted to share an update. My ambitious projects for the 100 have been sidelined, but that hasn't stopped us from enjoying the vehicle.
It made a trip to Quebec City in January, where it crossed the 200,000-mile mark. We've used it for winter surfing, several ski trips, and it even towed a trailer during a move, including all the subsequent trips to the brush dump. We hit the Outer Banks in May and Maryland in June, along with taking various weekend trips around the Northeast. Since June, it's even become my daily driver as we've been shuffling vehicles. Some pics:
A Coastal cruise to 200k miles!
Spring skiing in VT:
100 parked next to its elder after an oil change day:
It's been a while, but I wanted to share an update. My ambitious projects for the 100 have been sidelined, but that hasn't stopped us from enjoying the vehicle.
It made a trip to Quebec City in January, where it crossed the 200,000-mile mark. We've used it for winter surfing, several ski trips, and it even towed a trailer during a move, including all the subsequent trips to the brush dump. We hit the Outer Banks in May and Maryland in June, along with taking various weekend trips around the Northeast. Since June, it's even become my daily driver as we've been shuffling vehicles. Some pics:
A Coastal cruise to 200k miles!
100 parked next to its elder after an oil change day:
- Thread starter
- #33
OBX trip - May 2025
We got the vehicle buried in the sand as we were leaving the beach, just within sight of the entrance as the sun was setting. I was so grateful for the traction boards as we watched the seawater approach the vehicle. My co-pilot said diving home, 'Maybe adding a winch would be a good idea.’
We got the vehicle buried in the sand as we were leaving the beach, just within sight of the entrance as the sun was setting. I was so grateful for the traction boards as we watched the seawater approach the vehicle. My co-pilot said diving home, 'Maybe adding a winch would be a good idea.’
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- Thread starter
- #34
This year, we've added approximately 8,000 miles to the vehicle, almost entirely for recreational outings. It has had two oil changes, its first tire rotation with the all-terrain tires, and has only required a few minor repairs during this time:
Heater Tees:
As mentioned in a previous post, the worm clamps were a bit too tight and showed signs of leaking fluid, indicated by pink discoloration. I noticed this in February and changed the tees and hoses again, this time using OEM hoses and clamps with brass tees. I only noticed this issue because I perform a visual inspection under the hood every time I refuel. It didn't seem to lose much coolant when I re-bled the system. Engine temperatures remained consistent at 189-191°F, which was the same as before I replaced the parts in the winter.
Before:
After:
Oxygen sensors:
Back in July, I had the 'CEL,' 'VSC TRAC,' and 'VSC OFF' dash lights appear. The ScanGauge and a quick internet search pointed to an oxygen sensor. The engine had also been smelling a little fuel rich on startup just the weeks leading. I had replaced one of the sensors a few years ago, but not the other three. Luckily, my past self-had the foresight to order a full set of four Denso oxygen sensors. I swapped out the remaining three, reset the lights, and was good to go.
Heater Tees:
As mentioned in a previous post, the worm clamps were a bit too tight and showed signs of leaking fluid, indicated by pink discoloration. I noticed this in February and changed the tees and hoses again, this time using OEM hoses and clamps with brass tees. I only noticed this issue because I perform a visual inspection under the hood every time I refuel. It didn't seem to lose much coolant when I re-bled the system. Engine temperatures remained consistent at 189-191°F, which was the same as before I replaced the parts in the winter.
Before:
After:
Oxygen sensors:
Back in July, I had the 'CEL,' 'VSC TRAC,' and 'VSC OFF' dash lights appear. The ScanGauge and a quick internet search pointed to an oxygen sensor. The engine had also been smelling a little fuel rich on startup just the weeks leading. I had replaced one of the sensors a few years ago, but not the other three. Luckily, my past self-had the foresight to order a full set of four Denso oxygen sensors. I swapped out the remaining three, reset the lights, and was good to go.
