2005 Climate control lights dash light's out

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Just to chime in on this thread since I recently went through the same issue:

You cannot buy the brown rectangular sockets, BUT you can pull the sockets off of the board. The bulb is called a T1, it has a green rubber cap on it, and you can "un-lace" it from the socket. Meaning that the bulb just has long wired leads on it, and those leads are wrapped into groves in the socket. You can use a small screwdriver to pick them out and pull the bulb out.

I bought a pack of ten 7419 bulbs from mouser, laced them back into the socket, and put the green rubber caps on them. Much like the previous commenter they are dim, and if the bulbs are wired in series you would want to purchase either a 6v bulb (if two are wired in series) or a 3v bulb (if all 4 are wired in series). You could also check the resistance on your bulb to get the correct one... but all of mine were burnt out/open.

Also, be careful pulling those sockets out, the pins holding the socket in are very easy to break and I ended up having to solder one lead of my bulb from two different sockets directly to the board.
 
I just replaced mine. Bought 3 84999-10470 but the bulbs run in series and I didn't account for the blank so they were very very dim. I went ahead and installed an on hand amazon bulb but it was a lower wattage which means higher resistance so they brightened up but still about 30% dimmer. Ordering another oem bulb tomorrow to see if it solves the problem.. I believe I used the heat seater switch bulb and dismantled that. I also just replaced my gear shifter bulb.. Forgot it had one!

Also, getting the board out of it housing was tough, the trick is to remove the blank button and push out through there.

View attachment 2193500

View attachment 2193501

Do you remember if gear shifter bulb is the same? O have to change it also together with some other buttons...
 
Just to chime in on this thread since I recently went through the same issue:

You cannot buy the brown rectangular sockets, BUT you can pull the sockets off of the board. The bulb is called a T1, it has a green rubber cap on it, and you can "un-lace" it from the socket. Meaning that the bulb just has long wired leads on it, and those leads are wrapped into groves in the socket. You can use a small screwdriver to pick them out and pull the bulb out.

I bought a pack of ten 7419 bulbs from mouser, laced them back into the socket, and put the green rubber caps on them. Much like the previous commenter they are dim, and if the bulbs are wired in series you would want to purchase either a 6v bulb (if two are wired in series) or a 3v bulb (if all 4 are wired in series). You could also check the resistance on your bulb to get the correct one... but all of mine were burnt out/open.

Also, be careful pulling those sockets out, the pins holding the socket in are very easy to break and I ended up having to solder one lead of my bulb from two different sockets directly to the board.
Could you please provide the specific part number or the datasheet for the part you bought on Mouser? I’m looking for an equivalent
 
Hi also I am new I have a 2005 lexus lx 470 with the identical problem I took the heater switch apart and to my surprise these little green bulb is not replaceable it is solder into the circuit board it is very costly to replace over 600.00. if I could find the bulb my local Hi Fi audio shop will solder the new bulbs in on the circuit board. I try looking for the circuit board on line 688005-0580 with no luck. option 2.. I find the part on e/bay 84014-60280 lexus lx470 outer mirror and rear window heater switch OEM for $50.00. the used unit arrive with but I wanted to keep my original display so I carefully disconnect the circuit board from the used unit and reinstall in my original switch...boom it work ..I will keep my display setting lamp brightness to low to increase bulb life.
 
are you sure those light up when they are not engaged? Mine do not. On mine, none of those three on the bottom light up unless they are pressed. When they are pressed the two outside buttons light up orange colored and the rear fan is green.
Yeah they definitely do. Mine are all lit.
 
Just to chime in on this thread since I recently went through the same issue:

You cannot buy the brown rectangular sockets, BUT you can pull the sockets off of the board. The bulb is called a T1, it has a green rubber cap on it, and you can "un-lace" it from the socket. Meaning that the bulb just has long wired leads on it, and those leads are wrapped into groves in the socket. You can use a small screwdriver to pick them out and pull the bulb out.

I bought a pack of ten 7419 bulbs from mouser, laced them back into the socket, and put the green rubber caps on them. Much like the previous commenter they are dim, and if the bulbs are wired in series you would want to purchase either a 6v bulb (if two are wired in series) or a 3v bulb (if all 4 are wired in series). You could also check the resistance on your bulb to get the correct one... but all of mine were burnt out/open.

