2-2.5" AHC Lift Using King Coils & Shock Spacers (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter DirtDawg
- Start date
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The problem with stronger spring rate is that it actually make things worst when you use the AHC in heigh adjustment.
Where you maybe had an offset of 150kg or 200kg spring force between medium and high setting with the stock springs, this gap will just be bigger with HD springs.
As long as you stay on fixed height this HD springs will do great, but it won't help much if your suspension is set loaded at medium. When you will go high, you will still overload the AHC.
I see only 2 options for the rear, full air or airbag.
I am looking for the range rover P38 rear air springs, the bellows are replaceable without taking the pistons off the car, and affordable. I am trying to find the collapse and extended length of these. Interesting point is the shape of the lower piston, in V shape mean it has harder spring rate on high vs medium or low settings..at constant pressure. In our case this would be nice since we could go from medium to high without adjusting the pressure in the air spring and maintaining a very similar force, lower pressure but larger piston....
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As for air bags, i am thinking of taking 2" lifted one so they would sit nicely and "used" while on high setting, and they would be compressed a bit on medium position.
My point is to have the full lad capability on high as well as medium
Where you maybe had an offset of 150kg or 200kg spring force between medium and high setting with the stock springs, this gap will just be bigger with HD springs.
As long as you stay on fixed height this HD springs will do great, but it won't help much if your suspension is set loaded at medium. When you will go high, you will still overload the AHC.
I see only 2 options for the rear, full air or airbag.
I am looking for the range rover P38 rear air springs, the bellows are replaceable without taking the pistons off the car, and affordable. I am trying to find the collapse and extended length of these. Interesting point is the shape of the lower piston, in V shape mean it has harder spring rate on high vs medium or low settings..at constant pressure. In our case this would be nice since we could go from medium to high without adjusting the pressure in the air spring and maintaining a very similar force, lower pressure but larger piston....
.As for air bags, i am thinking of taking 2" lifted one so they would sit nicely and "used" while on high setting, and they would be compressed a bit on medium position.
My point is to have the full lad capability on high as well as medium
You don't need full load capacity on high. Accomplish your mild lift, 1.5" AHC adjustment, and operate full time in medium.
If you want more than that you need to pull and go traditional suspension IMO.
If you want more than that you need to pull and go traditional suspension IMO.
Sidenote on all of this, after the king spring install, the passenger side of my truck is 1/2 inch higher than the driver side, and I can't get it to even out. Have cycled AHC multiple times, adjusted sensors and still no luck. Stumped.
Can u explain?
Are you referencing adjusting the front sensors? I've already tried that. And from my understanding adjusting the torsion bars won't make any difference.
DirtDawg
"It'd be alot cooler if you did"
- Thread starter
- #87
Checking your cross level is fairly simple. You need to get on techstream and make sure your front L and R sensor are close to the same values. Once that's been checked or you have adjusted the sensors to be within the same range, then you need to adjust the T-bars accordingly. My ps was higher than my ds, so I loosened the passenger t-bar while tightening the driver side t-bar. I would do one or two turns at a time, then go for a drive and re measure. Slowly the sides will start to level out. I kept adjusting until my heights on both sides were the same. I hope this makes sense.
That makes sense, thank you
Has anyone watching this thread tried installing torsion bars from a non--AHC truck?
My pressures are OK, despite being on the high side, but I get very little adjustment with sensor movement. Existing torsion bars are maxed out.
My pressures are OK, despite being on the high side, but I get very little adjustment with sensor movement. Existing torsion bars are maxed out.
What are you trying to achieve? Lower front pressure? cross level ?{please search the term "cross level" posted by me for the correct FSM approach} the right ride height or all three?
Have the same issue, hoping it resolves itself after some miles. Should have checked this weekend slipped my mind.
I also need to get TS up and running so I can do the procedure DirtDawg suggested above.
Cross level was the original goal yes, but I was unable to make that happen making the changes per FSM--as I understood them. Question I'm asking is basically a general one, switching out the torsion bars (should) obviously result in that lower pressure and allow for more flexibility and adjustment. Just curious.
To set cross level all you need is a tape measure and 30mm socket; don't touch the height sensors whilst setting cross level at the risk of chasing your tail and becoming increasingly frustrated. Height sensor feedback follows the upper arm to chassis displacement and can be nulled pretty much anywhere so it's much better (per FSM and experience) to physically set the actual cross height then adjust the sensor to read 0 or as near 0 as practical at your selected N height. Adjusting cross level via sensor feedback only works if you're sensors are perfectly aligned as if it just rolled out of the factory.
Vehicle OFF and set cross level, ideally splitting the difference by lowering the high side and raising the lower side. Then adjust overall height via sensors if necessary and lastly adjust pressure with equal turns on both TBs so as to not undo the cross level you just set.
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Further detail and question.
My front pressure is 7.0, front passenger is .25 higher than front driver, slightly more than that on rear. Sitting at about 1" of rake rear to front. TS shows front sensors show to be set equally.
I'm pretty much at the top of my adjustment with existing TB.
@PADDO would you suggest backing off the front passenger TB until I achieve level? That's what I was trying to do earlier, but was trying to bring front driver up (and can't due to TB being maxed) instead of front passenger down.
1/4in difference side to side isn't too bad but you can make it better by backing off the higher side, 1 turn ~ 1/8 inch and ~0.1MPa increase. At 7.0MPa front with no effective TB adjustment left to lower your pressure you'd either need to loose a little vehicle weight, or front height (1.8MPa per inch iirc, edit: it's actually 2.2MPa per inch) or reindex. But if 7.0MPa or thereabouts works for you damping wise then you could leave well enough alone. If your front damper accumulators are original and have a few miles on them then I'd suggest you may get a better ride with lower front pressure but if your happy then that's what matters.
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Finally installed the non-AHC springs a few weeks ago.
What a difference it made.
While towing the Kimberley Kamper the system stayed in N.
And I like the less rigid ride.
What a difference it made.
While towing the Kimberley Kamper the system stayed in N.
And I like the less rigid ride.
DirtDawg, what size tires are you running with this set up?