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- Thread starter
- #35
My appreciation for the 100-series has really grown over the last few years. It's truly a pleasure to drive—comfortable, capable, and with fantastic visibility. While the 80-series had always been my favorite Land Cruiser platform, the 100 has a lot of benefits over it. I've even considered looking for a "cleaner" 100, but they all seem to need some work. The plan is to keep this 100 as our dedicated "outing support vehicle"—ready for comfortable, all-day highway miles and fully capable of supporting our explorations and recreation. I'm trying to avoid building it into an overweight off-roader (as tempting as that is), as I already have a few project off-roaders that scratch those itches.
Starting in September/October, the 100 will become my daily driver for the foreseeable future, until I find another daily. We also have a few upcoming trips planned this Fall down south in Maryland, North Carolina, South Carolina, and possibly Florida (separate trips). With all these planned miles, I intend to give the 100 some much-needed love to get it ready. While it might not "need" everything right now, I believe the most effective and efficient approach is to do as much as possible at the same time, so I'll be ordering the remaining parts this week.
Planned Upgrades and Maintenance
Suspension: From what I can tell, the suspension has not received much (if any) attention, other than having the AHC pump replaced and one of the rear lines. It would likely benefit from a refresh. I plan on retaining the AHC and not lifting it, as I don’t expect to do any serious off-roading with it.
The replacement refresh would include:
Front Differential Bushings: I already have these parts. I know this can cause a clunking noise when shifting, so this is a more preemptive task to do while working on the suspension.
Interior: The interior could use a thorough cleaning and a few small things fixed. Most notably, the passenger-side fan makes a nice whining noise when the AC or heat is on.
My goal is to get this vehicle dialed in for our upcoming trips and subsequent daily duties while I look for a new daily (to keep the miles off the 100, especially in winter).
Future Dreams
Front Bumper: I really love the stock look of the front end; it has grown on me. That said, a bull bar would be nice for a winch (for self-recovery and moving inoperable vehicles). I've been looking for a used bull bar but have had no luck. I'd like to go with either an ARB or a Dissent. I've had an ARB on our 80 for almost 20 years, and to me, that's a classic Land Cruiser look that has aged nicely. The Dissent also looks great, and I like that the bull bar is optional (I may go with a flat bar). However, I'm not sure if it will match my roof rack. Functionally, I think the Dissent is the better option, but aesthetically (which is subjective), I may prefer the ARB. I'm leaning toward the Dissent today. I'm not sure if I'd get it before our upcoming Outer Banks/NC trip, so that might be a factor. I'd like to make the decision soon so I can correctly set up the suspension beforehand.
Aluminum Skid Plates: I have looked at a few aftermarket options. I would like to have something that doesn't rust and protects my undercarriage components.
Dual Battery: As mentioned above, this is something I am very interested in due to the power drain from the fridge. I already have some notes and diagrams for this project. Since I am going to retain my AHC, I would need to build my own battery tray, which is not a priority for me right now.
Open to other input and opinion on anything else to consider doing while I’m working on it. Excited to get started on this and get the 100 ready for more miles. Cheers!
Starting in September/October, the 100 will become my daily driver for the foreseeable future, until I find another daily. We also have a few upcoming trips planned this Fall down south in Maryland, North Carolina, South Carolina, and possibly Florida (separate trips). With all these planned miles, I intend to give the 100 some much-needed love to get it ready. While it might not "need" everything right now, I believe the most effective and efficient approach is to do as much as possible at the same time, so I'll be ordering the remaining parts this week.
Planned Upgrades and Maintenance
Suspension: From what I can tell, the suspension has not received much (if any) attention, other than having the AHC pump replaced and one of the rear lines. It would likely benefit from a refresh. I plan on retaining the AHC and not lifting it, as I don’t expect to do any serious off-roading with it.
The replacement refresh would include:
- Front upper and lower control arms: I'll replace either the full arm assemblies or just the bushings and ball joints.
- AHC globes: The globes will be replaced, and the AHC fluid will be flushed and replaced.
- Shock bushings: I'll replace both the lower bushings and the upper "cushions."
- Steering rack bushings: These will be replaced as well.
