200 Series Toyota Land Cruiser - Transfer Case Damper Torque Spec (1 Viewer)

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Hi to all of you,

I recently installed an ARB skit plate kit (5415100) in my 2008 Toyota Land Cruiser. I had to remove the Transfer Case dynamic damper as part of the installation. However, I am questioning the torque specification provided by ARB (see attached file - page 6 of 12) of 77Nm or ~57 lb-ft to be too high.

Does any of you know the recommended torque for the 2-M12 bolts holding the dynamic damper?

Thanks
 

Attachments

  • ARB Skid Plates Protection Instructions-5415100.pdf
    1.7 MB · Views: 161
Thank you Taco2Cruiser. That is a big difference!!!
Yeah it is!

I’ve replaced a few ARB skids with BB skids and found they all had broken harmonic balancer mounts. I thought it had more to do with the impact from bottoming out goes right into the cast aluminum case, which really doesn’t handle it too well. We seen a few cracked cases already from off road use. But now I know this is also to blame... sad really.

I’ve TIG’ed one case back together, but no need for that at all. I’ll call ARB and let them know.

9 ft lbf is barely hand tight. The cast aluminum the case is made of probably will start to deform at around 40-50, and sheer at around 70 based what I know of that material.
 
Yeah it is!

I’ve replaced a few ARB skids with BB skids and found they all had broken harmonic balancer mounts. I thought it had more to do with the impact from bottoming down goes right into the cast aluminum case, which really doesn’t handle it too well. We seen a few cracked cases already from off road us. But Now I know this is also to blame... sad really.

I’ve TIG’ed one case back together, but no need for that at all. I’ll call ARB and let them know.

9 ft lbf is barely hand tight. The cast aluminum the case is made of probably will start to deform at around 40-50, and sheer at around 70 based what I know of that material.
Indeed it is too high. I noticed that one of the bolts was starting to losing up at around 50 ft lbf. Now, I need to remove them and re-torque to 9 ftb using loctited and hope I did not mess up the transfer case or the damper.
 
ARB just e-mailed me a revised version of their instructions after I sent them an e-mail letting them know that the referenced torque may be too high. The recommended torque in their new version (3/09/2018 - exactly 2 years ago from today or the date of my e-mail) is 39Nm or 29 ft lbf. I have attached the revised instructions.
 

Attachments

  • 5415100 UVP LC200 SERIES.pdf
    1.7 MB · Views: 116
Indeed it is too high. I noticed that one of the bolts was starting to losing up at around 50 ft lbf. Now, I need to remove them and re-torque to 9 ftb using loctited and hope I did not mess up the transfer case or the damper.
It’s deformed internally now. Cast aluminum just can’t handle that level of stress. I wouldn’t use loctite, it may push it over the edge when removing the balancer at a latter time, and you might crack the mount off. Best to just hand tighten it. (Seen this personably, it sucks)

9 ft lbf is too low for any torque wrench below $400 in my opinion. If you have a craftsman, anything from harbor freight, an Amazon cheaper wrench, they are all pretty inaccurate below 40.

My “engine work” wrench I use to do anything below 20, is an $1100 snap on. Every year it gets calibrated and that sometimes, even that has some trouble with that low of accuracy after a year of use on my personal motors.
 
I really wish I could find a good torque wrench in the 3-5nm range for carbon bike parts... I have probably 6 - click, digital and beam cheap to moderately expensive and I don't really trust any of them. Tested against each other is a range of at least 1nm. But then, I probably wouldn't put it in the race tool case. So beam for the durability (repeatability) at least. For the >=10ft/lbs higher end CDI click and digital. I'm not building engines though. Reminds me I'm overdue to get the big digital calibrated.
 
Instead of loc-tite, try vibratite. It does not harden. It stays soft and is reusable. It will not take as much heat as loc-tite though. Amazon carries it.
 
Try using an inch-pound wrench. 9 ftlbs = 108 inch lbs. Might be closer to mid range on an inch LB wrench.
 
Another PSA

Installing another pair of sliders and saw this while rolling around.
4B138F41-84D2-42A3-A96A-A7837E55A4B8.jpeg

Looks like at one time this 200 had a transfer case fluid service and whoever put the dampener back on, didn’t see the cut out that goes around a bolt.

I’ll flip this around, but for anyone out there that may have had someone work around the t-case, it may be worth it to make sure the dampener is mounted properly.
 
Last edited:
The updated manual still is
ARB just e-mailed me a revised version of their instructions after I sent them an e-mail letting them know that the referenced torque may be too high. The recommended torque in their new version (3/09/2018 - exactly 2 years ago from today or the date of my e-mail) is 39Nm or 29 ft lbf. I have attached the revised instructions.
this is still more than the factory recommended 9 ft lb. Isn't it going to deform the case?
 
@Taco2Cruiser , I recently installed the ski plates and used 29 ft lbs for damper (as stated in ARB guide) bolts as opposed to the factory recommended 9 ft lbs. Should I go back to 9 ft lbs or is the damage done?
 
@Taco2Cruiser , I recently installed the ski plates and used 29 ft lbs for damper (as stated in ARB guide) bolts as opposed to the factory recommended 9 ft lbs. Should I go back to 9 ft lbs or is the damage done?
I would.
 

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