Does anyone know if the high beam relay itself can be replaced?
2005 LX470 Main Junction Block Replacement (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter vcheng
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Just following up before i start this headache
Thanks so the brown relays are also soldered in?
Thats no fun!
ha.. Looking now and it doesn't seem like an easy to find denso part number, they all have the regular plug in prongs.
I'd take it apart if I couldn't afford a new board, I thing 500$ or so.
But taking apart the relay and seeing what pin configuration is there you could find replacements.
Or run new wires to a new panel and new relays, like it was said before.
I'd take it apart if I couldn't afford a new board, I thing 500$ or so.
But taking apart the relay and seeing what pin configuration is there you could find replacements.
Or run new wires to a new panel and new relays, like it was said before.
Thanks, where did you order urs from? Assume toyota?
Just a fair chunk of $ to possibly fix my non working high beams
Just a fair chunk of $ to possibly fix my non working high beams
check AUS price, I haven't ordered one or had problems but i'd get it from partsouq. If I had verifiable mag clutch relay issues I'd get a new box, all the rest I'd figure a work around. Maybe.
edit, ditch it and put hid bi xenon in the low beams and don't use the highs, provided you get a 12 volt signal on the 9005 hot sides for a splitter to pull down the shutter.
edit, ditch it and put hid bi xenon in the low beams and don't use the highs, provided you get a 12 volt signal on the 9005 hot sides for a splitter to pull down the shutter.
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oh high beams, Go through all that with a fine tooth comb before a 500 USD fix. bulb sockets, fuses, steering wheel stalk, body ecu wiring, 9005 plugs on high beam side and common ground shared (red white wire) That's more than I should guess at.
Cheers, i should add i have noticed i dont have any tail lights only brake lights when pressed and reverse
It’s so disappointing that those relays aren’t replaceable. I’m having issues with my tail lights and dash/center console lights not lighting up and the mechanic is saying the fuse box may need replacing. Seems like a bad setup and odd that they changed it from the early 100 series. If I could find a replacement relay, I’d try to solder a new one in but that doesn’t seem like an option.
I'm having issues with my charging system, the alternator isn't getting the message that it should put out voltage.... I've traced it back to the IG1-NO.1 relay, which is one that is soldered onto the board.
is it really? I haven't looked.
I see it now, yup. how did you determine that? FRIG black white to alt?
There's lots of alt threads lately. they all should be wiring, fuses, or fuse links.
I would spend 300 on stuff before I ordered a fuse box. In every situation I would be against a bad fuse box. The on;y ones I know of are AC clutch relays.
What year are you talking about?
I see it now, yup. how did you determine that? FRIG black white to alt?
There's lots of alt threads lately. they all should be wiring, fuses, or fuse links.
I would spend 300 on stuff before I ordered a fuse box. In every situation I would be against a bad fuse box. The on;y ones I know of are AC clutch relays.
What year are you talking about?
I'm in an '03 LX
It could be something before the relay, but just after the relay is the FR-IG fuse.
The fuse should have power. When my alternator isn't charging the fuse doesn't have power.
I can pull the fuse and I when I put the key to the "on" in the ignition I don't get a battery light
When my alternator isn't charging, I don't get a battery light. So downstream of that fuse is the battery light in the gauge cluster.
So it could be something before the relay, but given that others have had problems with these relays, I'm feeling pretty confident that the relay is my problem.
I'm confident enough in my solider skills to be able to solder a new relay onto the board, but it will be a couple of weeks before I pull the junction block out and look closer. Right now the relay is intermittent, but I have a good trail-fix in mind that should bypass the relay and supply fused 12 volts to the fuse
It could be something before the relay, but just after the relay is the FR-IG fuse.
The fuse should have power. When my alternator isn't charging the fuse doesn't have power.
I can pull the fuse and I when I put the key to the "on" in the ignition I don't get a battery light
When my alternator isn't charging, I don't get a battery light. So downstream of that fuse is the battery light in the gauge cluster.
So it could be something before the relay, but given that others have had problems with these relays, I'm feeling pretty confident that the relay is my problem.
I'm confident enough in my solider skills to be able to solder a new relay onto the board, but it will be a couple of weeks before I pull the junction block out and look closer. Right now the relay is intermittent, but I have a good trail-fix in mind that should bypass the relay and supply fused 12 volts to the fuse
Anybody willing to take dimensional measurements of the relays, LxWxH, contact spacing, etc? Pics of the underside? Can't tell if these are thru-hole or surface mount. The empty position looks like it has surface mount pads, not thru-holes, much harder to replace.
Or ship me a dead unit?
I'm willing to see if I could find form/fit/function replacements. Might be possible to do refurbishments if commercial equivalent relays are available.
Or ship me a dead unit?
I'm willing to see if I could find form/fit/function replacements. Might be possible to do refurbishments if commercial equivalent relays are available.
I took mine out today and took it all apart, they are through hole relays (part numbers noted earlier). The board appears to be glued to what seems like a heat-sink, I pried it apart very gently. It might come apart easier if the glue is warm. The glue could be some kind of thermal transfer agent, difficult to know for sure.
There weren't any obvious signs that there was a problem, but I forced the relay open and attempted to run some sand paper over the contacts to help clean them up. Put it all back together and truck ran just fine. because my issue is intermittent, there isn't a lot I can do to test something this deep into the car and wait for my issue to come up again.
I'm pretty sure it is the IG1 relay, but hopefully cleaning the contacts will give me a few more years of service.
I've marked what I believe to the be the positive terminal for the relay and the negative (positive post only had continuity on one other pin going into the board, but the negative had 10 or more).
I forget which side of the relay was line and which was load, but it is pretty easy to figure out by checking continuity between the fuse holders, and the 12 volt rail coming into the board.
I think if someone is having issues with just one of the relays, it wouldn't be too difficult to wire something up externally. There isn't much room to put a relay inside the box. Not as nice looking at factory, but might be worth it to save several hundred dollars.
The sad thing is that I'm sure these relays are used in dozens of other Toyota/Lexus models that are being scrapped daily. I have no clue how you figure out which cars to look at.
There weren't any obvious signs that there was a problem, but I forced the relay open and attempted to run some sand paper over the contacts to help clean them up. Put it all back together and truck ran just fine. because my issue is intermittent, there isn't a lot I can do to test something this deep into the car and wait for my issue to come up again.
I'm pretty sure it is the IG1 relay, but hopefully cleaning the contacts will give me a few more years of service.
I've marked what I believe to the be the positive terminal for the relay and the negative (positive post only had continuity on one other pin going into the board, but the negative had 10 or more).
I forget which side of the relay was line and which was load, but it is pretty easy to figure out by checking continuity between the fuse holders, and the 12 volt rail coming into the board.
I think if someone is having issues with just one of the relays, it wouldn't be too difficult to wire something up externally. There isn't much room to put a relay inside the box. Not as nice looking at factory, but might be worth it to save several hundred dollars.
The sad thing is that I'm sure these relays are used in dozens of other Toyota/Lexus models that are being scrapped daily. I have no clue how you figure out which cars to look at.
actually i stay in Bahrain here the temperature is 45 Celsius, this intermittent ac issues happend 3 times , like i get cold air and compressor is working fine but when i keep car idel for more than 15 minutes the AC switch started to blink and hot air was coming. Then i offed the ac and drove for 15 mins and on the ac back it was working fine this happen 3. Times.
my mechnaic said change MG CLT RELAY, but lx 470 , 2003 model does not have. MG CLT RELAY. MEGNATIC CLUTCH ? Today i drove the car. Ac was fine. I dont know what is the problem ???
my mechnaic said change MG CLT RELAY, but lx 470 , 2003 model does not have. MG CLT RELAY. MEGNATIC CLUTCH ? Today i drove the car. Ac was fine. I dont know what is the problem ???
actually i stay in Bahrain here the temperature is 45 Celsius, this intermittent ac issues happend 3 times , like i get cold air and compressor is working fine but when i keep car idel for more than 15 minutes the AC switch started to blink and hot air was coming. Then i offed the ac and drove for 15 mins and on the ac back it was working fine this happen 3. Times.
my mechnaic said change MG CLT RELAY, but lx 470 , 2003 model does not have. MG CLT RELAY. MEGNATIC CLUTCH ? Today i drove the car. Ac was fine. I dont know what is the problem ???
my mechnaic said change MG CLT RELAY, but lx 470 , 2003 model does not have. MG CLT RELAY. MEGNATIC CLUTCH ? Today i drove the car. Ac was fine. I dont know what is the problem ???