- Rear springs: I was gifted some used King KTRS-79 springs. When the vehicle is loaded, it sags and the AHC goes to "L." These springs are designed to handle more load weight for an AHC vehicle, so I'm hoping this will solve that issue.
- Torsion bars: The original torsion bars seem silly to not address while doing all this other suspension work. I am considering OEM if I keep it truly stock, or the OME 303001, which I believe would accommodate the additional weight from a winch and a front bumper.
Front Differential Bushings: I already have these parts. I know this can cause a clunking noise when shifting, so this is a more preemptive task to do while working on the suspension.
Interior: The interior could use a thorough cleaning and a few small things fixed. Most notably, the passenger-side fan makes a nice whining noise when the AC or heat is on.
My goal is to get this vehicle dialed in for our upcoming trips and subsequent daily duties while I look for a new daily (to keep the miles off the 100, especially in winter).
Future Dreams
Front Bumper: I really love the stock look of the front end; it has grown on me. That said, a bull bar would be nice for a winch (for self-recovery and moving inoperable vehicles). I've been looking for a used bull bar but have had no luck. I'd like to go with either an ARB or a Dissent. I've had an ARB on our 80 for almost 20 years, and to me, that's a classic Land Cruiser look that has aged nicely. The Dissent also looks great, and I like that the bull bar is optional (I may go with a flat bar). However, I'm not sure if it will match my roof rack. Functionally, I think the Dissent is the better option, but aesthetically (which is subjective), I may prefer the ARB. I'm leaning toward the Dissent today. I'm not sure if I'd get it before our upcoming Outer Banks/NC trip, so that might be a factor. I'd like to make the decision soon so I can correctly set up the suspension beforehand.
Aluminum Skid Plates: I have looked at a few aftermarket options. I would like to have something that doesn't rust and protects my undercarriage components.
Dual Battery: As mentioned above, this is something I am very interested in due to the power drain from the fridge. I already have some notes and diagrams for this project. Since I am going to retain my AHC, I would need to build my own battery tray, which is not a priority for me right now.
Open to other input and opinion on anything else to consider doing while I’m working on it. Excited to get started on this and get the 100 ready for more miles. Cheers!
- Thread starter
- #36
May 2026: ~214k miles
This fall we took the 100 on a few road trips: NH -> MD and NH -> NC/SC. It was also my winter daily and weekend-warrior/adventure wagon to ski this winter. Even took it to Montreal in January. While I hate driving it in the salt, it does phenomenal in the snow! The 100 took us to every Epic pass mountain in the Northeast to ski this winter, love the tailgate for changing, coffee and après.
Some pics of it in action.
Parked next to my sister’s first Toyota (2020 4Runner):
Ferry line in NC:
Picking up our Christmas tree:
Spring Skiing at Wildcat Mountain:
This fall we took the 100 on a few road trips: NH -> MD and NH -> NC/SC. It was also my winter daily and weekend-warrior/adventure wagon to ski this winter. Even took it to Montreal in January. While I hate driving it in the salt, it does phenomenal in the snow! The 100 took us to every Epic pass mountain in the Northeast to ski this winter, love the tailgate for changing, coffee and après.
Some pics of it in action.
Parked next to my sister’s first Toyota (2020 4Runner):
Ferry line in NC:
Picking up our Christmas tree:
Spring Skiing at Wildcat Mountain:
- Thread starter
- #37
Maintenance at 210k miles (Sep25):
Steering rack: Before our Wilmington trip, I noticed some power steering fluid in the driveway. I quickly ordered a new OEM steering rack (lucky to catch a parts sale) and tie rods. Had it installed locally at the dealership. It was 5 hours of labor plus an alignment, but I was happy to not take that job on before our trip.
Rear brakes: All new pads, rotors, calipers and hoses with OEM fluid flush.
Engine: My driver valve cover was leaking this winter. I had all the parts to replace myself but ended up snapping the first few bolts before promptly deciding this was beyond my skill set. Had a profession do both valve covers, half moons, sparks, ignitors, PCV and any hardware to go with it.
