200 Series Engine Swap Options (2 Viewers)

[MissoulaMan]

It should be really easy to check crankshaft thrust clearance with a dial indicator. Any idea whether any of the shops have done this yet?

Also you can send off a sample of the engine oil for analysis. If anything is letting the crank walk there would be plenty of evidence of it in the oil.

Those are great tips. I've had pretty lengthy conversations with all of them and the dial indicator checking for crankshaft thrust clearance was never mentioned. There isn't much room in between the pully and the radiator, maybe because they are hesitant to take it that far apart just for diagnosis? With the abnormal engine noise, I think they got pretty confident in the diagnosis.

For oil analysis, is there a length of time or number of miles you'd want in there before sending off? With the leak and keeping it topped off and the latest full change seemingly not that long ago (before I got it), its clean and golden yet.

 

[bloc]

Those are great tips. I've had pretty lengthy conversations with all of them and the dial indicator checking for crankshaft thrust clearance was never mentioned. There isn't much room in between the pully and the radiator, maybe because they are hesitant to take it that far apart just for diagnosis? With the abnormal engine noise, I think they got pretty confident in the diagnosis.

In that case a lever-type indicator could help a lot with packaging. Yes it may be a challenge to find something ferrous for a magnetic base or solid enough for a clamp-type mount, but a mechanic that knows what they're doing should be able to handle this.

For oil analysis, is there a length of time or number of miles you'd want in there before sending off? With the leak and keeping it topped off and the latest full change seemingly not that long ago (before I got it), its clean and golden yet.

Generally the more miles on the oil the better for analysis, but again if you're having significant thrust bearing issues with this engine it should be apparent even with very few miles on the oil in that condition. UOA (used oil analysis) looks for most elements in the range of PPM, including metals used in the block, bearings, and rotating assembly. It is very sensitive. Actual mechanical problems will very quickly become apparent when analyzed this way. People have seen slightly elevated potassium levels that pointed to an incipient head gasket leak and were able to address the problem well before any damage occurred to the block, head, or other mechanical parts. It really is a powerful tool.

You could also contact Blackstone or another respected UOA lab to get their take on things and see if they think it's worthwhile.

 

[linuxgod]

FWIW I’ve had leaks on motors before that only showed up under higher RPMs. I had a 1980 Celica that leaked like a sieve above 2800 RPMs, to the tune of a quart every 50 miles, but early shifts and light throttle around town and the dipstick never moved. (Turned out to be an oil pan that was so loose I could tighten the bolts with my fingers).

I suspect BTW it’s not just high RPMs but actually putting a load on the motor that is causing your leak. From the description I would’ve guessed the rear main seal, but I’m no expert here especially without pics

 

[MissoulaMan]

Generally the more miles on the oil the better for analysis, but again if you're having significant thrust bearing issues with this engine it should be apparent even with very few miles on the oil in that condition. UOA (used oil analysis) looks for most elements in the range of PPM, including metals used in the block, bearings, and rotating assembly. It is very sensitive. Actual mechanical problems will very quickly become apparent when analyzed this way. People have seen slightly elevated potassium levels that pointed to an incipient head gasket leak and were able to address the problem well before any damage occurred to the block, head, or other mechanical parts. It really is a powerful tool.

You could also contact Blackstone or another respected UOA lab to get their take on things and see if they think it's worthwhile.

Ya'll are great thanks for the help. I was thinking of doing an oil change anyway as I wanted to see if there was any clues going through that process so I'll plan on an sending oil in for an analysis pronto.

 

[MissoulaMan]

FWIW I’ve had leaks on motors before that only showed up under higher RPMs. I had a 1980 Celica that leaked like a sieve above 2800 RPMs, to the tune of a quart every 50 miles, but early shifts and light throttle around town and the dipstick never moved. (Turned out to be an oil pan that was so loose I could tighten the bolts with my fingers).

I suspect BTW it’s not just high RPMs but actually putting a load on the motor that is causing your leak. From the description I would’ve guessed the rear main seal, but I’m no expert here especially without pics

I can take pics but the one constant from three mechanics is that its coming out of the crank seal or so close to that it's indistinguishable from that. There could definitely be other leaks (e.g., evidence of a pretty minor cam tower leak) but this one is profuse enough to cover other sources.

 

[open country]

@gray rider How is the swap going?

 

[gray rider]

@gray rider How is the swap going?

Just now getting in to the meat of it.....will update "soon"....

 

[PDoyle]

No pics?

 

[gray rider]

Not yet....will update "soon".....

 

[MissoulaMan]

In that case a lever-type indicator could help a lot with packaging. Yes it may be a challenge to find something ferrous for a magnetic base or solid enough for a clamp-type mount, but a mechanic that knows what they're doing should be able to handle this.




Generally the more miles on the oil the better for analysis, but again if you're having significant thrust bearing issues with this engine it should be apparent even with very few miles on the oil in that condition. UOA (used oil analysis) looks for most elements in the range of PPM, including metals used in the block, bearings, and rotating assembly. It is very sensitive. Actual mechanical problems will very quickly become apparent when analyzed this way. People have seen slightly elevated potassium levels that pointed to an incipient head gasket leak and were able to address the problem well before any damage occurred to the block, head, or other mechanical parts. It really is a powerful tool.

You could also contact Blackstone or another respected UOA lab to get their take on things and see if they think it's worthwhile.

I think I can forgo the oil analysis. Safe to say its got some engine wear issues.

So a now more informed guess is the seller quickly realized the issue, covered it best he could and duped me into buying it. There was a few shreds of an old oil filter in with the metal shavings, visible center right of the first image (with the installed one having no rips) so maybe that points to the cause. Multiple other red flags in hindsight like all communication through the craigslist alias email.

Pretty amazing it drives as well as it still does and only outward symptom is a crankseal leak that actually takes awhile to notice on the dipstick.

Also amazing it was into a dealership mechanic three times, another more general mechanic, and finally the toyota specialist and nobody mentioned this pretty obvious one (Toyota Master Tech seemed to have figured it out regardless).

 

[MissoulaMan]

So back to the original thread I've hijacked a bit I'm to the swap or sell decision point.

 

[rexington14]

Misery loves company so here's my first post after years of simply lurking and my story of what I'm dealing with on my new-to-me 2008 Land Cruiser (145k miles):

Been dreaming of a Land Cruiser since high school (20+ years ago) when my buddy had one with great memories. Finally in financial and family position to go for one. I'm usually logical and emotionless in these situations (PhD in fire science) but desperately wanted to let emotions lead the way and didn't fully check out with a discerning eye, overlooked glaring red flags (online flagellation warranted), and the seller clearly hid things (unplugged oil pressure sensor, cleaned all the leaked oil up right before sale, etc.).

Anyway a seemingly minor leak has lead to my two months of ownership has it into three different mechanics, multiple crankshaft seals replaced, crank pulley replaced, many hours of testing from myself and mechanics, and still a major oil leak out the front when the engine is under load.

Latest diagnosis from the reputable indy mechanic, which makes sense and they actually spent the time to verify unlike the dealership, being abnormal crankshaft movement from an internal issue leading to the leak at the crank seal and only realistic fix is an engine replacement.

Best wild guess is a botched oil change or other source of overheating lead to internal engine damage.
I'm not really in the position for dealing with a long-term project (another 6 weeks before the one indy shop can get to it) and fix and may try to sell at a loss with a full disclosure of what it needs.
Any thoughts on that idea or other suggestions would be welcome. You'll probably see it up on the classifieds soon.

PPI is always a good idea no matter what used vehicle you buy but IMO a thorough PPI is an absolute must on any 200 series

 

[Artie]

I think I can forgo the oil analysis. Safe to say its got some engine wear issues.

View attachment 3987040View attachment 3987039

So a now more informed guess is the seller quickly realized the issue, covered it best he could and duped me into buying it. There was a few shreds of an old oil filter in with the metal shavings, visible center right of the first image (with the installed one having no rips) so maybe that points to the cause. Multiple other red flags in hindsight like all communication through the craigslist alias email.

Pretty amazing it drives as well as it still does and only outward symptom is a crankseal leak that actually takes awhile to notice on the dipstick.

Also amazing it was into a dealership mechanic three times, another more general mechanic, and finally the toyota specialist and nobody mentioned this pretty obvious one (Toyota Master Tech seemed to have figured it out regardless).

Obligatory post for forbidden glitter.

Bummer.

 

[PDoyle]

So back to the original thread I've hijacked a bit I'm to the swap or sell decision point.

Drive it.

 

[Sandroad]

So back to the original thread I've hijacked a bit I'm to the swap or sell decision point.

Your first post on this indicated you weren’t in a position for a long term project, so perhaps a quick sale with disclosure is the best route?

 

[linuxgod]

The oil lookalike my transmission fluid did. Sorry to see that.

Not sure what you paid but auction could be the way to go.

Or degrease, too off the oil, and drive right over to CarMax and offload it.

 

[MissoulaMan]

Drive it.

If it didn’t make a mess, I would seriously consider that.

 

[MissoulaMan]

Your first post on this indicated you weren’t in a position for a long term project, so perhaps a quick sale with disclosure is the best route?

It’s up on the classifieds now with everything I know. Don’t really know what to ask for it as I haven’t looked into that, have always fixed issues I’m aware of before selling vehicles, and emotionally still want to keep it.

M

For Sale Thread '2008 Land Cruiser 144k miles Missoula, MT - needs an engine'

Yesterday at 2:24 PM

2008 Land Cruiser with 144183 miles and a clean title - I've only owned this for about 3 months and its taken me that long to figure out I got duped into buying one that needs an engine rebuild or replacement. I'll be as forthcoming as possible as opposed to what the past seller did to me. I'm still on the fence of whether to fix or sell but I have a busy Fall and need a vehicle more than a lengthy repair. Maybe someone wants a project and I figure that someone may be here.

See the thread where that details I figured things out: 200 Series Engine Swap Options -...

• MissoulaMan
• Replies: 2
• Forum: VDJ200 | LX570