I think I would get one from West Coast Cruisers. It's more expensive but you get a billet T/C and upgraded valve body. All of that cuts down on slip, which reduces heat. That's a big plus for what I do with my 100 (wheel and tow).
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I have a slight twist to the line of questioning here - is it possible to visually determine if my transmission is original? For example, should the VIN appear on the tranny somewhere?
However, when I was underneath changing fluids and O2 sensors, it definitely looked liked there were many scuffed bolt heads. All the bolts to the engine block and transfer case as well as the chassis crossmember looked like they had been turned since leaving the factory. The tranny pan has apparently been dropped at some point (cork gasket replacement).
Larry, thanks so much for taking the time to submit your sample for analysis and posting here! And sorry again for your misfortune.
As a 2nd data point, here's mine from before my first fluid change that I know of. PO may have done one, but it wasn't evident in the records.
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Now that's just mean.*jinx*
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