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2.0" Diameter x 2.0" shaft.

Need to replace that factory bump stop with these ones. Progressive too

You have so much more room under there than i do. That factory bump stop hit my shock (Kings 3.0's) so we had to trim it but since then have found these new ones to allow more room.

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Need to replace that factory bump stop with these ones. Progressive too

You have so much more room under there than i do. That factory bump stop hit my shock (Kings 3.0's) so we had to trim it but since then have found these new ones to allow more room.

View attachment 1959958

Yes!, I have heard allot about progressive foam urethane bumps stops. I am defiantly planning on replacing the stock ones with these, however I firstly need to tune all my 6 shocks to run and ride 100%, then when they are properly tuned to use up all of the available travel over my terrain and driving, I can throw these bump stops in for bottoming control.

I removed both the rear ICON and front KING bump stops, since I have to do some major tuning work, especially upfront. The damping curves are not even close to where I want them to be upfront (2 coil overs, 2 omega bypasses).

Since the ICON's are digressive on rebound, and linear/digressive on compression. I might either invest in a KING shock setup for the front, or maybe try my luck and play with the front valving on the ICON's to get them to act with progressive nature. Maybe remove shim stack p reload, and a flutter and open up some bleed ports. Could learn something new.

Getting close on the rear 3.0 shocks. After countless discussions with the KING shock tuning specialist Gerardo, Motorsports and my local ICON dealer, I found out that piston bleed play's the biggest role in low speed compression which is where my issues lie, "mostly", also need to lighten up the rebound damping. I initially did not know that other factors played in shock valving and tuning. Thought shim stacks were the only variable to change. Clearly I was very wrong.
 
I'm running 3.0's front and rear. Havent had a chance to get the valving completely sorted yet but keen to see how the bump stops are mounted. When crossing the simpson desert i was bottoming out a lot and the closest description i can think of for the cars behaviour over the whoops is "pig rooting". Individual wheel control was good but the back and forth action wasn't right. Likely need to back off on the rebound, especially with the hydro bump stops. We have some great guys that know how to setup the cars here in AU, especially with the desert racing. Maybe a trip to the Finke Desert race should be in your future and have a chat to some of the guys. Id be happy to host you.

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I'm running 3.0's front and rear. Havent had a chance to get the valving completely sorted yet but keen to see how the bump stops are mounted. When crossing the simpson desert i was bottoming out a lot and the closest description i can think of for the cars behaviour over the whoops is "pig rooting". Individual wheel control was good but the back and forth action wasn't right. Likely need to back off on the rebound, especially with the hydro bump stops. We have some great guys that know how to setup the cars here in AU, especially with the desert racing. Maybe a trip to the Finke Desert race should be in your future and have a chat to some of the guys. Id be happy to host you.

View attachment 1960006

Man you guys are really lucky to have those tuners out there. Id be out with them all weekend. I have to rely on trial and error and phone calls unfortunately but I am slowly learning.

I am assuming you were bottoming on the front end mostly ? since the rear 3.0s are valved pretty stiff already with 3 closed bleed ports from the factory.
 
quick shot in the parking lot while I was unbolting the front mud flaps after mounting the new wheels and tires. hard to capture how huge it is in person.
1960649

confession: i am not actually a senior citizen, one of the shop guys just parked it in that spot haha.
 
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Tune tune! (Rear end):

Just learned that piston bleed ports have the most control over low speed damping ! (Originally thought that shims stacks had full control) . Oh man after unscrewing one, the ride quality was much more plush. Still needs more tuning!.

All three were closed, since this is a 3.0 race series bypass shock, I imagine all three were closed to make the damping curve lean towards the linear side.

Threw in a thinner shims stack on compression, didn't do much difference to the low speed, just mid to high. Then I unscrwed a single screw from the piston bleed. Boom, much better. Still to much rebound damping though. Stable but not as plush as it can be. Need to find the perfect balance, enough rebound to keep the rear end from unsettling, but little enough to allow the spring to push the tires back down to the bumps.



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rubbing a tad hu?
Haha, yes sir. I believe our setups have the exact same specs, so you probably know well. Haven't tried at extreme articulation or anything, but out and about on city streets the rubbing is minor.

Gonna just trim the rocker panel inside edge, and then heatgun the liner - maybe do the little 4Runner liner unbolt thing. From the little shine spots where there's been rubbing, I can see that there isn't a whole lot to tackle. When all is said and done, it's a minor correction to have to make - no need for a body mount chop or anything that some hand tools can't handle within an hour.

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The stance it has now, and will have after a lift down the road, is well worth it. It looks a lot more planted without being excessively pokey that it looks like a bro truck mall crawler haha.

For other's reference, the 0 offset means the edge of the tread (285/70 on 17x8.5) is actually flush with the fender, but the sidewall of course bulges and creates the slight protrusion past the fender. I think that keeps it looking (and behaving) functionally, much like a Ford Raptor or baja/prerunner truck. In my opinion, it looks incredible from behind and in the rearview mirror. Very aggressive and mean.

@Markuson and @wesel123 brought up a valid point that this could be annoying on the trail, kicking up rocks and gravel around the mudflaps (now nonexistent in the front) to the vehicles or trailer behind you. Not sure if this would kick up rocks on to the side of the LC as well. Something to keep in mind. Also, there's the arguments to be made about affecting the scrub radius, handling characteristics, or how much articulation is possible.

So I guess the takeaway for wheel offset on 200's that I've observed: ET+40 completely safe, +25 safe and about flush, +18 flush but probably requires mudflap removal, +0 upper limit before poking too much and requiring more than simple rolling/trimming/unbolting.
 
Went for a little hike that starts a 10 min walk (or 1 min drive) from the house. Spot the 200!

OIW505A.jpg
 
Was at the Lexus dealer on way home from work to look at an RC F and saw this sweet blacked-out brand new 570. I’m partial to the LC but this was a really nice ride in and out.

F23232C0-0181-49B8-AC68-E038F933A2C2.jpeg
 
Haha, yes sir. I believe our setups have the exact same specs, so you probably know well. Haven't tried at extreme articulation or anything, but out and about on city streets the rubbing is minor.

Gonna just trim the rocker panel inside edge, and then heatgun the liner - maybe do the little 4Runner liner unbolt thing. From the little shine spots where there's been rubbing, I can see that there isn't a whole lot to tackle. When all is said and done, it's a minor correction to have to make - no need for a body mount chop or anything that some hand tools can't handle within an hour.

View attachment 1961362

The stance it has now, and will have after a lift down the road, is well worth it. It looks a lot more planted without being excessively pokey that it looks like a bro truck mall crawler haha.

For other's reference, the 0 offset means the edge of the tread (285/70 on 17x8.5) is actually flush with the fender, but the sidewall of course bulges and creates the slight protrusion past the fender. I think that keeps it looking (and behaving) functionally, much like a Ford Raptor or baja/prerunner truck. In my opinion, it looks incredible from behind and in the rearview mirror. Very aggressive and mean.

@Markuson and @wesel123 brought up a valid point that this could be annoying on the trail, kicking up rocks and gravel around the mudflaps (now nonexistent in the front) to the vehicles or trailer behind you. Not sure if this would kick up rocks on to the side of the LC as well. Something to keep in mind. Also, there's the arguments to be made about affecting the scrub radius, handling characteristics, or how much articulation is possible.

So I guess the takeaway for wheel offset on 200's that I've observed: ET+40 completely safe, +25 safe and about flush, +18 flush but probably requires mudflap removal, +0 upper limit before poking too much and requiring more than simple rolling/trimming/unbolting.
Yup I’m the same , agree it looks good , my fcp lift is getting put on tom, so I will see how that helps any .. it’s hard to find a 17 inch wheel with the stock off set . And I had to have bronze so I will take the trade off I guess . Will post pics of the lift tom
 

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