1kz-te engine sounds sick and sporadic odd knocking

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Well, it's been a bit of a challenge on a number of fronts ...

Crushers is busy with his build .... I am busy with building a house .... so no progress right now.

At least the pump that you sent me a couple of months ago is in Wayne's hands! Just need to organise the time to getter dun.
 
Hi guys,
A bump for a thread with very similar problem.

I have a 1KZ-TE in my 1994 KZJ78 Landcruiser Prado Auto (KZJ78W-PGT) which is in Zambia of all places.

I have had starting problems recently which my mechanic somewhat resolved by rotating the fuel injector pump (advanced) that resulted in two things:
1. more power and much better pulling - also fuel smoke from one cylinder stopped
2. check engine light (code 14) when revs are low (below ~1800) which goes out above that once the engine is warm.

I am going to take it to an injector pump specialist on Monday who has had a very quick look and believes it may be the Timing Control Valve (also my guess from the behaviour). They can take it off and diagnose for ($80). I think there will be three possible outcomes:

1. Timing Control Valve is the problem and it can be fixed. Maybe looking at $400-500 total.
2. More serious problem and whole injector needs to be reconditioned (yes they actually do this in Africa) for maximum $1800.
3. It is something completely different.

I want to drive this car from Zambia to Ethiopia which is more than 10,000Km, parts of which will be fully remote. If a fixed Injector Pump breaks in the middle of nowhere then I am in trouble. At the moment I have a few options that I would like your help deciding on:

1. I can get my pump fixed (but will wait for diagnosis).
2. I can get a second hand 1KZ-TE injector pump and have it tested before installed for ~$900. Of course they claim it is working perfectly - but I would have a backup for swapping parts.
3. I can get a manual pump built for me using new/old parts for about $600 but I have no idea what that happens when you disconnect the sensors required for the ECU. Wont the ECU be a bit confused if there is no input from multiple 'required' sensors?

So until I can work out the problem I hope you guys can help me with the pros/cons of these options.

Also, as a side note, this car is not very well suited to the extreme temperatures here and was wondering if blocking the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system would help to lower temperatures?

Cheers,
Mike
 
MikePrado said:
Hi guys,
A bump for a thread with very similar problem.

I have a 1KZ-TE in my 1994 KZJ78 Landcruiser Prado Auto (KZJ78W-PGT) which is in Zambia of all places.

I have had starting problems recently which my mechanic somewhat resolved by rotating the fuel injector pump (advanced) that resulted in two things:
1. more power and much better pulling - also fuel smoke from one cylinder stopped
2. check engine light (code 14) when revs are low (below ~1800) which goes out above that once the engine is warm.

I am going to take it to an injector pump specialist on Monday who has had a very quick look and believes it may be the Timing Control Valve (also my guess from the behaviour). They can take it off and diagnose for ($80). I think there will be three possible outcomes:

1. Timing Control Valve is the problem and it can be fixed. Maybe looking at $400-500 total.
2. More serious problem and whole injector needs to be reconditioned (yes they actually do this in Africa) for maximum $1800.
3. It is something completely different.

I want to drive this car from Zambia to Ethiopia which is more than 10,000Km, parts of which will be fully remote. If a fixed Injector Pump breaks in the middle of nowhere then I am in trouble. At the moment I have a few options that I would like your help deciding on:

1. I can get my pump fixed (but will wait for diagnosis).
2. I can get a second hand 1KZ-TE injector pump and have it tested before installed for ~$900. Of course they claim it is working perfectly - but I would have a backup for swapping parts.
3. I can get a manual pump built for me using new/old parts for about $600 but I have no idea what that happens when you disconnect the sensors required for the ECU. Wont the ECU be a bit confused if there is no input from multiple 'required' sensors?

So until I can work out the problem I hope you guys can help me with the pros/cons of these options.

Also, as a side note, this car is not very well suited to the extreme temperatures here and was wondering if blocking the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system would help to lower temperatures?

Cheers,
Mike
Click to expand...

It really deserved its own thread.
 
Hi,
I was hoping that anyone looking for information regarding 1KZ-TE injector pumps may benefit from the single thread as they are bloody expensive and any cheaper options are useful.