Rotated tires: Rotated the tires in my driveway. The tires had between 9/32” and 10/32 “of tread and seem to be wearing evenly. I added the spare to the rotation again. New these came with 14/32” depth, so that’s ~66% lift left after ~20k miles and 2 years. I’m pretty happy with my decision in size and rating (SL vs E) for my application but do think they are wearing faster than the Michelins I had and KO2s I have experienced on my other rigs.
TPMS: I was able to turn my flashing TPMS light off. Looks like none of my tire pressure sensors were replaced and the batteries died. I know you can disable the TPMS via Techstream, but I don’t have a computer for that yet. I do have a cell phone, so I ordered a OBD Bluetooth device and used an app to turn it off. It cost $25 for the app and “extension” package within but was able to turn the TPMS light off. Plus, I should be able to monitor the vehicle on the road on my phone if I don’t want to use the Scanguage.
Wheel Studs: Replaced front driver wheel studs (3 of 5 were stripped).
New door gaskets: I did the hatch/tailgate and engine body gaskets not long ago. Decided to do all the door gaskets too. Opening and closing the vehicle now feels and sounds new!
Steering rack: Before our Wilmington trip, I noticed some power steering fluid in the driveway. I quickly ordered a new OEM steering rack (lucky to catch a parts sale) and tie rods. Had it installed locally at the dealership. It was 5 hours of labor plus an alignment, but I was happy to not take that job on before our trip.
- Rack: 44250-60100
- Tie rod RH: 45046-69205
- Tie rod LH: 45047-69115
- Rack connection nut: 90177-22003 x2
- Bolt: 90105-A0329 x2
- Washer: 94622-41400 x2
- Nut: 90177-22003 x2
Rear brakes: All new pads, rotors, calipers and hoses with OEM fluid flush.
- Rear brake rotors: 42431-60281 x2
- Left caliper: 47750-60101
- Right caliper: 47730-60101
- Pads: 04466-60030
- Left hose: 90947-02F26
- Right hose: 90947-02F29
Engine: My driver valve cover was leaking this winter. I had all the parts to replace myself but ended up snapping the first few bolts before promptly deciding this was beyond my skill set. Had a profession do both valve covers, half moons, sparks, ignitors, PCV and any hardware to go with it.
- valve cover gasket (right): 11213-50031
- valve cover gasket (left): 11214-50011
- Spark plug seal: 11193-50010 x8
- Spark plugs: 90080-91180 x8
- Half moons: 11183-50020 x4
- Valve cover bolts: 90080-10330 x18
- Ignitor: 90919-02249 x8
- Ignitor bolts: 91641-H0625 x8
- FIPG: 00295-00103
- Vent valve: 12204-50030
- Vent valve cover: 12236-50010
- Vent hose: 12261-50070
- Hose clips: 90467-15021 x2
- Vent hose: 12262-50080
- Hose clips: 90467-20010
Rotated tires: Rotated the tires in my driveway. The tires had between 9/32” and 10/32 “of tread and seem to be wearing evenly. I added the spare to the rotation again. New these came with 14/32” depth, so that’s ~66% lift left after ~20k miles and 2 years. I’m pretty happy with my decision in size and rating (SL vs E) for my application but do think they are wearing faster than the Michelins I had and KO2s I have experienced on my other rigs.
TPMS: I was able to turn my flashing TPMS light off. Looks like none of my tire pressure sensors were replaced and the batteries died. I know you can disable the TPMS via Techstream, but I don’t have a computer for that yet. I do have a cell phone, so I ordered a OBD Bluetooth device and used an app to turn it off. It cost $25 for the app and “extension” package within but was able to turn the TPMS light off. Plus, I should be able to monitor the vehicle on the road on my phone if I don’t want to use the Scanguage.
Wheel Studs: Replaced front driver wheel studs (3 of 5 were stripped).
- Studs: 90942-02083 x5/wheel
- Lug nuts: 90942-01103 x5/wheel
New door gaskets: I did the hatch/tailgate and engine body gaskets not long ago. Decided to do all the door gaskets too. Opening and closing the vehicle now feels and sounds new!