Also, be careful pulling those sockets out, the pins holding the socket in are very easy to break and I ended up having to solder one lead of my bulb from two different sockets directly to the board.
Good afternoon. Dealing with same issue. After you wrapped the wires of the new bulbs on the brown rectangular socket, did you just stick the brown rectangular socket back on the circuit board, or did you have solder it back on? What voltage did you end up using? Thank you for any information you can provide. Have a great day.
 
My 2006 LC rear window defrost bulbs are out. Meaning, that button is not backlit and does not illuminate when pressed.

Sounds like a lot of trouble!
 
Ah thank you for identifying the bulb.. are the bulbs with black holder t1 as well? This is Mines... looks like Christmas light bulbs

IMG_20220211_112053_01.jpg
 
Ah thank you for identifying the bulb.. are the bulbs with black holder t1 as well? This is Mines... looks like Christmas light bulbs

View attachment 2921716
I wish. I assumed it would be one of those or the small wedge bulb like in the shifter backlight. It's neither. It's a tiny bulb that is soldered to the circuit board behind those switches. I'm going to tear it down this weekend and will let you know what size bulb.
 
Before and after,

Ordered this for 14.99 next day delivery but I had to trim the base a bit and took me 4 tries before I was able to get the led polarity correct. Some were trimmed too much and they were loose in the socket so I had to pull a little of the wire that contacted the board to shim it tight. 1hour total to disassemble and reassemble 4 times over. Hazard light still out so I'll give it one more try before buttoning it up.

I didn't even know my buttons lit up until I saw this ih8mud post.

I dont think this Amazon purchase is the right product but for 14.99 and a little effort i'm gonna give it a shot. I pulled the led out of one of them and replaced 1 of the bulbs on the original Toyota wedge to compare and see if offroading will shake any loose.

3.4 out of 5 stars
83Reviews


ETOPARS 10 X Green Car Auto Dashboard T4/T4.2 Neo Wedge LED Bulb Cluster Instrument Dash Climate Gauge Light Control​


20220211_001150.jpg


20220216_223258.jpg
 
Before and after,

Ordered this for 14.99 next day delivery but I had to trim the base a bit and took me 4 tries before I was able to get the led polarity correct. Some were trimmed too much and they were loose in the socket so I had to pull a little of the wire that contacted the board to shim it tight. 1hour total to disassemble and reassemble 4 times over. Hazard light still out so I'll give it one more try before buttoning it up.

I didn't even know my buttons lit up until I saw this ih8mud post.

I dont think this Amazon purchase is the right product but for 14.99 and a little effort i'm gonna give it a shot. I pulled the led out of one of them and replaced 1 of the bulbs on the original Toyota wedge to compare and see if offroading will shake any loose.
3.4 out of 5 stars83Reviews

ETOPARS 10 X Green Car Auto Dashboard T4/T4.2 Neo Wedge LED Bulb Cluster Instrument Dash Climate Gauge Light Control​


View attachment 2928350

View attachment 2928351
Congrats on the project and thanks for sharing. My bulbs are on order (keeping it stock). 3mm, 14v, 60mA, & 80mA Automotive Light Bulbs | Tanin Auto - https://www.taninautoelectronix.com/product/3mm-14v-60ma-80ma-light-bulbs/. I'll update you on final result. Good luck with the hazard light.
 
Congrats on the project and thanks for sharing. My bulbs are on order (keeping it stock). 3mm, 14v, 60mA, & 80mA Automotive Light Bulbs | Tanin Auto - https://www.taninautoelectronix.com/product/3mm-14v-60ma-80ma-light-bulbs/. I'll update you on final result. Good luck with the hazard light.
I flipped the wedge 180 degrees and it all works now.. the led i bought eats up 20mA and still dimmable. While I was in there I added 3 layers of electrical tape to my ac buttons and for now all controls work with one push vs several pushes.

Looking forward to your write up on the soldered on board leds. I'm hesitant to do that as I still don't understand how ypu would identify which wore is positive or negative u less they make a led that is bi directional polarity?
 