Cheers,
Mike
 
disagree, this is a perfect thread for his information results ...

have i ever said how much i HATE the "E" in Toyota's engines description?
 
Hi Crushers,
Do you know what would happen if you swapped the pump to a mechanical one but left the Automatic ECU in place? I would imagine we get massive errors from the ECU.

It is sort of like chopping off your arm and expecting your brain not to notice.

Hopefully can make a decision tomorrow.

Cheers,
Mike
 
i would say you are bang on the money, the tranny pulls info from the pump and associated sensors ... so i was told.

hopefully next week i will be able to swap the pumps out
but
i am not looking forward to the job.
 
MikePrado said:
Hi Crushers,
Do you know what would happen if you swapped the pump to a mechanical one but left the Automatic ECU in place? I would imagine we get massive errors from the ECU.

It is sort of like chopping off your arm and expecting your brain not to notice.

Hopefully can make a decision tomorrow.

Cheers,
Mike
Click to expand...

I have done it...
NOTE the engine ecu and auto ecu are one and the same in these trucks...
You just get the error light in the rev counter on all the time.
The auto still works..
It uses the vehicle speed and tps position for its operation.....
Need to find a way to operate tps...
I have a thread on here with all the info.
You also loose your Rev gauge as it uses a sensor on the pump.
And the manual pumps have a different sensor which pulses at a different rate.
 
Hi,
Thanks Calvin.

It seems like a manual pump, while nice, is not really a good idea because the electric one is so integrated into pretty much everything via the ECU.

Zambia just won the Africa Cup (football) so today is not a good day for a diagnostic session as a hungover mechanic might not be on his A Game.

Fingers crossed it is just one of the valves and not something much more serious (and expensive).

Cheers,
Mike
 
Hi,
Well I took it to the Diesel-Electric guys in Lusaka, Zambia and they reckon it's the timing control valve.

They are talking about having to take the whole injector pump off to get to the TCV. I think I can get a new valve but I am unsure how difficult the valve replacement is.

Perhaps you know how difficult it is?

Cheers,
Mike
 
Hi Mike,
I did a little hunting and it appears that the location of the timing control valve may be difficult to get a wrench on, although there are only two screws. Here is a picture I found from a shade-tree tear down document I have. It is really not so hard to pull the pump, although I find realigning the timing mark to be a little annoying (why no screw adjustment like an alternator)

1kz-te_Injectorpump_TimingControlValve.png


And here is a thread that shows it as well:

Injection pump...grrrr! - ToyotaDiesel.com
 
Thanks BeratE,
I am going to have a think. The company that did the testing says they will repair the full pump for between $800-$2000 depending on what is wrong inside and even offer a warranty (this is super rare in Zambia). He was saying as these pumps are the 'heart' of the car and given how many errors they seem to produce it sounds like a sensible move to check everything.

I found this quote on another forum:
Actually found the fault was not the timing control valve but the fuel pump internal pressure which was caused by a worn casing where the advance piston runs which was disrupting all of the sensors.
Redone the fuel pump and all back to normal except a hole in the pocket and a fair bit more power. The old girl pulls like a D9.
Click to expand...

My car has done 185,000km so I guess I should just suck it up and do it properly. Maybe the increased fuel efficiency from an engine running properly will offset some of the cost.

Cheers,
Mike
 
swapped out the pump, no change.
returning truck to owner ...

anyone want a KZJ78? $8500 real nice shape, runs great till it warms up.
rebuilt injectors
rebuit ECU
rebuilt pump
 
hi mike,you can swap a manual ip in, but make sure you got to have the boost comp w/it & the distributor shaft has to be 12 mm, you can get the 4m40 will do. but again you have to dial in the ip timing.you can leave all the sensors unhook, but the kick down cable has to be hookup. and you have to figured out the tec meter.
 
Ohhh :censor: and :censor:
Thats frustrating...
You say it only plays up when it gets hot?
Could it be the water temp sensor....
Its tucked up behind the oil filter in the block....
I think there is two...one for the gauge and one for the ECU...
 
could be a sensor, i tested them all and they were working.
it is time for someone else to give it a shot ... me, i want to shoot the truck.
 
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