1kz-te engine code 14-timing control/timing angle (only when going uphill in second gear) (1 Viewer)

[MIKADO Z]

That sounds like limp mode kicking in when the engine detects an irregular reading from one of its sensors, it reduces the fuelling to reduce risk of damage to the engine. Check the intake manifold is not blocked and report back.

But the Error 14 points to the Timing Control System. It doesn't sound like that to me though...

Is it possible after the timing belt was done that the IP needs to be reset on its proper timing marks?

 

[KiwiBogan]

Sorry, just saw you response about the intake delayed... I'm in the bottom of a valley here. My reception goes in and out.

Well I guess it's narrowing down to the Injector pump. Before taking it to a specialist and handing over your life savings, meticulously go through all your wiring harness in the engine bay looking for broken wires, damaged connectors and such. Even cracked shielding on a wire can cause irregular readings from the sensor. It's also plausible your ECU might still be problematic, so don't rule that out. Their are some free manuals on the web for the injector pumps which are quite informative. I'll see if I have them in my Dropbox to share...

 

[KiwiBogan]

Is it possible after the timing belt was done that the IP needs to be reset on its proper timing marks?

The injector pump from my knowledge has to be lined up to a mark on the side of the pump and the engine. The ECU auto adjusts from there. That's how mine works anyway. There's a YouTube video explaining this alignment if you search for 1kz-te timing or something like that.

 

[MIKADO Z]

The injector pump from my knowledge has to be lined up to a mark on the side of the pump and the engine. The ECU auto adjusts from there. That's how mine works anyway. There's a YouTube video explaining this alignment if you search for 1kz-te timing or something like that.

Heres a link to my 1KZ injector pump folder. Heaps of useful stuff in there including manuals for the different pumps

Thanks i will take a look whenni get a chance!

 

[MIKADO Z]

The injector pump from my knowledge has to be lined up to a mark on the side of the pump and the engine. The ECU auto adjusts from there. That's how mine works anyway. There's a YouTube video explaining this alignment if you search for 1kz-te timing or something like that.

Heres a link to my 1KZ injector pump folder. Heaps of useful stuff in there including manuals for the different pumps

Ok - so your post back a few - you mentioned limp mode.I Googled it for the 1kz limp mode - and one of the Australian Prado forums popped up a thread with multiple responses listing the exact same symptoms .It turns out it was the timing control solenoid which is mounted on the bottom of the fuel pump .$209 later had the part from partsouq.com and after installing it all problems solved. She runs like I have a new engine .I've been chasing this over a year and finally I replaced something that actually solved the problem .Gotta thank you for mentioning limp mode as that opened up a whole different search .

now I have been hitting the trails several times with my Prado and absolutely happy with the outcome!!!For anyone else that is having this problem - I removed the tire and splash guard and had access to changing out the sensor with out removing the fuel pump.Was a pain the arse to remove and get the back bolt in - was a struggle but got it done.Had to remove the fuel pump bracket that blocked removal of the solenoid Don't forget to remove the old o-ring and putthe new one in.

 

[KiwiBogan]

Ok - so your post back a few - you mentioned limp mode.I Google it for the 1kz and one of the Australian Prado forums popped up a thread with multiple responses listing the exact same symptoms .It turns out it was the timing control solenoid which is mounted on the bottom of the fuel pump .$209 later had the part from partsouq.com and after installing it all problems solved. She runs like I have a new engine .I've been chasing this over a year and finally I replaced something that actually solved the problem .Gotta thank you for mentioning limp mode as that opened up a different search and found theView attachment 3359139View attachment 3359140View attachment 3359141ow I have been hitting the trails several times with my Prado and absolutely happy with the outcome!!!For anyone else that is having this problem - I removed the tire and rubber splash guard and had access to changing out the sensor with out remov8ng the fuel pump.Was a pain the arse to remove and get the back bolt in

Fantastic outcome mate! Glad I was able to help and thanks for sharing the solution. Happy travels!

 

[veiloctane]

Fantastic outcome mate! Glad I was able to help and thanks for sharing the solution. Happy travels!

woah this brings back memories had one of these go bad on me too on a 1kz-te in our Granvia Van

there's also a common issue with the Spil control valve on the 1kz-te

 

[MIKADO Z]

woah this brings back memories had one of these go bad on me too on a 1kz-te in our Granvia Van

there's also a common issue with the Spil control valve on the 1kz-te

This was such a happy day after I installed it.I spent alot of time and money replacing things,parts,rebuild of the ecu chasing my tail for a year and this was the holy grail to back on the road again!!!!

 

[veiloctane]

This was such a happy day after I installed it.I spent alot of time and money replacing things,parts,rebuild of the ecu chasing my tail for a year and this was the holy grail to back on the road again!!!!

glad you figured it out im not sure if you have room for the Toyota factory intercoler its liquid to air intercooler. would be a pretty cool upgrade

 

[alexbnk]

So when i first start her the check engine light stays off til it warms up after a minute .If I rev the engine 3 times the light will go off for maybe 30 second s - then it comes back on.I can hear the turbo spool up - i have power til the rpms hit 2000 - 2200 rpms then then light comes on and half the power .So before the light comes back on whenni take off from a stop - i get to about 2200 rpm's and the light comes on and no power to get to much beyond thatbif i am on a flat road - she will creep up to 55mph or even 65 mph

Exactly my situation , after going over EVERTYTHING possible ... any update ?

 

[MIKADO Z]

Exactly my situation , after going over EVERTYTHING possible ... any update ?