I flipped the wedge 180 degrees and it all works now.. the led i bought eats up 20mA and still dimmable. While I was in there I added 3 layers of electrical tape to my ac buttons and for now all controls work with one push vs several pushes.

Looking forward to your write up on the soldered on board leds. I'm hesitant to do that as I still don't understand how ypu would identify which wore is positive or negative u less they make a led that is bi directional polarity?
SOLVED! I was mistaken. The bulbs can be replaced without soldering or desoldering. If you are careful, you can gently pry up the small brown rectangles off the circuit board, run the wire terminals from your new bulb through the two small holes in bottom of small rectangle and up the side grooves and then reset the small brown rectangle back on the prongs.
 
SOLVED! I was mistaken. The bulbs can be replaced without soldering or desoldering. If you are careful, you can gently pry up the small brown rectangles off the circuit board, run the wire terminals from your new bulb through the two small holes in bottom of small rectangle and up the side grooves and then reset the small brown rectangle back on the prongs.
The question is, what bulb did you put back into the little brown rectangle?

I'm having trouble with my CDL and hazard buttons no longer lighting up. Along with rear defrost (2004 for reference). Any help is much appreciated 👍
 
The question is, what bulb did you put back into the little brown rectangle?

I'm having trouble with my CDL and hazard buttons no longer lighting up. Along with rear defrost (2004 for reference). Any help is much appreciated 👍
I can't speak to the bulbs on the Hazard and CDL, but I used a 3mm, 14v, 60 Amp wire terminal bulb for my defrost, rear defrost, and side view mirror defrost. The 60 Amp is a little dim, so I'm going with an 80 Amp next time.

bulb.jpg
 
I can't speak to the bulbs on the Hazard and CDL, but I used a 3mm, 14v, 60 Amp wire terminal bulb for my defrost, rear defrost, and side view mirror defrost. The 60 Amp is a little dim, so I'm going with an 80 Amp next time.

View attachment 2940101
Thanks so much razorback. Are you 03-07 model? Because along with my hazard and CDL, I also have rear defrost light out.

If so, is it pretty easy to get that center panel out to access the bulbs (center panel for mirror defrost, rear fan, rear defrost)
 
Thanks so much razorback. Are you 03-07 model? Because along with my hazard and CDL, I also have rear defrost light out.

If so, is it pretty easy to get that center panel out to access the bulbs (center panel for mirror defrost, rear fan, rear defrost)
I have a 2001 LC. Trimpiece around radio/nav system is pretty easy to remove. Use a plastic pry tool and go slowly. You then unhook the harness clip and go from there. There are a number of threads with pics on what it all looks like and how to do it.
 
Just to chime in on this thread since I recently went through the same issue:

You cannot buy the brown rectangular sockets, BUT you can pull the sockets off of the board. The bulb is called a T1, it has a green rubber cap on it, and you can "un-lace" it from the socket. Meaning that the bulb just has long wired leads on it, and those leads are wrapped into groves in the socket. You can use a small screwdriver to pick them out and pull the bulb out.

I bought a pack of ten 7419 bulbs from mouser, laced them back into the socket, and put the green rubber caps on them. Much like the previous commenter they are dim, and if the bulbs are wired in series you would want to purchase either a 6v bulb (if two are wired in series) or a 3v bulb (if all 4 are wired in series). You could also check the resistance on your bulb to get the correct one... but all of mine were burnt out/open.

Also, be careful pulling those sockets out, the pins holding the socket in are very easy to break and I ended up having to solder one lead of my bulb from two different sockets directly to the board.
Replaced my backlight bulbs and have the same "dim light" issue for two right side backlights. Did you ever find solution? Thank you.
 
Thanks so much razorback. Are you 03-07 model? Because along with my hazard and CDL, I also have rear defrost light out.

If so, is it pretty easy to get that center panel out to access the bulbs (center panel for mirror defrost, rear fan, rear defrost)
I had to replace my 2001 LC Hazard Switch backlight today. Dorman OEM Replacement bulb 639—007 works in the slot, but I still went ahead and dewired the bulb from the Dorman bulb base and rewired it to the original Toyota bulb baske to ensure the best connectivity. Good to go! I hope this helps someone out there....
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom