2000 taco vrs 88 and 85 toyota straight axle

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Still on my search for the perfect toyota truck. Right now I'm looking at a 2000 6cyl tacoma xtra cab 155k, an 88 22r w/ 225k motor rebuilt 10k ago, and an 85 22r with 110k original miles on engine.

2000 taco-salvaged title, vehicle was totaled front side collision, only asking 3k. its in good condition now, everything replaced. its got the 3.4 v6 some im wondering about gas mileage, needs a front end alignment 115k on the dash.

1988- 22r rebuilt about 10k ago, I'm worried about rust on this one, going to check it out tommorow. Any particular spots it should check that are prone to rust? I know they breifly made the truck beds in US in the 80s, Someone told me check the vin make sure it starts with a J and it should be alright. he wants 2500

1985- Now the beast some call it. Its and 85 straight axle, very clean, no rust engine's a little rattly sounds like timing chain. Maybe someone could educate on the advantages of straight axle vrs indp. I also know this year has no power steering that kinda sucks. 110k original miles no rust, looks like it was only used hunting. they want 3900.

Again im looking for good mpgs, reliablity, and ease to work on. It will be my primary transport and i commute to work. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, anything in particular i should be asking these sellers, Im a little weary on that 2000 model since its been wrecked but its over half off blue book, and i really would like the xtra cab. Thanks
 
Ok, I might be able to help. I've had that same list of trucks (pretty much). I currently have a 2003 tacoma with the 3.4L V6, and I used to have an '85 and I had a '93 also.

Let me start with the Tacoma. There is clearly more power with the 3.4 and I have the automatic trans which feels more sluggish than the manual trans. I generally get in the 18-20mpg range with the 3.4. It seems to be a very reliable motor as there are lots of high mileage ones out there. I only have 93K on mine right now so it's a bit less than what you're looking at but if it has good compression #s etc, I wouldn't be worried about it. Check to see that the timing belt has been replaced. Factory recommends the timing belt be changed around 90-100K miles.

The salvage title can be a bit of a concern especially with front end damage. There is the potential that getting it properly aligned is very difficult which can have a negative affect on steering, suspension and cause poor tire wear. I'd be less concerned with rear frame damage than I would the front.


As for the '88. It should have the fuel injected 22RE not the carbeurated 22R. I assume it does, but probably worth double checking since they say it's "rebuilt". Make sure it was in fact rebuilt and not a motor swap. These particular trucks are definitely rust prone in the beds. Poor quality steel and less than ideal construction makes for very rusty areas around most of the seams on the bed and around wheel wells. I would check those spots for rust. I don't know where you live but they can have some issues with frame rust as well so it's a good idea to crawl underneath and take a good look around the frame for rust and/or cracks. $2500 isn't unreasonable for that era.

For the '85. You have incorrect information regarding power steering on this one. They were definitely offered from the factory with power steering. The plus side to these trucks is that they had the much desired combination of a solid front axle as well as the fuel injected 22RE. However many of them came with the carb'd 22R motor so find out whatcha got there. As for the power steering issue. It would be a relatively easy modification to go with some type of hysteer setup from somewhere like Marlin Crawler that uses the power steering box from a later truck. That would also be a good move if you plan on adding any kind of lift to the truck or running bigger tires. The hysteer setup will be much nicer if you plan on those things. You'll have the same concerns with rust that you would with the '88.

Either model of the 22R motor is famous for its reliablity and it's pretty easy to work on. I was getting 20-23mpg in my '93 with the 22RE.

The pros/cons of the straight axle vs the IFS is highly dependant on how you want to use the truck. Bottom line is that the straight axle will be stonger and there are more options for lifts, steering, larger tires etc with the straight axle. The stright axle truck will be a great all-around wheeler and can excel as a rockcrawler. The tacoma and the '88 with IFS will still be a decent all-around wheeler, but probably slightly better on the road and more comfortable if you spend most of your off-road time on fireroads or higher speed roads instead of technical rocky trails. The IFS can still do the more technical trails but suspension travel is limited when compared to the straight axle and the CV shafts on the IFS trucks just aren't as strong.

the 4cyl trucks won't make for a fast commute, but they will be pretty reliable. They are known to make some valve noise (or ticking sound) which is what you might be hearing. Either way it's a good idea to do a compression test or better yet a leak down test on the motor and maybe do a valve adjustment just to make sure the motor is dialed in as it should be.

good luck.

Just because I'm a photo junkie......and since it might give you some ideas, here's a few pics of my trucks of those eras.

My '03 Tacoma just before a 1000 mile wheeling trip.
_MG_9288.jpg


my '93 truck. This truck had a solid axle swap too. Loved this truck.
_MG_6447.jpg


my '85. Obviously had the rust issues with the bed so I removed it and built a flat bed.
driversidefront.jpg
 

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