- Front driver Door: 67862-60101
- Front passenger Door: 67861-60101
- Rear driver Door: 67872-60080
- Rear passenger Door: 67871-60080
- 53866-60060
- 53867-60060
- 67864-60020
- 67863-60020
- 67887-60010
- 67888-60010
- 67896-60020
- 67895-60020
- Speaker covers: One of my speaker covers was falling apart, so I decided to replace all my speaker covers.
- Front Left: 67709-60011-B1
- Front Right: 67609-60011-B1
- Rear Right: 67071-60011-B1
- Rear Left: 67072-60011-B1
- Thread starter
- #38
Fender trim: A car was able to remove some of the old paint ~7 years ago. Rather than try and paint match it I decided to just replace it with OEM (P/N: 75611-60120-D0)
Fan motor: Replaced the interior blower motor as it was squealing during AC and heat. It was starting to get to us, so I replaced it with an OEM motor (P/N: 87103-60250). I’m sure some can get away with just cleaning, but that did not resolve my issue.
Hatch: hatch struts were aftermarket and lasted ~7 years. They barely opened in the winter. Decided to replace them with OEM. The hatch locking mechanism was also not opening the hatch after sitting in the sun, requiring me to climb in through the back and open it. This was a huge PITA when the truck was loaded. I know some can repair the mechanism/motor but I’d rather not have to open this again if the parts are available.
Wash, clay bar and wax: Gave it a good cleaning in preparation for the summer one afternoon. Feels and looks like a new vehicle.
Very happy to give this truck a refresh and get some of the parts out of storage and installed. We have a few trips planned this summer out of it, so my focus this spring was to get it ready for summer activities as most of my vehicles seem to be projects. The 100 is at a point where I can enjoy it as is so I can now shift my project-vehicle bandwidth to my FJ40 (Build link) next, then to my engine swapping my Tacoma (will be my winter daily/beach truck).
I have most of the parts to refresh the suspension next (AHC globes, front upper and lower control arms, rear springs, torsion bars, hardware, etc). I am planning to refresh the suspension next and have any rust addressed next.
Cheers!
Fan motor: Replaced the interior blower motor as it was squealing during AC and heat. It was starting to get to us, so I replaced it with an OEM motor (P/N: 87103-60250). I’m sure some can get away with just cleaning, but that did not resolve my issue.
Hatch: hatch struts were aftermarket and lasted ~7 years. They barely opened in the winter. Decided to replace them with OEM. The hatch locking mechanism was also not opening the hatch after sitting in the sun, requiring me to climb in through the back and open it. This was a huge PITA when the truck was loaded. I know some can repair the mechanism/motor but I’d rather not have to open this again if the parts are available.
- Hatch locking mechanism: 69790-60060
- Left strut: 68960-69017
- Right strut: 68950-69057
- Strut bolts: 90119-08497 x4
Very happy to give this truck a refresh and get some of the parts out of storage and installed. We have a few trips planned this summer out of it, so my focus this spring was to get it ready for summer activities as most of my vehicles seem to be projects. The 100 is at a point where I can enjoy it as is so I can now shift my project-vehicle bandwidth to my FJ40 (Build link) next, then to my engine swapping my Tacoma (will be my winter daily/beach truck).
I have most of the parts to refresh the suspension next (AHC globes, front upper and lower control arms, rear springs, torsion bars, hardware, etc). I am planning to refresh the suspension next and have any rust addressed next.
Cheers!
- Thread starter
- #40
All cosmetic items (gaskets, trim, detail, wash, wax, etc.) I did myself on an afternoon.
I had the steering rack done at a shop (4 hours labor plus alignment) this fall. Had a different shop do the engine valve covers (5 hours labor, for rusted bolts) and rear brakes (2 hours) this spring.
Shop rates and job hours vary, but it was worth my time to outsource these jobs to professionals.
I ordered most of the parts when on sale over the last year, knowing the vehicle would need them.