Yes I cured the problem after a year of my Prado sitting in my driveway.I was given alot of expensive wrong advice ,had my ecu rebuilt ,over 1k on new oem fuel injectors ,and some other various fixes that didn't change anything .I googled Australian Prado forums and the first one that came up (after a year of bad forum advice) there was a thread with a whole bunch of responses describing exactly the same symptoms.The engine going into limp mode when hitting a hill and also when getting on a highway ramp accelerating and then at 3rd gear losing power and boost -
It turns out that it's the timing control solenoid at the bottom of the fuel pump.I think I found it for around $206 -
It's 2 cap screws but the fuel pump bracket is in the way of getting the second bolt - I cut and shortened an L shape Allen key so I could get behind the bracket with out removing the fuel pump.
Once I switched this out - I swear it was like a new engine - I released the kraken!
Look up Prado Point - this has some of the best advice,on repairing your kzj Prado- and for upgrades,downloadable manuals et cetra - engine code 14 let me know how it goes

 

[alexbnk]

Yes I cured the problem after a year of my Prado sitting in my driveway.I was given alot of expensive wrong advice ,had my ecu rebuilt ,over 1k on new oem fuel injectors ,and some other various fixes that didn't change anything .I googled Australian Prado forums and the first one that came up (after a year of bad forum advice) there was a thread with a whole bunch of responses describing exactly the same symptoms.The engine going into limp mode when hitting a hill and also when getting on a highway ramp accelerating and then at 3rd gear losing power and boost -
It turns out that it's the timing control solenoid at the bottom of the fuel pump.I think I found it for around $206 -
It's 2 cap screws but the fuel pump bracket is in the way of getting the second bolt - I cut and shortened an L shape Allen key so I could get behind the bracket with out removing the fuel pump.
Once I switched this out - I swear it was like a new engine - I released the kraken!
Look up Prado Point - this has some of the best advice,on repairing your kzj Prado- and for upgrades,downloadable manuals et cetra - engine code 14 let me know how it goesView attachment 3757593View attachment 3757594

THANKS SO MUCH !!!
I actually have a spare one from a second pump i bought, it ticks when voltage applied (the spare, will try to apply directly to the one on the pump to check maybe it's stuck) .... runnning to check it NOW.
Will update soon.
Thanks again !

 

[alexbnk]

Could not replace the TCV with the pump in the car, there's actually decent room but the bolts are tight as hell and need to be tapped with a hammer while turned otherwise i will destroy the allen head ...

- I've checked the TCV with direct voltage from the batt. and it ticks
- Revved the engine and fed the TCV 12V directly , it made a change in the engine tone and rpm , meaning it works when brutally constantly actuvated, unlike the ECU pulses ...
- Connected the additional TCV to the connector while engine running and felt the pulsation generated by the ECU
- Drove the car and it's somewhat less slugish

 

[alexbnk]

ב״ה
Happy Update : Thanks God , found the problem !

I bought my KZJ95 3 years ago , it was very slugish, barely moving and then i made a huge mistake to add (too much) diesel to the oil to flush it ... self inflicting a spun balancer bearing so i had to take it all apart and delete them...
Checked compression and it was like new so just replaced all the bearings on the way.
Turbo housing was cracked so i got a Mamba housing and a decent enough cartrige
Opened the IP and found a broken plunger spring , cleand, replaced and reassembled
Got new Denso injector nozzles, put everything back and no start (for about 8 months) checked everything possible, thinking it was me again messed up somewhere on the way ...
After giving up and strugling for too long the take the IP out with radiator and condensor in, sent it along with the injectors to a rebuild shop... the guy asked me : "What the heck Issuzu injectors are doing in your car , of course it does not start cause you put Toyota nozzles in Issuzu holders..." i was amazed again but little i knew back then that somewhen, a way to creative shop also drilled the return valve fuel orifice from about 0.3mm to around 2.5mm .... probably to relief the higher pressure to match the alltered injectors (just a guess)

So this last fact is what i found out today 26/7/5785 (29/10/24) after almost two years of agony and endless sessions of trial and error, testing and watching all the Pakistan, Hindu and Russian videos with autotranslation .

Comparing the return valve with a spare revealed the difference right away, swapped it and pure happiness happened, revving it up suddenly sounded very different and it was fast and joyful as never before.

Driving it was amazing for the first time and the term Mighty 90 finally makes sence... had no idea

 

[MIKADO Z]

ב״ה
Happy Update : Thanks God , found

the problem !

I bought my KZJ95 3 years ago , it was very slugish, barely moving and then i made a huge mistake to add (too much) diesel to the oil to flush it ... self inflicting a spun balancer bearing so i had to take it all apart and delete them...
Checked compression and it was like new so just replaced all the bearings on the way.
Turbo housing was cracked so i got a Mamba housing and a decent enough cartrige
Opened the IP and found a broken plunger spring , cleand, replaced and reassembled
Got new Denso injector nozzles, put everything back and no start (for about 8 months) checked everything possible, thinking it was me again messed up somewhere on the way ...
After giving up and strugling for too long the take the IP out with radiator and condensor in, sent it along with the injectors to a rebuild shop... the guy asked me : "What the heck Issuzu injectors are doing in your car , of course it does not start cause you put Toyota nozzles in Issuzu holders..." i was amazed again but little i knew back then that somewhen, a way to creative shop also drilled the return valve fuel orifice from about 0.3mm to around 2.5mm .... probably to relief the higher pressure to match the alltered injectors (just a guess)

So this last fact is what i found out today 26/7/5785 (29/10/24) after almost two years of agony and endless sessions of trial and error, testing and watching all the Pakistan, Hindu and Russian videos with autotranslation .

Comparing the return valve with a spare revealed the difference right away, swapped it and pure happiness happened, revving it up suddenly sounded very different and it was fast and joyful as never before.

Driving it was amazing for the first time and the term Mighty 90 finally makes sence... had no idea

Glad you finally found the problem - I have been using my Prado as my daily now since fixing it.It is such a pleasure to drive on regular roads and off road .