2001 transmission advice (1 Viewer)

[kjcadungug]

So I have read a lot of the threads and posts regarding the 100 series transmission. None of them have the same issue that I am having so I’m seeking some advice. My 2001 LC100 with the 2UZ with 130k kilometers has been shifting hard since the weather has gotten cold here. I had a pan off fluid change done, drove it for about a month and had another pan off fluid change done. It has gotten a little bit smoother but is still shifting rough when cold. My shop is recommending that they replace any and all filters and clean out the transmission. There wasn’t any evidence of shavings in the fluid but the fluid was original until I had it replaced and is still getting dirty. Any suggestions or experience with this issue?

 

[2001LC]

A/T fluid (ATF) volume changes with temperature. Cold the level is lower, hot higher. Set the level with ATF #1 temp at 158F to 176F, engine idling after shifting through all gears (hold in each gear ~30 sec). Set level to hot high mark (do not go over), while A/T in "P".

There is no filter in transmission. Only a pick-up screen, which never needs replacing.

I do 12 qt. flushes, with Mobil 1 Multi vehicle ATF, rated for Dexron III. In the 1998-02 3 spd w/OD

If only doing a pan drain and fill of 3 to 4 qts. You still have ~8 qts of old fluid.
If you take a glass of sewage water, pour out 25% and add 25% clean water back in. Would you expect it to be clean, NO! Would you then drink it, I hope not!

 

[Octous]

It’s pretty tricky to get the fluid level right. I did it diy and found that I had to drive the car quite a bit to get it to the “proper measurement temperature” then check with the dipstick.

When cold. The dipstick indicated the transmission was overfilled. But of course it really wasn’t.

 

[Malleus]

what @2001LC said.

If it's getting better with a little new fluid in it, wouldn't you expect it to continue to improve if all the fluid was replaced? Follow the transmission flush procedure that @2001LC has described. It's the fastest, cheapest, best way to do the job.

A new transmission didn't perform this way, so there's no reason to believe that it should later in its life, unless something has worn. The hard shifts are likely a function of poor fluid flow in the valve body, if the shifting improves when the transmission oil temperature rises. If you want a shop to do anything, have them remove and thoroughly clean the valve body, but I'd guess that's overkill. A fluid flush will probably fix the problem.

 

[kjcadungug]

Thank you all for the advice, I really appreciate it! I will look into a fluid flush first. It is difficult for me to do any diy as I live in military housing with no garage. I will see if the auto hobby shop allows transmission flushing in their bays. Thank you again!

 

[Malleus]

The hobby shop will let you do it, it's no more messy than an oil change.

Just follow @2001LC 's directions for using the return line from the cooler. A helper is good to have, too; saves time running back and forth to start and stop the engine and run through the gears.

 

[2001LC]

Thank you all for the advice, I really appreciate it! I will look into a fluid flush first. It is difficult for me to do any diy as I live in military housing with no garage. I will see if the auto hobby shop allows transmission flushing in their bays. Thank you again!

Something you can do today, as a first test: Check fluid level. Make very sure you understand, how level is checked. If low, add to high mark. The drive to see if improves.

Key is to checking level is A/T fluid temp:

1. Best way to check A/T fluid (ATF) temperature, is through tech stream.
2. Second best, use IR gun. Shoot pan, within (end of gun) 3" of center of pan. Keep in mind; Radiant and ambient temp, affect metal of pan, thus IR temp reading. Example: In my shop, with room temp 68F. IR gun 155F, ATF temp in tech stream 158F.
3. Third best (worst). OM states drive until at operating temp.