If you do this, go with the 80 Amp. I'm not satisfied with dimness of the 60 Amp and will switch out when the 80s arrive.
2005 Climate control lights dash light's out (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Shikha
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The panel with the only illuminated bulb is the one I replaced. It is quite a bit bigger than the antenna and CDL button lights (but it works and it's bright). However the mounts are different on Antenna control and CDL button. IDK how I'm going to replace antenna and CDL lights. The hazard light though... U can see how the light mount is different from the other 2. Just turn that mount counterclockwise and it comes out. Then you can put in your bulb and tie the wires around a loop that's on the mount. Those wires will come into contact with that circuit board thingy. Put the mount back into the circuit board and tighten clockwise (quarter revolution). Plug in harness and test.
-If anyone knows how I can replace the other 2 bulbs that would be a tremendous help. Hope this helps somebody out.
I got the idea to purchase these bulbs from razorback. So thank you for that. You mentioned something about 80a so I did that. Just got the wrong sized bulb. If someone needs me to go back in there for more pics, let me know. Thanks.
Appears to be the same bulb setup as the backlight bulbs that I replaced on my defrost buttons. If you are careful, you can gently pry up the small brown rectangles off the circuit board, run the wire terminals from your new bulb through the two small holes in bottom of small rectangle and up the side grooves and then reset the small brown rectangle back on the prongs.
Appears to be the same bulb setup as the backlight bulbs that I replaced on my defrost buttons. If you are careful, you can gently pry up the small brown rectangles off the circuit board, run the wire terminals from your new bulb through the two small holes in bottom of small rectangle and up the side grooves and then reset the small brown rectangle back on the prongs
The button of the hazard light that I replaced seemed to be running kind of hot. Wonder if that will become a problem down the road.
I will try to give that a go TMRW morning. You just set the rectangle back? No soldering required? Also, it worked for you? With your bulbs?
I've heard the 80a run warm, but I haven't replaced the 60a yet. Got sidetracked. Hope to do it w/in the next few days. The rectangle slides back down on the prongs just like it slides off. Be gentle with it. My 60a bulbs worked great, just too dim for my liking. I want all my backlighting to look the same.
Also, try to save the green rubber covers off the old bulbs so you can re-use them on your new replacement bulbs.
No soldering required....
I'm having the same issues and initially thought that the bulb was bad but after replacing the bulb (thanks to all the great input on this forum) the bulb did not light up. Play around a little w/ the wiring and it comes on when you move the wires around so there's got to be a bad connection somewhere. Unfortunately, well above my skill level so put everything back together and I guess I have to deal with this issue unfortunately
I just went through this. The standoffs for the “brown rectangle” bulb holders are fragile and I had to re-flow the solder on one of them. No real skill required just heat enough to fix the cracked solder joint.I'm having the same issues and initially thought that the bulb was bad but after replacing the bulb (thanks to all the great input on this forum) the bulb did not light up. Play around a little w/ the wiring and it comes on when you move the wires around so there's got to be a bad connection somewhere. Unfortunately, well above my skill level so put everything back together and I guess I have to deal with this issue unfortunately
I did this with the 80a Tanin Electronics bulbs. Worked for the hazard too with the long bulb tails on the Tanin bulbs.
Fixed the center console lower bulbs for rear defrost. Side mirror defrost and rear a/c. All good now!!
the only way my came on was when I "wiggled" the wire strand but it was intermittent. There were two bulbs and a switch behind the blank cover (right side of defroster)...do you know what this is supposed to be for?
Also, have to push the defroster switch several times for it to activate, it doesn't matter how hard i push it. is there a way to correct this?? Thank you!
@divejoe I believe the blank switch is for a front heated windshield or in other markets a wiper heating section of the windshield (like my wife's 2013 200 series has). The fully heated windshield was available on the Land Cruiser "Cygnus" at least in the Japan market.
Your defroster switch might be gummed up or just going bad. My Hazard switch never worked and when I took that switch apart with the antenna and center diff lock I could see the tiny metal wire and piece of plastic were broken.
I'll get an illumination picture here shortly so all of you can compare the 80mA bulb from Tanin Electronics vs the stock bulbs.
The Side Mirror lamp is stock and the Rear A/C and Rear Defrost are the 80mA:
Your defroster switch might be gummed up or just going bad. My Hazard switch never worked and when I took that switch apart with the antenna and center diff lock I could see the tiny metal wire and piece of plastic were broken.
I'll get an illumination picture here shortly so all of you can compare the 80mA bulb from Tanin Electronics vs the stock bulbs.
The Side Mirror lamp is stock and the Rear A/C and Rear Defrost are the 80mA:
80mA bulbs in Rear A/C and Rear Defrost vs stock side mirror defrost. no material difference to my eye. Now all interior lights work again. Also 3 bulbs in Hazard switch replaced with the 80mA.
Just noticed my ashtray light doesn’t work though!
Just noticed my ashtray light doesn’t work though!
You should be able feel those switches to 80mA bulb are warmer than the switch with stock bulb.
I have not been able to discern a difference, maybe time to play with the IR thermometer.
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You are a lucky man! My rear defrost comes on and off whenever she feels like
. I need to let it go an don’t think about it
OK, road tripped a bit up and around Death Valley the past few days and had time to IR temp check the 80mA lights vs the 60mA lights...sometimes the 80mA were 1°F-1.5°F warmer after having the bulbs on for at least 4 hours each day and checking them. A few times I "IR thermometered" and the 80mA lights were 1°F-2°F cooler. I did this my checking as close as I could to the buttons with my IR thermometer.
So, I deem this acceptable for long term use in my beloved LX470, Christine.
So, I deem this acceptable for long term use in my beloved LX470, Christine.
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After 7 years of staring into the darkness where the rear fan & side mirror defoggers switches were, I sourced a used hazard/antenna/CDL switch (8401060480) that had the same bulb w/ brown rubber holder. It was a bit of a struggle to remove the back plate of the circuit board, but finally managed to pry it off w/o breaking anything. Now all switches light up as it should . However, one thing I realized was that one of the bulb I removed works. The conclusion I have come to is these are wired/circuited in series. So make sure you test both bulbs once you remove them to make sure both are not burnt out 
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. However, one thing I realized was that one of the bulb I removed works. The conclusion I have come to is these are wired/circuited in series. So make sure you test both bulbs once you remove them to make sure both are not burnt out .
